Jump to content

mealexme

Registered users
  • Posts

    2,882
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mealexme

  1. I dont think velcro would work as there isn't much surface area for it to hold onto, plus if/when the LED is removed, the velcro will be left behind. The idea is for the LED to be a temporary fix to fill the hole that a previous owner drilled into the fairing. I'll look into the silicon rubber. Thanks tango
  2. long story short, I need some way of attaching plastic to plastic. Its an LED in a housing which used to clip into the fairing (I think it used to be connected to an alarm system at some point). The LED and housing had to be filed down to make room fro a modification to the bike and the clip on the housing has been sanded off so now I need a non-permanent way of attaching it to the bike. Anyone got any ideas?
  3. well, that sucks. Thanks anyway, I'll have another look later
  4. I was doing a bit of maintenance today and was having a look at the brake pads. They are about 1mm thick (rear), so I presume they will need replacing in the near future. The problem is, they don't have any info on them. At very least I was expecting to see a company name on the back, but more importantly, I don't know what type of pads they are. In the past, when replacing pads I seem to have always got the wrong ones for me, even after going on peoples recommendations. They either don't seem responsive or lock up the wheels with little pressure, so I've decided to replace these ones like for like as they are the best I have ever had. Is there any way of telling what type they are? ie from the colour of the pads? I know different pads are made from different things, so there must be some differences in the looks? Many thanks
  5. same. It took me years to do this though as I always used to cover the brakes and gears
  6. ^ +1 it won't hurt to check the fuse, its a nice simple job. Do the easy ones first and work your way up to the more complex or time consuming ones. As Chris said, its unlikely for both high and low beam bulbs (or filaments if its a dual filament bulb) to blow at once. As for bulb choices, I can vouch for osams, they are nice and bright! xeon's are illegal on motorcycles
  7. aaaah, I hate living in someone elses house sometimes. On the back of the chair, in the sink and in the shower are all out of the question. So is one of those awesome bike tent things
  8. *when its NOT on the bike, smart asses! I only ask because when its dripping wet, you cant store it outside because the inside will get wet and you cant leave it in the house unless you want to come home to a nice big puddle... So what do you do with it?
  9. ps, why is this the third time this thread has been revived? Haha
  10. Its a thread about counter steering.... LOCK IT STU, LOCK IT NOOOOOWWWW!!!!!!!!!
  11. mealexme

    scooter not working

    yea, chinese scooters are known for not liking the rain. The issue does sound like a reg/rec problem though. The battery sounds like its holding its charge, its just not being re-charged. As Adam suggested, it might be worth spraying with WD-40 encase there is water somewhere disrupting the connection to the reg/rec 14 miles though is a bit specific haha.
  12. with above really. If you want it for looks, you could try the gold chain by DID, but it doesnt add anything performance wise. It also makes the bike look worse in some cases as I found out with my silver bandit. A gold chain with a black bike looks awesome, a gold chain with a silver bike just makes it look like its rusting up because there is no contrasting colours. Bare that in mind if you are thinking about getting the gold one. Renthal are good sprockets, you can also get these in different colours if you want. Black sprockets with a gold chain does look good though. To be honest though, unless you are racing or stunting, OEM will be just fine. Aftermarket stuff is really made for people who either need lightweight sprockets, stronger ones or different teeth sizes. If you are just using your bike the same way an average rider would, OEM spec will be fine. OEM can be a bit harder to track down though if you don't go through the dealers. If you do go through the dealers you MAY end up paying over the odds for them, depending on the dealer. Its worth ringing nd asking if they can get you some first though, just to compare prices
  13. mealexme

    Burning oil???

    metal shaving = bad tiny specs of metal in the oil = normal, especially if it doesn't have an oil change often. But these should be REALLY small particles in the oil
  14. white smoke I believe is water vapor. Two things with this: One - all vehicle get white smoke on start up in the cold weather. Its condensation etc evaporating as everything warms up. Two - after a few minutes it should stop. If it doesn't, have a close look at the exhaust (from the side). There should be an inch or so gap between the exhaust and smoke. This is infact water droplets being created in the air behind the exhaust and is not coming from the exhaust itself. Black smoke is smoke rather than vapor. It can be cause by a bad air/fuel mixture Blue smoke is oil being burned - then you are in for a headache. My bandit use to throw out a load of white smoke when I revved it shortly after I started it up. Try going for a ride of ten minutes or so, then see if the symptoms are the same. I think a few of them (possibly even the backfiring) could be caused by the bike not being warm enough. - thats just going off the issues I had from riding the bandit hard when it was cold (which was pretty much every day on the way to work. I used to get a lovely backfire under a particular bridge)
  15. this reminds me, I need to fit my old scottoiler to my new bike. Job for the weekend me thinks
  16. mealexme

