megawatt

Just won this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160751609611? ... 3984.m1423. Sorry dunno how to embed it? Anybody?

If you loosen the linkpipe to frame bolt, press down hard on the linkpipe, tighten the bolt up. May be enough to clear the silencer???

Can do that for ya Gayle. Is the collector or linkpipe bolted to the frame or engine lower down. If you loosen that bolt, will the silencer clear the bracket???

If you can bolt the can up tight and the hanger isn't pushing it sideways too much, just drill through the bracket bolt hole into the zorst hanger. If too much interference, cut the bit that touches and we can make a bracket to join the two holes, if you give me dimensions?

Nice try mate, but I think you are on the wrong track with that answer

If you can find some curved pipes that might fit, I can mod them for ya so they do fit mate??? Managed to cut and file the other three stubs and fit em to the RRW engine this morning; http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Headers/IMAG0355.jpg The view from underneath; http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Headers/IMAG0356-1.jpg Next job is to make a bracket to support the RR8 exhaust in the best position while I make and fit the 38mm spacers into the gaps! Mind you I could just stick with the stubby headers??? Double click on the piccy? http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/th_VIDEO0061.jpg

Thanks Chris, not saying that loud ain,t good either, just that too loud can mean not enough back pressure and less power.

"I imagine that the extra back-pressure can only be good for the engine too." Just saying that back pressure ain't necessarily a good thing. If you get it wrong , it will strangle the engine and reduce power. I know a little bit about exhaust systems

You can have too much back pressure and sometimes not enough !!!

I am planning on doing a lot of mods to silencers and my RRW exhaust system in the near future. So I thought I'd buy a set of RR8 headers and try to modify them to fit my RRW. Why RR8 you may ask, well the main reason was price. A set of RRW stainless headers went on eBay last night for £122 plus postage. I bought these RR8 headers last week for £4.49 plus £10 postage :D:D The RR8 headers are 38mm o/d and lighter than RRW headers.A few dimensions are similar and a few very different; Collars to fit to head are almost the same. Brackets to clamp headers to head are the same. Spacing between cylinders are very similar, about 2mm difference . Main difference apart from bends and shape of headers is that RR8 are 45 mm shorter in the vertical section, ie they will foul the sump unless I extend the verticals. A few pix; RRW headers http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Headers/IMAG0344.jpg RR8 headers http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Headers/IMAG0347.jpg I marked the vertical section of the headers 150mm from the collars and started cutting the tops off. http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Headers/IMAG0350.jpg This is no4 header top section. http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Headers/IMAG0352.jpg Will do a bit more tomorrow before work.:D:D

Lookin good Craig

I can make any silencer fit just about any linkpipe by making an adapter. I cut the 3 bolt fitting off my linkpipe and make silencers to clamp onto the linkpipe, a la slip on. To go back to standard fitting I made a slip on adapter and welded it to the 3 bolt fitting. If you have a straight through silencer, I can make a copy of it or fit a bigger or smaller baffle. If too loud or quiet , the noise can be adjusted to suit. The length of the silencer can be adjusted, but it may affect power and fuelling, but not always. I tend to use wrap around straps that will clamp anywhere along the silencer and bolt to the original fitting. Your choice Gayle???

Reeeeesuuuuuuult!!! Well done you. The perfect outcome. Stainless is always better than mild steel.

Can you measure accurately the outside diameter of the linkpipe wher it bolts to the silencer? And post pix of the fitting ? The cheapest repair is a a sheet of aluminium wrapped over the carbon skin, rivetted at the ends and all the way along the seam , which would be at the back where you can't see it?

I can repack it for ya or make you a quieter baffle. Just take some measurements and post some pix?

I comment on people's lack of maintenance all the time. Probably why I,m so popular???

Anybody got any good routes heading west towards Bala and Trawsfynydd. Hoping to do the Berwyn road to the big waterfall and Bala, then on to Trawsfynydd , where I used to work?

Do what I said with some cable ties at the front or just remove the hugger, it's not essential.. Cable ties very rarely snap, that's why policemen use em as handcuffs!!!

If you post some pix and do some measuring , I can probably make you some fixing brackets.

Yep, that was what I was hoping to do Sue, unless we can blag a lift from and to Gills. I am gonna drink lots and I will be riding on Saturday and Sunday morning. Never been to the Ponderosa and fancy some of the North Wales roads that I used to ride on 20 years ago

A piccy or two will help mate. I drilled some small holes in the front lower edge of my hugger, both sides, and tie wrapped it so it couldn't slide backwards onto the tyre!

Good idea, buy a replacement second hand Honda can off eBay. Colin, it's not metal , it's RUST. You can't weld rust You could try to repair it, but it will break again. Buy stainless if possible

If they don't fit a standard can and the one they do fit is not as restrictive on flow as the standard can , you will need to adjust the fuelling on your bike. If it's carbed , it's a faff , if it's injected, it will possibly need a Power Commander. BEWARE!!!

Exhausts rot from the inside usually, so if it has cracked in one place, you can try to repair it and then it will crack somewhere else fairly soon after. I would doubt your dealer will be able to repair it for more than a few weeks. It needs replacing with a new one or a stainless steel alternative. Your dealer will tell you that it has been repaired to save himself some money , but it won't last. I would demand a good replacement.

Possibly, you need to check and clean all the connections! LED indicators flash too FAST with a standard flasher unit. I replaced the Honda one for a LED one off eBay for £13. Flashes ok with LEDs and Tungsten indicators. Spray some WD40 in your switchgear and exercise it?