Joeman

it arrived as promised http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... =3&t=45180 insurance sorted but DVLA not come through with tax and V5 yet so not taken it on the road. I keep checking their site every few mins lol Poor show from Norton, not to have sorted out a V5 for you after keeping you waiting that long!

Just sounds like one of those bad days that comes along once in a while.. Dont let what happened put you off biking - remember you have the ZZR600 to look forward to once you pass

Congrats on the mod1 Whats all this talk about speed gates?? no such thing when i did my test many years ago... wonder how many of uss "old timers" would pass a mod1/mod2 these days!??

This bloke doesnt seem to mind!! http://www.4x4cb.com/images/articles/bike4.jpg Pic taken from this site - worth a read http://www.4x4cb.com/public/page.cfm?Pa ... N=41564324

Do people still use CB radios anymore? or have internet chat rooms replaced them? would be cool if we could revive CB by all fitting them to our bikes

Thats exactly what it was like!! DIN sized CB on the rear carrier with magnetic whip ariel on top, ans some clever rewiring of the curly wirly mic lead so that it carried the audio instead of the push to talk, and moved the PTT to the handlebars.

When i was a lad, i had a CB radio fitted on my DT50, and my mate had one on his honda C50 - must have looked right idiots, but they worked well! If i was building the setup again today, id pop into maplins, buy a pair of hand held CB radios that take external mic and earpiece, and get soldering!

you could make a cheese sandwich without needing any actual cheese!

So did you buy one?? whats your thoughts??

Doesnt sound like an electrical problem to me - if its fine when its cold and on choke, then starts playing up when its warm and off choke... Just an idea - its getting enough oil right? i mean its not partially seizing up when it gets warm?

What's it do if you put it on choke when its warm?? Does that stop the stall?? Sounds like you need to get the carb off and give all the little jets a good blow out. What engine is it anyway?? Does it have reed valves?? If they wear out and not close properly you get similar problems..

I'd say well worth a try, just for curiosity reasons.. If you have any CO2 spray left, squirt it into a Zip lock plastic bag, seal it up, and throw it... as the liquid turns to gas it expands, the bag inflates, and then POP! it explodes... Hours of fun!

A dent thats pushed in, that wont pop out by its self, must be under pressure to hold it "popped in". So, for a dent to "pop out", applying liquid CO2 might just be enough to cause the centre of the dent to cool and therefore contract just enough to relieve the pressure ( thats holding the dent in) and allow the dent to pop out. I can see that working in principle I think the baking tray analogy might be right. ive had them pop in, then pop out before (showering my chips all over the kitchen floor!) and i think this technique (if it works) is more likely to work on larger, almost flat surfaces that are more likely to push in and out... Bike tanks are pretty tough, and very curvy, so i cant see it working on a bike tank, accept maybe in the sides.

If you don't know what effect localised heating and cooling can have on metal, then perhaps you did not study metallurgy hard enough. You certainly have not read what I have written to come up with your pathetic analogy above. Did you read the bit where I wrote 'won't work if the metal is stretched or creased'? It will only work on the kind of dent that would 'pop' out if you could get to the inside to push, if you are lucky, the rapid cooling will cause enough local movement to have the same effect. You are so convinced this could not possibly work you are basically accusing me of being a moron, but worst case, absolutely no further damage is caused. You option of smashing around inside the tank could easily cause further denting, so then the PDR guy has multiple dents, high's and lows to fix with complicated stress raisers to work out which dent is which. Thanks for the completely irrelevant description of quenching though, massively interesting as it was it clearly has nothing to do with what is being talked about. Like Harry Hill says, there's only one way to settle this one....... FIGHT!!!!!! Seriously though, have you tried this hairdryer/cooling technique?? has it worked for you?? Im sceptical, but then stranger things have happened, so im sat on the fence... Make a video of you doing it so you can win the 100k bet with spanner head

yep, I just dont like to leave stuff switched on in the garage.. its far enough away from the house for me not to notice if it burst into flames. It Would be interesting to monitor the voltage drop of the battery over the week. Now the alarm is disconnected, the bike should be drawing very little current from the battery, so I would hope it didn't drop below 75% during the week between weekend rides, and even if it did, a good ride should charge it up. Worse case the Optimate4 is meant to be very good at recovering dead batteries. With average life of a battery about three years, that's likely longer than i will keep the bike for so next time the battery dies, it'll be a good excuse to buy a whole new bike

they are designed to be connected all the time! mine is on all them time when the bike is parked up all my bike have been on some sort of charger the only time I ever lost a battery is when an oxford charger went tits up and fried the battery new battery and charger and its still as good as new 5 years later! a battery is kept healthy by been fully charged it will die if left to drain even just to 75% I know that's what they are designed for, but i don't like leaving anything powered up i my garage - too many flammable substances and expensive stuff. Also I've seen batteries explode, so don't fancy risking my bike and garage content to a fifty quid charger.. Also, have you felt the heat these thing put out?? Its got to be costing a few quid a year to run. Probably cheaper in the long run just to buy a new battery lol.

My alarm killed my battery at the weekend, ive now decided to add a switch in a hidden location to isolate the alarm when its not needed - ie when its safely locked in the (alarmed) garage during the week. I have an Optimate4, but dont like the idea of leaving it connected to the bike all the time.

LOL.. go try one on before you order off the web I also have the RST Razor trousers.. they zip together well

LOL, nice one.. glad it was a simple fix... As for the battery, monitor it, but as i said, you might not need to replace just yet, depending on how often you ride, and if you have an alarm fitted (or anything else that drains the battery). Generally, if the battery will turn the bike over for 10-20 seconds (like yours seems to be capable of) then its still quite strong, and a healthy bike (with choke) will start within less than 2 seconds. i wouldnt replace the battery just yet

He reckons it doenst have a choke... IMO if it turns the engine over for more than 20seconds, there is nothing wrong with the battery. Had the bike been standing for a while before you got it?? what state is the fuel in?? rust in the tank??

Take a look at the RST Pro series jacket. Thats what im wearing at the moment... Loads of armour, fits well, and nice and cool. http://www.twowheel.co.uk/images/detailed/41/rst-proseries-jacket-black1.jpg

Thats what i thought too....

Not a battery/charging problem IMO, the battery is strong enough to turn the starter motor for way longer than usual, so its also strong enough to make the spark and run injectors etc. More likely a fuelling problem. does it start better if you give it a bit of throttle?

Though Fuel Injection only started in 1998.. My Mistake... Certainly not a battery issue though

Nice video.. interesting to see that you dont appear to do any countersteering Thats not a criticism, just an observation - maybe Harleys dont do countersteer like sports bikes?