Adam

I second that definitely get a brand new chain and sprocket set they will last much longer if they're all new.

Did you put the right oil in? Did you do the sump plug up properly? I assume the problem has started since the oil change so I'd be inclined to check it first and maybe even change the oil again. Other things to check would be the chain tension and clutch free play.

I never thought about just taking the chain off the sprocket, that'll save me a few minutes and a lot of hassle! As they say you learn something new everyday, which is why I love this forum as I'm learning all the time from it

A set of waterproofs under your seat would be much more effective.

Easy peasy put it up on the stand and loosen the nut and bolt either side of the wheel this is the spindle, don't remove it completely just yet. Next you need to slacken the chain which you should be able to do by pushing the rear wheel towards the bike however if that doesn't work loosen the chain tensioners either end of the swingarm, they look like a piece of threaded rod with two nuts on each one. Next you'll need to split the chain, this could either be held with a split link or riveted together. I've only ever done a split link so let's assume that's what you have. Whilst looking at the chain spin the wheel slowly until you find some thing like this in the video here "> (someone embed it pretty please? ) and do what they do to split the chain. Once the chain is out the way hold the wheel with one hand and remove the spindle, the wheel should come free fairly easily if it doesn't give it a gentle wiggle to free it from the brake caliper and you're done Follow those steps backwards to put it back on and tension your chain before doing the spindle up tightly. Good luck!

I have an oxford tail pack I picked up on gumtree for tenner, however I've used the bungee technique and I just wrapped the bungees all the way round the tail and joined them underneath as I have no anchor points, worked a treat.

Well to make it more confusing that bus lane is also the lane to turn left at the lights so most cars just use it anyway if they're turning left. Rode past the 5-0 plenty of times and not had any trouble but I guess if they're having a bad day they might stop me. And Erm nob of the day is me for not adding any more nobs to the nob of the day thread but still posting on it. Nob!

It would and does. The two lanes that go straight on, the one on the left turns into a bus lane so most people try and get in the right lane, which is why I use the left hand lane. So yes I ride in the bus lane but if I get stopped there's a petrol station before the lights so I was popping in there

Well for second day in a row I was cut up at the same roundabout by some idiot drivers. Leading up to the round about it's 2 lanes, and it splits into 3 one to go left one to go straight and one to go straight and right. I was going straight in the middle lane and both times the cars cut across from the right lane and nearly took me out (I was along side first time and with my front wheel at the rear of their bumper second time) the road continues as 2 lanes if you go straight so there's no reason for them to cut accord to the middle lane, luckily one of us was paying attention! Nobs!

Congrats on the CBT! Where abouts in Norfolk are you?

Yes check if you have any pads left, if you do it could be something stuck between pad and disc. Just a case of taking the pads off and checking 10 minute job

But if it's faulty it might not function properly. What about the neutral light thingy?

Why not get a 12v socket with an inline fuse and switch then you can use it for anything with a usb cable. And they're a lot cheaper

Probably can't mate, they're usually a sealed unit if it's electric for obvious reasons. Just wiggle the connection to the speedo unit and unplug it and give it a good spray with some wd40

You usually have to take the front wheel off to get to the speedo sensor but first of all I'd check the connection behind the speedo unit itself, should be held on by a few bolts. If you're not sure which cable it is just trace it back.

I always found with my NSR it didn't like a lot of revs when pulling away just release the clutch and roll the throttle gently. If I rev'd the nuts of her she'd just bog down for a few seconds so give that a go might help, also if the clutch isn't adjusted properly as you've mentioned it won't help.

Trace the cable back to the carb and there should be an adjuster with two nuts.

i give up with this camera if anyone wants to buy it make me an offer.

Best thing to do is when the bike is cool feel around the tank and see if you can feel any moisture, then follow the fuel hose and check for any splits etc and keep following it back to the exhaust. Is your bike carbed or FI? You won't see a small leak as the petrol will evaporate especially in the hot weather we've had which is why you may not have noticed anything when you've moved the bike.

Yeah that does describe it to a T Alex, I was hoping it wouldn't be the disc

Well the wd40 like product wouldn't have affected it but maybe the polish did? If it starts fine now I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Only at slower speeds exactly as Ricky has said..

I noticed the other day when I pull my front brake it doesn't engage smoothly, the best way to describe how it feels is it's like a kangaroo hopping. I did notice the other day when I had the wheel off that the pistons in the caliper weren't pushed out equally so do they need a rebuild? If so is it an easy job to do? Cheers

Faulty killswitch or side stand switch?