Adam

Lean your bike up against a wall so the handle bar stops it tipping then do whatever you need to do with the stand

Whilst you've got your plug out stick your thumb over the hole and start the bike it should have enough compression to push your thumb off if not then that's probably your problem. Well you'd be riding on more surface area of the tyre so it would require more power to get the wheel turning, if they're low it's worth doing anyway.

Did you check tyre pressures? If not take it up the garage an pay 50p to use the air machine then you'll know they're (almost) correct. Now this might be/sound stupid but how steep is the hill? I'm thinking as you mentioned it seems better with fresh fuel that there might not be enough in the tank when you're going up the hill to feed the bike, because of it being liquid it will naturally slosh to the back of the tank. I could be completely wrong and I don't have any idea what your bike looks like but I thought I'd throw it out there.

Don't forget the YZF shares the same engine as the WR so have a look at them as well might be a cheaper one.

Looking good Allan, will definitely pop round next time I'm down and see how you're getting on.

On my old NSR I used to start her on the choke then flick it off and leave her to idle, however if I tried to rev the bike it would cut out. Might sound stupid but have you left the bike to warm up properly before revving it? Also I'd check the fuel tap (if it has one) and the inline fuel filter.

The only alarm/immobilisers that will add any value are the thatcham approved ones that will set you back £££'s for a decent one that any insurance company will recognise. And to be honest any professional thief will have the alarm off the bike before it makes a noise. Best deterrent is as said above a big chunky chain and padlock and a disk lock, the idea being to make it as difficult as possible to steal.

Mines the same with or without there vents just have to ride with it open and freeze my face off, can't see much out my visor anyway because it's filthy!!

My award goes to the Mercedes SL200 driver who I followed for about 10 minutes before following them into a housing estate, they pulled over to the kerb on the right hand side of the road (so the wrong side) so I went to ride along on my way only for the old biddy to cut right across my path no indicators or anything and pull into a drive!!!! Grrrrrr

Put a coat on or move the project into the lounge..

I would say you've already identified the problem, if your chain and sprockets need changing then do it. The chain won't run smoothly with the sprockets if they're both worn down, look at your sprockets and see what the teeth look like, if they look like sharks teeth so small and pointy you need to change them. Also check your chain tension.

Just to clarify what maccy said, when the bike is running it should be about 12.5v not dropping rapidly a little give or take is okay, with everything turned off it should read 13v if it's any lower put the battery on charge and check it in the morning ( leave the battery for an hour or so after charging before checking the voltage). And whilst you're at it give your connections a good clean with some wd40 and sandpaper if required the damn weather can cause havock with electrics! Good luck and let us know how you get on.

I don't have a clue when it comes to gearbox's but I find on my bike if the chain isn't tensioned properly the gears aren't smooth so might be worth a check before you try anything else?

It's probably the same ghost that keeps messing with nman's bike!

That is what I was getting at.

Try opening the fuel tank before starting the bike, the breather could get blocked from the rain creating a vacuum. I had a similar problem with my bike, I just make sure it's covered

I just push my bike forward clean and lube, push it forward a bit more and repeat the process until it's all done. Also did you check your chain tension? I learnt the hard way because I didn't check mine....

Will it bump start? If it does then you know it's a problem with your wiring or starting system. You might have knackered the battery using jump leads, car batteries have a different voltage. As said above do check for any wiring around the generator to make sure you didn't pull any wires out. And make sure it's in neutral

Try bending the brake lever back, it shouldn't be too difficult. If you can't do it just order a new one, the same with your front brake lever. Replace the indicator. Bar ends shouldn't be a problem as long as they won't injure someone if they caught themselves on it. The fairing you can't really do much about other than rubbing it down and respraying. eBay will be your best bet for parts, just get second hand ones. I don't really know much about engines but I'm sure someone that does will be able to help. Did you send Fozzie a message? He knows those bikes inside out and has rebuilt engines on them.

Tell us what's wrong and we'll help you fix it yourself, that way you'll learn how to do maintenance and repairs yourself saving you £££'s worth of mechanic fees.

Fozzie is in the London area maybe he could help. Is it something to do with your bike, if so maybe we could help?

Just a quick review of my current bike, an NSR. It's an 02 plate but production was stopped in 01 so any bikes later than this date just weren't registered until the year in question. My bike is an Italian import so running at full power, however I believe it has been restricted to comply with UK licensing laws when riding on a CBT. The bike itself gives you a lot more confidence being bigger than most other 125's, for those who haven't seen one it more like the size of a YZF R125. This means it's planted more to the ground, and can be lent into corners with more confidence. The NSR is the older brother of the CBR the main difference being the size and the engines, the CBR a 4 stroke and the NSR a 2 Stroke. What that means is the NSR is all revs burning petrol and oil within the engine itself, this means you have to keep it topped up with 2 stroke oil otherwise you risk blowing up the engine. The ride itself is awesome with a powerband in every gear it flies for a 125 easily beating almost any 125 or car from the lights, getting up to 60 takes under 10 seconds I don't know the exact figures but who cares, when you're riding it feels quick. Top speed I've had out of it was 80mph (on a private road, of course..) which leads me to believe it's restricted as people claim to get around 110mph derestricted. 80mph is fast enough for me and is more than most 4 strokes will do revving the nuts off them. However, with speed and revs comes a price, in the form of petrol and decent 2 stroke oil, a full tank will set you back on average £10 and the same for decent oil roughly. Milleage wise it's not the best but that's because of all the revs which is normal for a 2 stroke. All in all if you want a bike to mess around on and have a massive grin on your face the whole time you're riding then this is te bike for you, you'll be the envy of all your mates on their peds and 4 strokes. As a commuter bike it's not so good due to the high revs needed, especially when in traffic you can't filter past. Out of 10 I'd give the bike a 7, really fun but could be more economical.

So, rebuild a bike, take lots of pictures, take them into Halfords and say;- This is what I do for a living, I don't have any qualifications as I was taught by the best, my late father. Now, slowly start to well up and sniffle slightly whilst remembering the good old days you spent with your late father working on bikes. Proceed to burst into tears sobbing into the assistants shoulder, embrace them and tell them it's the one thing you had in common with your father, and without it you'd be jobless, which in turn would mean you'd lose your business, family home, car, bikes, and any fond memories of your late father. Finally exit the store with your new Halfords discount card. Joking aside I rarely go there it's just too expensive and the bike range is little to none.

just spray all the electrics it won't harm them even the battery terminals, and all connections, and whilst you're at it check your earth connections they tend to corrode just let it dry for 5 minutes if you're worried. Reg/Rec is the charging system on your bike, so when the engine is running it charges the battery, which it sounds like is what your bike isn't doing. Let us know how you get on.

It's a lexmoto.. But that aside providing everything worked fine before try spraying all your connections etc with WD40 this will drive out the water.