    Rust

    oooh, a chrome exhaust? Thats annoying. Most things will scratch. Try Kurust. Follow the instructions but instead of using wire wool, press hard with a cloth. Tin foil will work also, as tiggie said. I cannot remember if this scratches chrome or not though, so give it a go somewhere thats not noticeable first. cola works, but not very well. Its something you need to submerge it in. Vinegar works brilliantly, but again it needs to be submerged because as soon as it comes into contact with the air, it will rust up again before your very eyes. Ketchup works, but A) will drip off and B) takes a few hours to work, so again ideally needs to be submerged in the stuff Apart from that, most other stuff is going to destroy the chrome I think. I have never heard about using olive oil before
  17. yea, the indicators have worked fine. The flash rate is correct and they are super bright. I've had them working a couple of minutes at a time, but they have blown twice between them working fine if that makes sense. So they would work fine, blow the fue, work fine again the blow a fuse
  18. So, i took off the stock indicators and put on some new shiny Oxford ones. The packet had resistors included if needed. I needed them (this was confirmed when I tried it accidentally without the resistor and the flash rate was too fast, with the resistor it was exactly right) The packet said the resistors are suited for when replacing 21w bulbs. I've checked and the bulbs I have replaced are indeed 21w. Yet somehow I've manged to blow the fuse. I checked the wiring and presumed the fuse was just on its way out anyway,so I replaced it. What was odd though is there was a 15amp in there, when the labels clearly 10amp. Anyway, I changed it for a spare 10amp but I think because the wrong ampage (thats a word, right?) was used in the first place, it caused issues with the relay - as in every time I turned the indicator on, it would stay on and not flash. Turning the ignition off and on again didnt help, but strangely removing the relay from the bike and re-plugging it in seemed to do the trick. So I presume all is well, I test it out a few times, on off on off etc all is fine. A few minutes pass and I turn them on one last time just to make sure everything is still ok and nothing. I'm out of fuses too, so I can't test any further. The thing is though, there is no visible shorting of the indicators, the correct resistors were used and I can't think of any other reason it would keep blowing the fuse Also why was there a 15 amp in there before? Maybe the previous owner had the same problem? But there weren't any LED indicators on it when I bought it Anyone got any ideas to how i can stop it from blowing fuses?
  19. Everyone will love you for it too. I love the smell of 2 strokes!
  20. superb! The 600rr is definitely the best bike I've ever ridden Lots of fun when you want to have fun, easy to filter on and is the best looking bike on the market in my eyes! Glad your still loving it!
  21. I was thinking of quick release too. There are all sorts of different types you can use
  22. I did that to mine too, but they smelt worse than before. I couldnt dry them out properly after I washed them so hey got musty and yuck.
  23. I did this two days ago... New bike which was turning over but not starting. I tried push starting a few times, then looked at the kill switch.... I previously thought that if it was turning over then the kill switch was off because with my last bike when the kill switch was on it wouldnt turn over.
  24. I use one for my current bike. Apparently they are having an issue with a few of their T-piece screw things which is what happened to me. I emailed them that it wasn't screwing in and they just sent another one out free of charge next day delivery. If your using one, just be careful when moving it around the bike, its a big bit of scaffolding which I almost smacked into the fairing first time I used it! Good bit of kit. A bit pricy for what it is, but easier to use and more useful than more expensive alternatives
  25. mealexme

    Indicator problems

    The way I read this is they work normally below about 30mph but flash rapidly at 30mph+. Is that what you mean? If so I would say its more likely to have "normal" bulbs rather than LED. One reason they can flash rapidly is if one of the bulbs blows or if for some reason a connection is lost. If it is happening at 30+ it could be an indicator with a dodgy connection which when being buffered by the wind is loosing connection. Try wiggling each indicator when off the bike to see if you can recreate the symptoms. If you can, replace the offending indicator.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Please Sign In or Sign Up