Tango

The loud click......was this when you thumbed the starter button? Could be that your battery is a bit low. Low tyre pressures can affect the handling and the feel of the bike, as can cold tyres on wet roads. Is the rear tyre squared off? Also check your wheel bearings and swing arm bearings for play......and make sure the wheel nuts are tight. You should be ok just topping the brake fluid up......but, as it's gone low, you may want to check the condition of your brake pads as they may be low too. Good luck.

Welcome to TMBF mate.......pop over to the Newbies section and introduce yourself to the guys when you get chance....... Anyway......CBT will only allow you to ride a 125cc bike, irrespective of your age.......but, as you're 24, you can do the DAS which would allow you to ride any bike.....

So, as the offer price has gone up, the trade card may get the price down a bit......

Yes......a nice collection of some pretty poor riding........ I'm sure I could hear the Harley rider crying after he binned it.....

Can you still use the Trade card for additional discount on these things? Santa should be bringing me the cantilever toolbox for christmas (if I behave myself)......so I can sort my tools out as I've got all sorts of different sockets specific to the bikes......and front spindle tool........and big C-spanner for chain adjustment, etc. That are dotted around the garage on various shelves at the moment.......be nice to have them all in one place.....

If you want a waterproof one at a good price..... http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lomo-Dry-Bag-Da ... pd_cp_sg_0

Yeah.....but we've only got the slow, safe version Joe.......

Depends on how bad they are and if they've got any kind of paint finish on them and its condition..... I wipe the Speedy cases over with a bit of ACF50 on a rag as they've got a good black finish on them. The Honda cases are a bit tatty, so they're gonna need a good sanding down and repainting.......and possibly some polishing on the silver casings...... So, there could be a few options mate......

Thin oil is best for lubricating your cables if they need it...... I wouldn't be using grease of any description.

Great evening......back home now. Thanks to those that came along.....and big thanks to GOG for organizing it..... Have a very Happy Christmas and a great New Year guys........and looking forward to the Tuesday evening meets again, once the weather warms a bit......

My V60 had to have the water pump replaced at the first service.....although I hadn't seen any problems, it was picked up by the technicians. Since then it's been OK......just approaching 50k in a bit under 2 years. Still original tyres. Better than the Beemer I had before, which had all the coil packs replaced at least twice ( and a couple 3 times) in the 3 years I had it......and I was lucky to 20k miles out of a full set of tyres.... Overall I'm pretty pleased with it so far.....

It's an inner ear problem that affects your balance. As it's a virus it can't be treated with antibiotics......it just needs to run its course..... When I had it the only thing that I could take was travel sickness pills to try to help with the symptoms.....

Nice one mate........welcome back to the world of biking......

It's looking good Craig........bet you can't wait to get that cast off......

I had it a few years back......I think I was only off the bike for a week, but it seems that this is quite variable. Hope it clears up soon for you mate.

Sounds like a plan mate.....

Yeah.....as Mr Fro says, Prime is only used if there's no fuel in the lines or carbs (if you run out, for instance). Normally in the On position the fuel flow is controlled by a vacuum pipe from one of the inlet stubs......so the fuel only flows when this vacuum is present........but, if you run out, it could take a fair bit of cranking on the starter to prime the system up, so that's when you'd use the prime position.....

Prime.......opens the fuel flow without the engine running to prime the fuel line and carbs....

The adjustable linkage will only make a difference of you're running out of travel on the brake pedal.....if you've not got a lot of free play on the pedal I'd tend to leave it as it is...... Given the age of the bike, a master cylinder rebuild may not be out of the question. Mind you, I'm not sure what you're expecting from the rear brake........mine will not lock the rear wheel at speed, but most of the braking is done by the front brakes anyway..... The rear is only really effective for holding the bike on a hill or slow speed manouvring.

TAS racing and Tyco have joined forces with BMW for 2015 race season. http://www.visordown.com/motorcycle-new ... 26037.html What do you think?

Why don't all you wusses.......er, I mean, folks who need a bit of comfort, organise yourselves and stay at the same hotel/guest house........that way you can share a taxi or, if there's enough of you, organise a minibus to split the cost?....

The screeching noise when the clutch pulled in or let out?? Could be clutch thrust washer/bearing breaking up......or maybe one of the clutch bolts has come loose........or the clutch basket is worn or loose..... A bike drinking oil but not dropping it?.......it must be burning it then......smoke from the exhaust? Rings, valve guides, all the usual suspects really......

Yeah.....sounds like you greased them ok, so they should be ok. The other pin is the pad guide pin, which should be smooth so the pads can move freely. The flat blade screw is normally just a small blanking plug......when it's removed you see the allen head on the end of the pin so it can be unscrewed using a hex key..... Bear in mind that the quality of brake pads varies a bit.......so the stopping power of some are not as good as others....

I know the bike has been a right pain Ollie.......but you've learned a lot from it and gained a lot of confidence to tackle jobs that a lot of people would baulk at........so, every cloud has it's silver lining....

I post directly from my computer......using the Upload Attachment section below......