husoi

I haven't been on the west coast lately, do I can't really tell. 

I would guess the A roads will still be in a decent condition.

It would be the road from Ullapul to Durness that maybe you need to be weary because isn't a A road.

The road from Durness to thurso have amazing views

I would make sure you know the condition of the roads.

Last time I went of a small part of the NC500 the roads were in miserable condition.

Forget about Applecross, used to be a magnificent place to visit and bow is a chain of potholes.

Some eejit thought was a good idea to advertise the NC500 and it's beautiful scenery. Unfortunately councils and whichever agency is responsible for the maintenance of the tarmac couldn't care less about it.

Be prepared for expensive B&B.

Although midges are free and you're welcome to take as many as you want

Progress so far

Used rust converter on places I can't remove rust with the disk or steel brush.

Applied the zinc primer to cleaned parts.

Where metal is pitted I used chemical cleaning.  

The side stand was probably the worst part.

Unfortunately acid doesn't really work on iron as much as in steel so lots of brushing, sanding and disk.

Tomorrow will show the 3 bits with nickel plating

The 2 springs for the stand and the axle bolt.

Picture with the green liquid is for the plating

After long research and plenty thinking I decided that my best option to deal with rust on the pan is this:

Rust stripping disk to remove it

Cold zinc primer as treatment 

Then some black paint to match the existing.

This where the original is black and out of sight.

The fairings bolts are new and I will only use some anti sticky paste, I believe @Bender suggested it (apologies if someone else)

The side and central stand is a different matter all together.

Don't think I can nickel plate both because of the size.

Still in study and open to suggestions

Would zinc and black paint help?

Good thing about Scotland.

Weather is always crap

4 hours ago, Cycleops said:

Thanks for that. Unfortunately Halfords think I'm part of a bot farm because of my web address and won't let me look at their website  

If you could post a screenshot of the set and the sizes therein I'd be grateful. I just want to get an idea of the sizes as I can only find individual ones here 

Yesterday washed all fairing parts for the pan.

Next remove all rust and paint some proper primer.

Not convinced about rust converter and read mixed views on the web.

Today had a wee trip around the council.

Ansthruder, At Andrews and then back home.

Just in time to avoid the strong winds.

I would avoid something permanent.

Those things don't last long and if you glue it with something stronger you risk trouble to remove them.

The wasted brake fluid shouldn't be used again once it comes out the bleeder.

I just use a SS dog feed bowl. Heavy and wide enough to stay in place. A couple small clamps to hold the hose in the bowl does the trick.

Halfords have a good affordable set of 4

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/screwdrivers-and-hex-keys/sealey-4pc-jis-screwdriver-set-453366.html

5 hours ago, fastbob said:

I must be getting old . Surely I'd remember our conversation if we'd met ? 

Honestly, I would struggle to remember anything other than melons

Phoking me

Ordered the wrong set of fairing bolts for the pan

Anybody interested in a brand new in box set of bolts and fasteners for a CBR600 let me know.

It cost me £16 I'll pay for postage because I'm an eejit

Unplug the battery and use some alcohol based liquid that won't affect the plastics

Alcohol will evaporate leaving the surface clean.

If safe to do, nail polish remover could work too although you have to be careful with painted surfaces and some plastics will get affected by it 

7 hours ago, curlylegend said:

What green metal thing ?   And what kind of heat gun are you using ?

7 hours ago, curlylegend said:

What green metal thing ?   And what kind of heat gun are you using ?

This green thing

The heat gun I got a soldering iron and heat gun from AliExpress. The one in the first picture.

Well spent 70 quid

I stopped using the soldering iron and I'm using the heat gun.

Then the green metal thing to press the plastic into place

9 minutes ago, OnlyYamahas said:

Oh ok I was told right side behind drivers back wheel but not to close was safest to avoid being rear ended and good escape route.

Thanks for the advice will apply when next out.

Group riding is a different thing.

You will want to avoid riding in straight line.

Staggered positioning is the safest.

You will have open space in front and the group will be more visible if the drivers can see 2 bikes instead of just the one covering the view of the group

9 minutes ago, OnlyYamahas said:

Thanks I've heard near the middle at all times.Would you say that's good advice?

Not that simple.

Road safety will say to divide the lane in 3 sections.

1 will be the third to the left

2 middle third

3 right third.

You would ride on position 3 most of the time and this is known as command position. Where you will be the most visible.

On bends you will take position 3 if left bend and position 1 for right bend.

You will adopt position 2:

 - Over a hump where you can't see the oncoming traffic.

 - when other vehicles come on opposite lane. This will allow you to keep a safety bubble.

 - When approaching a left side junction and you can see vehicles wanting to join the road you're on

There is a lot more to it than what I just said.

It will happen that a driver is distracted or busy with something else that won't see a biker even if you're wearing a amber flashing light on top of tour helmet.

Hence bikers developing a sixt sense in predicting what other people wil do.

Prevention may slow you down and delay your arrival a few minutes but it will make sure you arrive.

One of the most important things you can do as a rider is positioning yourself on the road in a way you maximise your visibility.

There will always be an idiot that is messing with the phone and won't care about anything else

Practicing my plastic welding skills

From this to fixing fairing welding 

that's pretty much what poleas Scotland is

I want to nominate my ex manager, his manager and the MD of the company where I have worked until yesterday.

Bless the day I left

Now looking for something new to do

Hey and welcome to the forum.

You can ask as many questions as you want.

There is no such thing as a daft question.

We also love a good photo too.

21 hours ago, curlylegend said:

Post a report on the SeaFoam.  I'm sure quite a lot of us would be interested.

I've used seafoam in my Shadow.

Both as fuel additive and in the engine oil.

The engine oil was due to the clutch starting to slip.

The problem was solved in minutes and never had a problem again.

I'm the fuel I use it when I know the bike will be stopped for a few weeks.

The engine starts first time with little crank. Like 2 turns and is running.

I have used it on the pan too, however, because runs more than the shadow and it's injection I don't feel much difference.

I strongly recommend it for carb bike as it keeps the system clean and problem free.

Thought of the day

When life gives you lemons.

Throw them at your boss's head