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megawatt

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Everything posted by megawatt

  1. If there are no sparks on any plugs, look at a common supply. Either to the crank sensors or to the coils packs. Could just be a bad earth.
  2. Most carbs have replaceable components. Rarely do you need a new carb.
  3. Aldi have jackets, trousers and gloves on website, but not in shops, at the moment.
  4. Springs?
  5. Try sticking two fingers or your thumb in the bearing centre to make sure it turns smoothly?
  6. How many miles has it done. The carb doesn't normally wear out, why buy a new one?
  7. Best you check that your engine specs are the same. Don't assume anything.
  8. Why assume the wheel bearings are OK? Don't assume anything! Check em, it's not difficult.
  9. Where are you?
  10. Do measuring systematically, double check, shuffle shims to minimise replacements. Use top end of tolerances. Order shims. Oil cam lobes, replace rocker cover, cover bike.
  11. How much movement is there in the chain when you are Sat on the bike? How many mms?
  12. As long as it's not ticking excessively, it's better than being too quiet. A degree either way on two cams can make a big power difference.
  13. Well done you. Valve clearances affect valve timing. More clearance is better than not enough.
  14. Has it been lowered or raised?
  15. You've got 10mm, I've got 3mm on my race bike.
  16. Honda SS50, 1975/76
  17. Hmmm, tricky one this. May be worth checking if others have same problem.
  18. Could it be hitting the chain guard?
  19. I wouldn't say normal. But they put it there because it can happen. In my opinion you need a new chain and sprockets, then maybe it won't touch the plastic.
  20. Yes it is, that's what it's for. Are you running standard gearing?
  21. How much chain slack when you're Sat on the bike?
  22. You're better running the chain slack than tight. It should be 35/55mm movement in the middle of the lower run. The plastic on top is to prevent swingarm damage when the top run is slack as you slow down.
  23. At least you're honest.
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