RideWithStyles

To add - Sure the angles of the header are very different plus the spacing between seems different...

So the thread should say starts but wont idle. Balance the carb, reset cables.

Dont know the bike directly but thinks to check. if its a old school mechanical cable- If its a wheel speed sensor wire not in the correct placement or broken internally going to either the clock or wheel that can do it, if the cable is routed slightly differently to the manufacturer way can do it. its hub that is mounted to the front wheel hub thats blinding or damaged. If its electrical version then the wires, the speed sensor pick up or its ring is not working or in correct place. That will either be at the wheel or at the output shaft. If the clocks rev or speed dont work its a mot failer.

Same year as wifes bike. really doubt the battery. the cut out is not battery directly too, So the bike is ready to start but something is stopping it.... go back to start and basics of most likley. the side stand switch its vague and crude type and wires isn't great on these sticks with age, chain lube, road gunk etc and if the bike "thinks" its side stand it down due to the switch it wont prime or start, but the lights will still do what they normally do. Put on centre stand and give the side stand switch and wires a clean. Sometimes it will start and go even if the side stand is fairly pushed out yet it can stop it if its not fully kicked up or the switch is out of place. Clean up the connection. check that the bolts are tightened up for the side stand/switch cos its its vibration from the motor has loosen it the bike will think its stand is not correct. that is the basics of to check first. Nust a silly question, it doesn't have a immobiliser fitted does it? It if does id pointing a finger at that if the above doesnt work.

Very worst case is the selector forks bearings could be worn or the forks them selfs bent slighly... not as bad as early Suzukis but not quite bullet proof. going up the gearbox is very easy quite stress free for it, going down is not. Sounds weird but hear me out it might not be for you but good info for other people... does this one have has the clutch rod actuator a metal rod sticking out from the case just next but Slightly higher and to the left of the sprocket and chain transmission? It that is worn or too short (you can fit one from a similar model but its just a fraction too short) and wont push enough to select. The reasons being if the chain snapped it takes this rod out first and pretty much everytime, people put in one from other sources thinking that one will fit from a different model thinking its the same engine.... its not the same. back to thw other question, slight movement Isnt a true issue but depends on how much and if it's twisted slightly. if you hear it on blip there is less tension on than on true drve id doubt it would be that on its own unless the shaft has too much movement sliding in and out to say...(giddity) or the inside sprocket to the shafts locking teeth is too worn creating a slapping noise from retention and detention similar to chain slack the other could be if the chain has stretched slightly..vis is more of a visual inspection.

Agree with the others to start with. Yes so trying to start...but gives the impression of not enough juice to get it going if that was the case the headlight will be fairly dimmed too when turned on but before starting up But this would be more of a cold starting issue rather than a hot start. something is masking the problem with the look of first cause at first glance. Plus needs to adress the cutting out in the first place. the neutral lifht will naturally dim or go out anyway when starting it thats what they all do plus the engine light will stay on until started and idle. when it does this cut out and the key is turned does the bike make still sound of the pump being primed and other tick sounds at the clocks? Trying to think of the solution of hot starting issues...id look at the relays and its wiring too, if its weak, sticking, over heating that can give problems of cut outs and not starting. Wifes cbf125 can stand unused and not on a charger for months on end, even after the snowy winter outside and still starts in april with a decent battery.i think after about more than 4 years like that its little battery did struggle and needed a second go to start it after its cold winter but after a ragging run it was fine for a few more months.. it is a tiny battery but its a tiny single cylinder motor to spin up. so id voltage test the battery anyway to test if its weak or been cooked by the rectifier (a common honda problem) or stator. Which year of bike??and what tyoe of battery is in it?ie a leadacid version or one of the many type of lithium? Just to note for you or some other people... older bikes dont get on with modern lithium batteries, as their charging units are not designed for them, requiring higher but shorter recharging characteristics to leados. Lithium batteries are completely goosed and not recoverable if drops near and defo below 9volts, lead acids can go below 6vts and still recover marvels of old technology. Triumph regularly throw out bikes to this day that are too close to fine line electricity.. just about works if everything is brand new but add in wear, age, corrosion, natural degradation of batteries, gaining resistance of wires and parts they struggle.

