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megawatt

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Everything posted by megawatt

  1. Spotted this on the bay??? 150732823800 I could make a stainless shield for it?
  2. I can do something if it's stainless and you can always post it?
  3. I can polish stainless for you, depending on depth of scratches though? Got any pix. Dunno about chrome though, because it's a mirror finish, it does take a lot of very fine polishing!!! Can you post clear pix of the damage?
  4. Running rich doesn't cause big problems like running lean does. I would have liked to see a sandy coloured ceramic around the central electrode?
  5. Give em another clean and ride it hard for a while and see if they're still the same colour?
  6. megawatt

    Dyno's......

    Normally cost about £30 per run, so if you need adjustments, you will need more runs and it costs more money. Yes it can find a fault in your bike if one exists and you never hold the revs at max or get the engine up to full temperature. If your bike is well put togaether and has no pre-existing problems it SHOULD be alright
  7. You don't read if it runs rich mate, you fit new plugs or clean the existing ones, give it a hard blast along a long straight road, whip the clutch in as you cut the ignition and check the plug colours. Or stick with OEM
  8. Cold weather hates batteries. Charge battery to 13.5 degrees and try it. Check battery volts again after a cold snap?
  9. If it's a higher flow air filter, it will need more fuel than before , If bike is injected the ECU MAY be able to adjust, if it's carbed you will need to jet up and possibly raise needles and open up pilot jets. Do some plug chops or get it on a Dyno
  10. There,s already a tapping to the cylinder head and a tube to the fuel tap. Put a tee piece in and fit it to the oiler.
  11. Never had a problem myself and the tapping is already there?
  12. Or you could tee into the vacuum feed to the fuel tap?
  13. Lots of thin layers, a thermal vest and long johns, compression underwear. Handlebar muffs, inner gloves, heated grips, gloves and a vest.
  14. I wouldn't leave it on prime for long , unless you want the carbs to overflow or fill a cylinder up with fuel and destroy the engine when you turn it over???
  15. I f not started for a long time, I would squirt WD40 into the plug holes and leave overnight. Spin it over in the morning. Drain all fuel out of tank and drain carbs using drain plugs. If it still won't start on fresh fuel, try some Easy Start in the air filter inlets, that usually works. If you bare unlucky , there is crud blocking the jets, but not usually all of em.
  16. Will try to make this with a few mates.
  17. Yeah, go for the big one Gill. Just don,t overload it.
  18. Does it lurch forward when you put it in gear?
  19. Go back to the place that fitted them?
  20. That would be a yes then!
  21. Buy a 50 or a 125 to ride when you are legal. Buy a Japanese bike, don't buy any other makes from any other countries. Buy a 4 stroke, Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki or Kawasaki
  22. Check oil for coolant and coolant for oil. Drain coolant and flush system with a recommended flushing, cleaning solution. Check pump is actually pumping by removing a hose when cold and see how long to empty system into a bucket, estimate flow through pump and compare with manual. Give radiator a good clean inside and outside. If all else fails, use a high efficiency coolant, expensive , but cost effective.
  23. Is it 24" square, 10" deep and would protect a pc if the bike fell over?
  24. If the pistons are withdrawing properly when you release the brake and the pads aren't jammed, there should be very little drag , but yes you often can't get rid of it completely. Main thing is that the disc isn't hot all the time, ie when you haven't been using the brake!
  25. And the clutch has been abused, it's been dropped loadsa times and they are selling it coz it ain't worth repairing. walk away IMO
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