Chrissb6

Easy enough if you've got the tools and know how. Have a read up or check youtube for a vid, someone will have put one on to show you the way. If you've not sure you can handle it. I would whip the wheel out and take it into a work shop.

Nothing worse than not be able to see where you going. It seems to me that whoever designed the lighting on this bike obviously lives in a well lit part of the world. For me there's no price you can put on safety. You so need to be able to see the road for obstructions - potholes to give you a fighting chance of being safe and surviving out there. If your bike came fitted with a 35watt lighting system, l would bet that the electrical system is built to a fairly tight spec and would not accept a higher wattage bulb replacement. As the others have said and l agree, the alternator, wiring and switches might be put under too much of a load resulting in a possible failure. There’s no price on safety, if it was my bike l would seriously consider this modification - upgrade This lighting kit http://www.bikermart.co.uk/proddetail.a ... =223-365-6 Then install a HID lighting kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HID-Kit-Xenon ... 2353082%26 This kit is a easy fit it, only consumes 35watts of power 70 watts total if you are on main beam. I would go for the 4300 k light its a true white, but if you want to look a bit bling – tint of blue 6000k is the one. You will find the difference in lighting performance massive, with no over powering of your present wiring system. You might find this fix a bit expensive, but just put this price against being hurt, insurance claim, loss of no claims bonus and lack of confidence to go out in the dark. Hope this helps PS Note, you cannot fit HID lamps directly into a halogen designed headlight, it's against the law and also the light spread is useless.

Try riding now and again with your hand just touching the brake lever, keeping a little bit of heat in the disc.

Put new battery on the zx10 yesterday £33.00 with a years warranty. Just make sure the shop has got your battery in before you go, or it might just stall your MOT

Put new battery on the zx10 yesterday £33.00 with a years warranty. Just make sure the shop has got your battery in before you go, or it might just stall your MOT

Ive got a few things from this company, they are chinese but make decent quality products cheaply. The only problem is it can take two weeks for items to get to the UK Sorry, l didn't check its source, but anyway you will need a equivalent electronic flasher or loads resistors to make the LED light work correctly

Hi ya, this is what you need if your going to fit led turn lights http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-Flashe ... 4340.l3484

If you can wait, then get to the Triumph stand at the next BMF rally, get there early some massive savings to be had

double post

First check that the throttle snaps shut when you go to close it. If not, check the twist grip and cables for free movement after that then the linkages and return springs on the carbs themselves. If it was ok before, l susspect that the throttle control system has dried up and needs to be re lubricated.

It could be a short, but normally that would take out a fuse, thats if the correct fuse is fitted?! Sounds more like a poor electrical connection - a high resistive joint. Is there a battery fitted if so, is it ok and holding its charge? I would clean and check the battery connection and earth straps, open up any connector blocks and check to see that the pins and sockets are clean, put back together with a good spray of WD40 also give the switch gear a good spray. This manky damp weather will be the cause of it. Hope your soon sorted.

These any good to you? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wing-Mirrors- ... 231ce6f779

Agree it expensive and there might be alternatives, but breaking it down with all the control connections it not so bad. If it makes the bike more comfortable to ride and gets rid of all the aches and pains then its a no brainer. The cost of changing the bike to one that suites your style and needs will cost you a hell of a lot more.

yes, cheers, i know about RS and Farnell, but wondered if there were any Bike Specific places? save me digging through all the other stuff... Just found this one, its States side but not an issue these days, looks good a bet. http://www.corsa-technic.com/content.php?content_id=3

Hi Mate, you will find everything you need here. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/

not enough or to much = problems - big problems, check twice do it once

Hi there, these any good to you mate? http://www.holeshot.com/Bandit_1250/comf_bars.html Bit expensive £240 our money, but if it get rid of the pains and discomforts meaning there's no need to change the bike its worth the money l think. I also see that this includes all the cables and connections.

No Mate nothing to do with the fuses, if there's buzzing noises you can hear is probably the solenoid. It caused when there's iether insufficent power from the battery, bad connection to hold the coil in, or the coil is shot in the solenoid. Have you access to a fully charged car battery? If so, try and jump start it, if its starts up its your battery. keep me posted best of luck

If you’re competent and only if you’re competent you could try this route. Disconnect the battery and expose the starter solenoid. The 2 large cable terminals on the starter solenoid are the ones which switch the power to the starter motor. You will see that one cable comes direct from the battery and the other one go’s direct to the starter motor. This solenoid is in fact a heavy duty switch – relay. If you can make a bridge across these 2 terminals making sure that nothing touches the chassis – earth, then with a fully charge battery just touch the battery terminal across the battery, the starter motor should turn, if not, it’s almost surely the starter motor which is at fault. PS make sure your bike in neutral and all of that!

By an optimate or this one http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/shop/produc ... oupID=3108 keeps the battery right on the top line Just make sure its suitable for a motorbike battery as a car battery charger will fry the bike battery. Have an auto electrician check the bike starter motor circuit over before you take it to the garage. Could be just something like a bad connection, i've seen bike shops empty the parts shelf in an attempt to get a fix.

This link it worth printing off just about covers it all. Just be sure that can trust the your torque wrench is it calibrated http://www.finaldrives.eu/PartsBoltTorque.htm

Thanks for that. I will use some of my concoction of 50% thinners and 50% brake fluid that was so successful in getting the exhaust bolts out: See http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/exhaust-bolts-out-day-55.html Here are the pesky beasts: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tqwKg1ggGl0/UHhL1YjHc_I/AAAAAAAABUM/zr476TqGMOY/s1600/P1040472.jpg Greetings Great job on getting them out, there are many ways of getting to Rome as they say! Always remember if you need to use heat, heat the metal around the stuck object not the object - bolt itself. 2 things happen if you heat the bolt. (A) The bolt expands in the thread and becomes tighter and (B) The heat will anneal the bolt makeing the metal softer resulting in snap off. PS If its a nut thats stuck on a thread, then you heat the nut. Nice pic's great job

Its called a roll pin, its made of sping steel you will need a drift - punch to get it out give it a good soak first. How did you get on with removing the exhaust bolt?

Padrosa and Lorenzo are awesome at dialling in fast constant laps not sure about fighting ability, sure if they get clear they will dial in and go! Rossi and Marquez on the other hand will be there trying to trip them up and cramp there style. Rossi got the race craft and Marques will be just gun hoe. Should be fun to watch! I’m going for Rossi Lorenzo Pedrosa Marquez