hawkeye

If you fit a bigger tyre you will need to run a slightly reduced pressure, don't make big changes, try 5psi less for a start. I had a Harley about ten years ago and customised it, i changed the front and rear wheels and tyres but kept the same pressure for the std tyres. The ride was bloody awful, hard, bike bounced about and just a horrible ride. I had to drop 10psi on my bike to get a ride i was used to. Don't forget as you ride the tyres will heat up, in doing so the pressure rises.

As others have said be careful selling it on. In their day Tritons were the thing to have, Norton featherbed frame and a Triumph engine, usually a 650 Bonny engine everyone wanted one. Today they are still a thing to have today. Condition does matter but even real basket case will fetch a fair amount. Your into bikes yourself with the Harleys, loved everyone of mine but old age caught up with me. Not sure about the ER5, i have one as well and it was a right PITA. Ride safe.

This is the tool https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M2CAOCG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Basically a chuck that tightens on the the stud going anticlockwise, the jaws have grips so it really bites into the stud. Used with an air gun it works perfectly.

Well six months later the engine has been rebuilt. I had real trouble getting the corroded bolt out, i had to get a guy to come and do it for me (goes against the grain) He had a really great tool to do this, and now so do I. Have not run it yet as there are other things i need, new plugs, check carb balance, fit correct fuses, household type fitted. Just hope there are no leaks now.

There not much to take a picture of at the moment, just a lot of bits lol. Found out the toll did not break. Still really struggling to get the last one out.

Just a quick update on the studs, i have one out thanks to the 'socket' type stud extractor, it has rollers inside and locks onto the stud. Unfortunately it broke on the second stud, my fault for buying a cheap tool. I now have to grind the bloody thing off.

Good to hear, electrics can be a PITA sometimes.

Removed the barrels at last, had to get a bit brutal with a small crowbar but they came off ok. Barrels are well within limits at .04mm at top, middle and bottom. Rings are worn, there should be gaps should be 0.006 to 0.014, mine are 0.020 thou Sorry for the mix of mm and imperial.

Had bikes for many years (with a family lay off) Bikes i have had are three Hondas 900 DOHC, three Harleys and an assortment of other Hondas, Yamahas and the a 600 Bandit. Sold my Bandit and got the Honda. It is in quite good condition for a 1981 bike and had a few small things i wanted to do. Replace little bits that were missing, new chain and sprockets, and a rear tyre. I have had the bike for about six months and thought it was a bit under powered and not so good at starting from cold, so did a compression test which came back at 125 psi on both cylinders. So i put a little oil into each plug hole put the plugs back and did another test, this came back at 180 PSI. So blowby, started to strip the top end of the engine down and two of the cylinder heads bolts would not undo, by this i mean the threads are corroded into the crank cases. I drilled the heads off the bolts (very carefully) and got the head off. I then found i could not move the barrell's, they are well and truly stuck at the gasket. Have used a lump of wood as a drift and a club hammer and it still stuck. I have glued a piece of hardwood onto the end of the drift and will be giving it a clout tomorrow. My mate will also help as i will be putting a 3ft length of wood into the barrel with pistons at BDC and he will give it a sideways leverage. And i'm 74 if anyone is wondering AKA an ol git!!! To be continued

Probably a bad, just get a length of wire, touch it to the socket where the bulb is then on the earth terminal on the battery. Also make sure all the bulbs are the same wattage.

Just a quick update, using the the 50/50 mix did not help much. The bike does start if left for three to four days but the compression rato is no better. Top end will have to come off. remove engine from frame, drill the heads off the bolts. Remove head and barrels allowing me to get the the base of the two stuck bolts. Will heat crank cases and use my cam stud extractor, but that in the new year. Happy Christmas tom everyone.

I remember my first ride after taking my test, that was around 1965. I managed to lose the examiner somehow, but passed. You ride safe mate

Well i have used a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Reddex, i have done it for two days and have to say that it now start first stab on the button. Ran the bike till it was hot then put it away to cool down. Will do another day then leave for a week (this was when it got hard to start) and do a compression test. More to follow later/

Some number plates are just plain stupid and your asking for a tap on the shoulder from uncle Bill. However depending on the age of the bike some number plates can be made a bit smaller, you have to look on the .gov site to find out. I had a Harley FXR and that could have a smaller number plate. You then have to get someone to make the plate for you.

I will look into these for sure, i have also been told Acetone is goods as it break down varnish (millions of women use it lol) Certainly given me some things to try cheers