Jerry1111

My XJ6 has a candle light usefulness in the dark. My neighbour is thinking about upgrading his VFR. My plan is to take the VFR for a test ride after dark and year both business back-to-back. If that works then I'll have a spare XJ6, if that doesn't cut riding in the dark then I dunno, use flares?

Spot on! Wooden ships without radios didn't rust! It's only these new fangled radio things that make all ships rust...

Leave the boat with full tank - ethanol won't have any air to suck moisture out of. I always put double dose and leave for winter with full tank. Not had any problems. For cars that stuff would be 5x cheaper. Cars don't make holes in the water that need filling with cash

maps? Is that an app? Yep, it's "gimme some fun factor" app! Doesn't compile without it any longer...

Just get proper clothing and enjoy all year round, it doesn't get *too* cold in here - can't see any snow anywhere!

Bloody accountants! Is it really too expensive to have a decent layer of zinc everywhere? I'm not asking for a stainless steel bike, I may not like the weight, but give me at least zinc! I can't be cleaning the bike every day, or I'll end up sleeping in the garage courtesy of SWMBO. Is it going to work to take off fairings and spray this gunk everywhere on metalwork, then not wash until end of winter?

Also most costly one - where do I get the time, especially when the days are short and beer gets opened earlier and earlier in the evening

There are two problems to good soldering in this context, efficiency of heat transfer (which means s clean tip with nice shiny layer of tin) and power. Why power? If you're soldering two long wires, then what you're doing is trying to heat up two really good heatsinks to more than 200deg C. You won't do it with a cheap 30W soldering iron, because by the time everything is warmed up - all of the flux will be burnt and the tin oxidised. Also try to put the tip lengthwise (and not at the right angle to the wires) to maximize contact area and heat transfer. Been doing that for 30 years... And now I feel old!

Ok, so what I'm hearing is that I should get myself an air compressor and a spray gun to mist everything in ACF. What I have is a manual "spray bottle" - which squirts a thin jet of ACF, which then results in everything dripping onto the floor. Need to get approval for investment, won't be easy!

Started to clean my bike today and that got me thinking... I understand that the default choice in the motorbiking world for rust/salt/weather protection is a liberal application of ACF50. Has anyone tried products from marine environment? I'm thinking here something like Quiksilver Corrosion Guard spray and 3-in-1 grease. That keeps rust away from my outboards and only gets applied once/twice per year - and this stuff is in salt water all the time. Especially Corrosion Guard - it's such an easy application as a spray, when compared to"rubbing in" ACF50 with a cloth.

Well done! MOD2 will be just a pleasant ride

There's one thing I'll remember for a long time from my DAS. Turning right on a junction, very slowly, something felt strange and suddenly I'm looking at a kerb on the left thinking "there's no chance I'm not hitting that kerb, sh@t" and my mind sort of froze. Thankfully I had a great instructor and he snapped me back into living by shouting into the intercom "look up, look up!!!" and it worked. I was less than half a second from meeting a foot high kerb. Can't that explain going wide? Was it a case of looking up at where you want to go that corrected it? Yes, it was! As soon as I looked to where I needed to go, the bike followed as by magic The interesting thing is that as long as I was looking at that kerb, I just couldn't get the bike to turn away from it - as if it was on rails. I knew about target fixation from reading about it, but that was really a surreal experience - target fixation really works! After a year, I still remember Matt's voice "look up, LOOK UP!!".

There's one thing I'll remember for a long time from my DAS. Turning right on a junction, very slowly, something felt strange and suddenly I'm looking at a kerb on the left thinking "there's no chance I'm not hitting that kerb, sh@t" and my mind sort of froze. Thankfully I had a great instructor and he snapped me back into living by shouting into the intercom "look up, look up!!!" and it worked. I was less than half a second from meeting a foot high kerb. Can't that explain going wide?

