Chrissb6

Nice little job you've found yourself there I personally would not use an impact driver on those bolts That block and the threads are aluminium your going to smash the block if your not careful. Get yourself a little blow torch and try this trick it works: Heat the area around the bolt with the torch, once it’s hot touch a candle to the threads. The wax will be sucked into the opening around the threads, and the bolt can be removed easily. The heating and candle application may have to be repeated a couple times. This works on the same principle as "sweating -soldering" copper pipes, it called capillary action. If you cannot get the candle directly onto the threads as it goes into the block use a quick spray of penetrating oil, just make sure there's no flame about when you do this. The trick is to heat the metal around the bolt, not the bolt itself. Keep us posted

Correct Anti freeze is as important to your bike as having the correct oil, l would not skimp. Alloy high performance engines require the correct fluid apart from cooling the motor the fluid has numerous other tasks. Such as lubricating the water pump, inhibiting the alloy metals and rubber hoses to avoid corrosion. Mix if not pre mixed with distilled water never tap water. For what it costs and the risks you run skimping is just crazy! The thing is you will not have an instant failure using the wrong cheap stuff, you will just grind to a halt with a repair bill. Might take weeks, months or even years but it will happen.

All depends on what state you put it away in, was it cleaned and lube up before you put it away, is it garaged and covered? If its was and your between services and running fine then its just a case of normal checks of oil, water, tyre pressure and chain. If its kept out side exposed to the weather then a good clean make sure all the linkages are all lube up and working correctly Sticking brakes can be an issue if left out to the weather. Yep the garages are there waiting to take your money, there's a lot you can do yourself if your up for it! Save your money for the insurance and the like!

I agree, great product brought one a few weeks back all's well so far. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTEK-Multi-MX ... 0744951544

Go for it, not a problem as long as the numbers match

Seen it done with the cars many times, never with a bike. Suppose there's always a first Anyway no damage done apart from loss of time, hair and a rake a riddicule to face when this lot catch up with you .

Fair play for being honest with us and yourself. Hopefully you have found the problem and it’s soon sorted. We all make mistakes l did say it might be something stupidly simple O well' we all live and learn at least you know the workings of a carb now joy and not thrown money on a replacement. Fingers x for you in the morning. Had a similar drama with Sue's Renault Magan. It was making an horrendous noise whilst she reversed it, had the RAC out, the guy said “ its the C/V joint drivers side”. I set my stall out Saturday morning to rip it out and replace it. Out and under pulled the dam thing out nothing wrong with it, gearbox me thinks!? Check and double checked. Fault was found to be the dam brake pads chattering Joy! Replaced them now all good, heaven knows what sort of bill a garage would of ran up should she had been towed in?!!

Is the carb rubber mounted? This could be split hence the lack of vacuum just a thought

Hi, as you rightly say if it runs with no issues with an alternative supply of fuel your in the ball park. That x's off compression and ignition side of things. Blocked tap, fuel line, sticking float or blocked jets. You might want to take the carb to the garage and get a second apinion before you go buying.

Poor lad put some hrs and head scratching into chasing this fault. Whats the bet that if the bike ran the day before we all looking at something stupidly simple Broken side stand switch, coil breaking down or in this case it may just be the fuel system. Just have to say, all my bikes with carbs have stood for months with the same old fuel in them and all fire up with no bother. To loose compression unless something has let go - gone bang, thats normally a progressive fault and not a instant fault.

What a shitty day to messing with the bike outside Best of luck Fella hope its soon sorted

Some info here that might help http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/engin ... -test.html I myself would try this route: Get the battery fully charged, dry and warm the plugs refit to the engine try to start normally choke and all, if it fails to start take the plugs out and inspect. If you find the plugs not to be wet it’s a fuelling - carb problem, if they are, look at the ignition circuit and compression. PS try not to spin the starter motor to long give a rest now and again to avoid making a problems in this corner Best of luck Mate

Thats whats making me look at the fuel tap, sometimes there's a tiny strainer - filter built into them, it could be the cause of the problem.

Just had to check that your motor was not a 2 stroke, thank god it’s not. Heads up, Starter fluid is not recommended for 2 stroke engines as there is no oil in it to lubricate the engine. Suzuki's at one time a day had a vacuum operated fuel tap Just a thought

Had to bump start my fuel injected GSXR a few times when the battery was dying.. not enough power to turn the starter, but enough to power up everything else... but yes, if the battery is totally dead, you'll be stuck!! Yes l agree Joe, l was referring to a dead flat battery. Once the starter motor starts to run out of steam forget the starter motor, try and bump it.

A good read up here with good advice http://www.whitedogbikes.com/batterycharge.htm As said, never use a car charger to charge a bike battery you will boil it 2 amp charge max. A dead flat battery on the bike will get trashed eventually by the bikes chargeing system, iether ride it to keep it charged or optimate - trickle charge it. A reminder its NOT possible to bump start a fuel injected or pressurised carb fuel system bike as it requires electrical power to run up the fuel pump and engine management system. Its a jump start only.

2500rpm idle way to high The bike would be a nightmare to trickle along in traffic burn't clutch def be on the cards. Dip beam has the wattage output as high beam both normally 55 watt just the angle of beam is change. Best to find a route where you give the bike some work if possible and get some charge back in, or stick an optimate charger onto the battery as and when. PS Most important, make sure you use a correct charger, a high powerd car type charger will cook your battery if left on for to long.

Hi, If it possible get yourself a optimate charger or simular. Batteries do not like to be left in an inactive discharge state. Some info here that might help you http://www.yuasabatteries.com/maintenance.php

Hi Terry hang fire, let me check my garage. l think i've got one of these surplus to requirements in there should you be interested. http://www.ventura-bike.co.uk/products/ ... ystem.aspx it should be complete with both racks and hand rail.

Hi Terry, here you go, these guys have all you need great service got the rack and fittings for my Busa from here. http://www.motohaus.com/acatalog/SW_Motech.html PS uk company by the way!

Totally agree

Hi, how about trying an Alloy wheel cleaning - referb kit. l would avoid bead blasting its glass all said and done, that stuff will etch all the bolt heads and get in all the oil galleries be a right job to clean out. Oven cleaner has also be rumoured to work well. Best of luck. PS On painting make sure you use a etching primer designed for use on alloy, any thing else will just flake off in no time.

Yep were going for practice week and home on Monday race week. If you've never been, be prepared to be blown away nothing comes close to it Top tips give yourself plenty of space on the roads and ride to your own capabilities, its so easy to get sucked into riding way out of your depth. Pay a lot of attention to the foreign riders as they have a tendency to randomly turn right across traffic, to them it just like pulling into the side of the road which is what they are use to driving back on the continent. Be warned, there are speed limits and they will nick you! Mad Sunday is all that! It’s one was traffic only from Ramsey to the Creg over the mountain section. You will get the daft lads trying to get a full lap in don’t even try! You could go howling into a blind bend only find the road crawling with a sidecar ride out Be prepared to meet anything on the road around the next bend. A must do is to get off the course and into the back roads on the Island there’s some stunning places to see. On Race day get up early to get to the best spots, never watch on the outside of a bend you will soon find out why Lol. Anyway I don’t think it allowed these days, listen up to the track side Marshalls, Take a radio to tune into the commentary, plenty of food and drink warm gear and waterproofs if you going to a remote place “ You can always take off what you’ve got on, but cannot put on what you haven’t” Hope this help? Enjoy and stay safe.