Agree but there you go , thats a forum for the masses to access quick and free knowledge. Some people just want a ready meal or fast food... quick nugget and go, they just want that. Sometimes with people its not the answer they want to read, dont agree then get disgruntled sometimes from experience. maybe it might be useful to just pin this for info but that would make the forum less busy?

This discussion to start with was road going public use bikes from dealers now were going onto race teams....I think there is a confusion between a road bike, a track day and a race bike which has many grades of usefulness to each requirement. as a road bike to a public buying customer is harder to judge the numbers and dealers dont want loads sitting around. So these will be registered. track days ones are mostly used from different previous users with less that comes from a dealer nut not to be ruled out. alot of race bikes are still dealer supplied from the start.The race bikes to supply the teams are easier for the manufacturer to know how many numbers to allocate for a region at the start of a season and what back up to have. These bikes to most teams (unless tour budget is huge) are just normal road bikes that are supplied then its up to the team to strip it and exchange parts as they see fit or budget to... with the likes of even pbm, they buy in a spec that they want from the start and support they receive from the manufacturer with agreements in place. Theae will nit be registered so numbers are harer to work out for normal people. Yea the numbers for race teams wont keep a manufacturer going on that income alone on just bikes without the public buy in too but it goes both ways. just a single year teams bring in a lot of money to the bank with bikes every year plus in replacing parts (parts vary to oem to aftermarket depending on race series) when the riders crash it. Its all anout looking at it from the big picture when tou bring them all together but if there is a dwindling buying public road user just for ownership every 3 ir more years and a oil change yearly just to keep a dealer interested. yea those zx400's will be race ready price..race bikes aint cheap and even superstocks are not cheap, never has been. even just the starting parts like change of body work, forks £1000-2000 pair, shocks£1000-2000 each , brakes £1000+ and pads every session/ day, wheels (£1000+one pair) plus Add spares and sets ready for wets and two sets of tyre warmers minimum, tyres at least three sets of drys for a meet if ar the back of the grid, plus remaps or flashes to the ecu, changing it to race regulations adds cost. Oil changes every meet and beake fluid changes..Not to forget spares... i know a mate who had a r6 race bike in the paddock, £25k just for that bike with only what it had bolted on at the time ready to roll... so for race teams and topend track dayer buying the bike is the cheapest thing, putting stuff on it and actually running it is the most expensive part...unlike the average road user which is rhe other way round.

Yes sorry ive misread/misunderstood what you was meaning- he was riding YOUR bike.. well you would get it then as your the registered keeper, it would be up to you to name him and then he would get the ticket and points...so you took the points for him- unless of course you didnt say as to avoid tinting a relationship (though frankly thats what hed done) or he wasn't insured/licensed if im looking into this more specifically. looking out for your safety is just another way of saying they saw a potential error or teach you something to avoid the likely hood of having to scrape you off the floor in the future but of course they cannot say directly. to put it one way It would be easier to just ignore it/person and just carry on with the day taking the pay rather than have to interact with the public for a minor chat. all ill say is sometimes its better to take heed of the advice of they offer freely than to just mark it down to "F@king @rsehole got nowt better to do and screw um".

If it pipe Cod the pipe have a tiny nick that only opens when hot? If its the bottle you find the crack, for a short to medium time fix is plastic weld.. its abit like soldering wires, the other way is fibre glass, similar to car or better yet plastic body work kits. metal putty you can use for quick to medium term. for the rad / aluminium you can have it welded properly but that wil cost money and time.

Welcome Yog!

