megawatt

Be great to see you there Spanky. Have you tried another indicator? I will have my spanners and leccy meter!

I'd appreciate the routes on Tyre as well mate

Nice one TC, appreciate your efforts. What is Long Hill like nowadays? Used to be ace in the 70s, a bit like Cat n Fiddle used to be!!!

As long as we can do that fast bendy bit again, I'm in???

Those pix are too small for my old eyes. PM yer number for a chat. Yes, Chines nuts n bolts are made of cheese. Replace with good stuff!

Could have broken the alloy part of the cush drive ?

Sorry , I don't understand the question???

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That brake pedal should not have fallen off Give the dealer a rocket as he should have checked it. That was dangerous Don't trust dealer in future , check everything!!! Buy yerself a 3/8" drive torque wrench from Lidl or Aldi next time they're selling them, find out the correct torque settings from a Haynes or on line workshop manual. Go from front to back of bike checking nuts n bolts. If you find any loose screws in engine or handlebars, stop em shaking loose agai with a drop of silicone! If possible replace 6mm and 8mm thread nuts with Nyloc stainless ones that don't come loose. On the bigger ones, add a drop of silicone when you put the nut back on. I have stainless nyloc nuts for sale if you need any. PM yer number for a chat?

Main use for the hugger is to protect the shock from crap thrown up by the wheel. So no probs short term.

TAKE IT OFF!!! ffs it's held on with metal brackets and bolts ,or tie wraps, can't you see em???

Deffo don't ride it till you sort it. Find the brackets and move em around until the hugger clears the tyre or just remove the hugger, you don't have to have one !

Kin ell that's well pi$$ed and dangerous. Pix of what's holding it on please. Tyr moving brackets around and if it won't stay where it should , add extra brackets or tie wraps!!!

Headers are all different sizes mate. Buy a digital caliper, about. 8quid, measure yours and ask the seller what size he is selling. Don,t refer to headers as bars, bars are handlebars or crash bars. Buy a Haynes manual and study it

May be the right size if you are lucky?

An expert is someone who has done it before, preferably more than once , and is successful I'd take up Matty's offer if I were you, but once the bolt is hot after welding, I would spray it with plumber's freeze spray to help break the bond between the steel stud and alloy head. Again be very careful, coz if the stud breaks in the head, then you have a BIG problem. The keeps are not welded to the headers to allow flexibility and a good seal when fitting.

It,s gonna cost ya, but if I were you, I,d get an expert on that stud.!

If the keeps are captive on the headers, you will either have to weld repair them whilst on the headers or cut the end of the header off, fit new keeps and then weld the header. I doubt you will be able to buy new keeps and there is no ther way of holding the headers into the head, whatever your mechanic says Some headers use two split collets to fit between non captive keeps and the head.

What are the headers to collector/manifold sections and silencer like mate. The keeps will need welding whilst fitted to the headers, unless you have collets as well? If you can,t sort em, pop em in the post and I,ll do it for ya. The broken stud will need expert removal skills or you could make it worse. Heat and cold is the way to do it. Is the good keep captive on the header?

What Bob said. It's probably already bent and everytime you run it, it is bending more, affecting the clearance. Only a matter of time before the valve head snaps off

Pix would help mate.Sounds like a problem with the valve to me. Best to remove it , check seat and do some measuring!

Yes it is mate. Are the pipes stainless or mild steel. Check em for holes n cracks. Stuck stud will be very difficult for you to remove. Put Plusgas or wd40 on it. Post pix of it before trying to undo it or it will cost you a lot of dosh. Don't say bars say pipes or headers if that's what you mean. The pipes are held in with the keeps, they have a big hole in the middle and two 8mm holes for the exhaust studs. I thought one was cracked in the picture. You will have to repair/weld it , especially if it will not come off the pipe. I will pm my number for a chat, if you want my advice?

Did you read my post?

You shouldn't need sealant on downpipes mate. Clean head and pipe ends, make sure threads in head are clean.Insert new exhaust gaskets into head , then pipes. Tighten up evenly, with a final tighten when engine/pipes are hot. Shouldn't have any leaks. Are those pipes mild steel? Did you clean rust off? If so , check for holes and cracks and then paint with High Temperature barbecue paint or similar. If you can, replace mild steel headers with stainless ones.

I seem to have dropped off the list again? Is someone trying to tell me something?