Visited SBS, changed boots to a better fit. The gear lever is adjusted. Initially I thought I'll run out of adjustable range, but turns out this is very sensitive. Test ride tomorrow! Hopefully the biggest problem will be fine tuning that gear lever for a perfect match with new boots

Ordered two sets of boots (from SBS, used the link!). One set is too narrow so it will come back. The second set (TCX Baja) is a comfy fit, but... I can't change the frigging gear! No matter what I'm trying to do, I can barely fit the boot under the shift lever to shift up - it would help if I had another ankle! It's time to stop using my walking boots for riding, but WTF is wrong with these TCXs? How do you all deal with that? Also, should the fit on the foot be tight, loose or what? These are my first motorcycle boots.

Packtalk - a dual set was one of the best purchases. No problems, just works. Sportsbikeshop - one of the best places to spend your money.

A very nice box with two Packtalk Bolds have arrived a few days ago. Nice set of accessories to mount everything, one unit already mounted in my helmet (Nolan 100-5) and the audio quality is brilliant; another unit will be soon mounted as well. My main gripe so far is that I can't get the voice commands to work at all. When testing if they're working (by playing a youtube video to the mike) it picks up the commands, but in Cardo's videos this is probably being said by the guy that lent his voice to the speech recognition team Also "OK Google" only worked two or three times...

Same with me - primarily for the pillion, until I get SWMBO to: a) get the helmet b) get on the pillion c) get addicted d) get her own bike Until all of these points are done, the intercom is for me to talk with my son on our boys' rides One thing I'm sure about - I'm not wasting time buying twice. Currently deciding between Packtalk Bold (which I've used during my DAS - it was brilliant, but has boom mike) and UClear - which doesn't have book mike, but their beamforming is all that you can achieve with only 2 mikes, and there are some reports that you get feedback sound when talking with pillion - not unexpected. If primary reason was to talk with another bike then I'd have already bought UClear, but because for (at least) another 6 months primary task is to talk with pillion, then I'm still undecided. TBH all of the decent sets have similar prices. I'm not going to set myself up for regrets by trying to save £50 on a £400 purchase - it's a wrong way to save 10%.

you get a boom mic and a corded mic with a packtalk OK, by now I get that Packtalk is dogs bollocks - fair enough, no point buying twice. Having had some time with it, I'd like to make it work for me. I've gone through at least a dozen of reviews and I'm sick and tired of everyone talking about nothing useful and everyone onanizing about the theory of DMC - noone could test it because the dealer didn't give them enough free toys for the test - but I don't care about that. From what I could see, the recommended way to install Packtalk in a flip-up helmet is to use their "hybrid" (mounted on a boom) mike and position it where your mouth is. That means that when I flip the lid up, then the mike will be still in front of me - it won't go up together with the lid. Has anyone successfully mounted the corded mike in a flip-up helmet? I want it mounted in a way that when I lift the front up, then the mike is not in front of me - it can either be on the side (like in UClear) or can go up with the lid.

Had Packtalk in school - worked without a single glitch. What I'm really thinking about is UClear - I really like the boomfree mike. In fact during my DAS I was thinking about modifying these Packtalks and hiding the mikes somewhere in the front.

Great, thanks all! In that case I'll start to prepare myself mentally for a splash for a Sena kit. No point in buying it twice

Thinking about buying a Bluetooth headset (mainly for phone's satnav and for comms). Are motorcycle headsets loud enough to be heard with earplugs in?

Got a scare of my life earlier on today. I braked not to hit a car with a traffic-joining muppet inside, and from the corner of my eye I've seen something super-close behind me. For a split second I thought I'm about to be smashed from behind by a vehicle I've not registered earlier, and then realized I'm being attacked in my mirrors by my top box

Problem solved, V47 mounted Annoying thing is that I can't test drive it yet. Freezing fog today so I don't want to do anything stupid.

OK, thanks. So it looks that Givi rack is mounted underneath everything, and Shad rack is mounted instead of grab handles. I couldn't quite get Givi instructions, but see it now. First bike, first top box, want to buy the right one