Still in production?? U mean design and testing? it may take a good few years/generations to get anywhere near the established big players, it might raise a few brows and maybe push a buttons if they can actually make it not be problematic. if memory serves me correctly the engine (or half of it?) was from the doomed terrible design, mismanagement of the Norton saga? will be is an exact copy (china default) rather than an actual redesign of one or even possibly a new home made design? be interesting to place bets on what goes first on them... electrics, explosive detonation or rust... Wish it well all the same.

i know the Chinese manufacturer dont have a Europe distributor or a stockpile of parts, it has to come from china directly... on the cheap, thrown in a random container while nobody was looking that might be going to somewhere in the world thats not china, so dont be surprised to take months to turn up. If they dont fix it in a timely manner, tell them that it wouldnt pass an mot, so it not roadworthy and possibly unsafe so they can take it back and give u a full refund if they / zontes cant be bothered to fix it/ send the part. that will make them worried!

Exactly for the track only.... not much use for the public road buyer. maybe MSV might aswell fill the grid full of another one make series or a gaggle of adventure bikes, sports tyres like rosso4 s, sports touring tyres for intermediates (Angel gt2) and wets can be knobblies.

Yep the walkers feel its theirs to do and have how they please, sod it to the other potential users that may have feel to move there arses to the side as the ramble cos they travel at 2mph. plus dont like to control there sodding dogs that shite all over the place and leave it...Dirrty buggers. You see coopers have levels of talking to the public, especially road users.. 1) if its a chat (given with advice) which means that was slightly naughty and you shouldnt have done that while i could/might have see you. 2) if it a person sort of bollcking and not booking you, youve been very lucky cos you was close to been buggered, that could be because an experienced copper will say i dont really have evidence to take it further so im gonna mass ur ears in to scare you not to do it again and waste my time. 3) if very professional/business talk and straight to it, you're in the deep end with the sharks and your gonna get more than a slap for being a creting. now for the undertaking that wasn't illegal, that view from the federallye would have been, what if the vehicle decided to be in the wrong lane and just change without looking and tw@t you off?... your on the worst end of that crappy decision of the other vehicle user even if they made a bad call. the speeding one is the old school of association of one copper with one tool and one chance to clock..., mates together, keeping together and keeping up, if one of u is caught the other(s) must be so there from the fasict view, courts generally take a NoBs view over any other person that wishes to enter the room of prejudice... i mean judgement.

The other incentive to drive/ride while being attentive to your speed is that youll have less insurance companies to choose from and will be massively more expensive. if you still dont behaave after that courts can ban u for even longer/ indefinitely or let you stay in a 3x2mtr accommodation for a while to think about what you might be doing wrong, it is rare but a possibility.

The refusing to rev out might be to do with the spark coil lead.

Looking at venom and some of the newer models out. they do look different externally and in fitment, not sure if the wiring or the electrical blocks will be different again without more info. you might be better asking a dealer to source one or even if they are no other options a general aftermarket set but is will start to be very time consuming and expensive to make one work with it...

Just to add if having passed both entitlements (car and bike) before the revoke/ban and you retake and pass on your bike test first, the car one will be automatically reinstated afterwards (because you've already passed before on the car). but if you take the car one first you have to retake the bike afterwards with makes sense as bikes being harder to ride and pass, that is unless you've Had some other restriction imposed by court.

its ok. Just advice. yea not good for the helmet, Highly likely to fall off and damage the helmet, especially round bike meets or public areas. If the bike gets knocked over/falls the helmet is the first thing it will damage and could scrap it addinf insult to the bikes damage youll have replace. Rubbing/ wear/ introduce dead flies -and road grime to the interior , plus long time pressures the softer crumble zone EPS liner which is just like polystyrene. Looks like you have a rack or brace bar with side rack and bungie cords. if its just the bar brace, place helmet on the rear seat with the bungies crossed left to right through the hole with the visor lifted up slightly out of the way. doesnt have to be tight just secure if the bike goes over its stays in the center away from the floor or stops the helmet being knocked off, thats safer.

Its a digital gauge on a digital dash. sounds like the sensor in the tank due to it holding the level and the wiring possible earthing) for it suddenly disappearing for sure! if its so new send it back to the dealer and tell them to actually change the parts!!

Happy birthday.

Wtf BF, do u live in a cathedral or skyrim?

Posting a Cardinal sin! . Pet peeve, Hanging the helmet from the handle bar in that way or the two others way.... look away...look away . Lol

Ta!!