RideWithStyles

Bloody Yanks....3.3gal... is 12.4 ltrs. Bigger than most 125 with under 10ltrs, similar to a 500's with around 13, but smaller than 600s and above. 70miles to 5.1 ltrs of fuel = 62 mpg if this was for a euro or jap bike id be thinking you spend time on the track . for a Harley on the road designed with a peanut tank dont moan about it you be grateful to bald eagle brigade...yeehar!!! Pew pew pew. so jokes aside its correct, the tank is skinned and double walled (carry capacity inside) like double bagging, so it is actually smaller than it is thats called design over function. so dont worry about it peanut my boy!

Bloody Yanks....3.3gal... is 12.4 ltrs. Bigger than most 125 with under 10ltrs, similar to a 500's with around 13, but smaller than 600s and above. 70miles to 5.1 ltrs of fuel = 62 mpg if this was for a euro or jap bike id be thinking you spend time on the track . for a Harley on the road designed with a peanut tank dont moan about it you be grateful to bald eagle brigade...yeehar!!! Pew pew pew. so jokes aside its correct ,the tank is skinned and double walled (carry capacity inside) like double bagging, so it is actually smaller than it is thats called design over function. so dont worry about it peanut my boy!

Confused... what actually happened??? Tha back story is nice to a design issues what happened in the 70s. but has no relevance For The point is with that highwaycode and driving/ridings standardisations/tests ARE AND HAVE BEEN FOR in the last 20-30+ years. Hince "the dance" and the active use of the back brake that has to be done unless you can get a special consession.

Hill starts...small roll back is a minor lots of roll and falling over is a fail. the reason they DONT want you to depend on using the right leg TO HOLD the bike up is that if that slips or you get it wrong you roll into the road getting squashed by a car that may be passing or on the other side of the road so its not safe. With the left leg the bike is tilted left and if you slip or get it wrong with the left worst is the curb or bank. This is the assumption of a manual gearbox with a manual selector...if the bike is electric with no right side pedal for selectoring gear then its not necessary, its treated as a scooter. But they will still want you to use the left foot as in the first case. If you dont have a clutch you would still need to balance the brake power to the out going electric motor power and not be trusting the hill hold to do the work for you incase it fails... this is safe thinking. Even if the brakes are linked but the lever is there to use they expect you to use them. Otherwise you have to do a dance if you were in neutral with the footbrake depressed -( front brake should be on anyway), put right foot down, select first gear, put left foot back down, select (press) rear brake, release(ing) front brake, (balance clutch) set off. Yep is a pain but the safest way...

Year? This is the digital dash version? So the set button in on the handle bar? in general check the that wire as that my have been pulled, follow all the way to the dash, check the back of the dashboard see if its been pulled out.

Didn't recommend it just saying there are options, Might not ave bells and whistles but It meets the safety standards. Personally wouldn't be my first choice but if it fits and its within a young person's budget while finding their feet its miles Better than second hand helmets, borrowed from "five fingers frank", dodging far east or internet knock offs, jet ski, horse riding, cyclists ...do i need to go on?

Agree with bull and megaross. everyone is different and what they need or wants, even the wifes requirements may differ to yours... example you like the bike but the seat is uncomfortable for her, The seat height and its position makes for less graceful mount and dismounts or you will get kicked in the back/head every time she has to get off, which will grate after a short while. youll be lucky if there is a matching his and hers kit...especially helmets, Flips fronts with buckle strap are more convenient but generally weigh more which can be tiresome on long journeys for some especially Shell sizes and choice can vary alot between sizes with flips. One make might design a sell for xxs to m and large to xxxl rather than xs to small, med to large and lx to xxxl. So you might end up with a bobble head massive helmet with loads of padding to fill it out that weighs more and drags in the wind more so. the fodsports are ok for first timers and cheap but for longer owner ship, cardo are better as they are water proof than sennas which are resistant at best. its like the suggestions which is fine and sound but might be no use to you for example if your not mechanical handy, not wanting to carry the tools or physically not capable of plugging a tyre at the road side in the dark while the titanic size bike is loaded up, a tyre kit not going to be much use to you...a can of sealant gel might be better , or other people prefer the AA... you need get the idea. so start with the basic, go out on shorter nearby trips and go further each time rather and see really what's essential for you rather than throw yourself in the deep end with no clue which will end in tears. when you know what you need, ask for advice for brands etc for that product.

For cheap, the bikes stores own brands tend to be quite good for the cost... ghost bikes has black, j and s has frank thomas, hell even aldi sometimes do it as special buys so they are there.

Second the advice above. go to proper bike stores, sportsbike direct, jands acceser Etc. equipment is PPE so motorbike spec is the only way. fit for helmet and clothing is paramount no ifs or buts! Features and flash paints are nice but not worthless if its not right. if you plan to ride in the cold and wet pinlock visors and the inserts stop fogging are the best. Look for specs do you need winter or just summer? Goretex water proof layer is nice if your flush and very cold blooded but some other brand named like alpinestars- drystar layer is very good , not as sweaty and alot cheaper. Cost is a bit of a indicator (like stupid cheap, is just stupid but some discounted brand stuff can be very good) but beyond the mid price points you pay a lot more for less gain. id agree with meal and mega ross on the Chinese.... Also parts are difficult to source because they see it as they only make to feed the factory at that time with a few left over (ones even the factory rejected) wher as the big brand keep going for 15yrs after the bbike was made for stock. because they all parts have to come from china directly (they dont even stock in Europe) so it costs you more to buy and the waiting time so much longer. dont expect alot of garages to want to look at the things let alone fix them if it needs it, so ull be on your own. just get a good tidy jap bike, cheaper to run , cheaper and easier to fix, has resale value where as the yellow stars brigade dont. Dont be to worried about mileage, only Buy on condition and plenty of history with full of receipts. security wise dont bother with just a disc lock, With a light weight bike one puny scrote can lift the front and move it, two and easily just lift it in a van. If you get a alarm disc lock make sure it can have a select sensitivity adjustment...it gets old when the wind blow sets it off. MOST disc locks are more vulnerable in there design plus with 125s the brakes are smalle, so the pin for it needs to be smaller to fit in the slots of the rota so a good twatting with a big hammer will be enough to take it out, ok if youve left it outside the corner shop while u get milk but anylonger and it's protection will be its downfall. Chain and lock -look for gold secure logo, through the rear wheel (better yet through the frame aswell if long enough) to a solid anchor or lamp post etc. reason being the front is easier to get off (two/three Allen keys quiet as that) and have slave wheels if they play the game that way, the rear harder. sounds stupid but bike covers, stops it getting wet but also make the thief actually need to get right up to and peek at it to see what they would have to work with before hand which draws unnecessary attention to them selfs, they might just find easier pickers down the road.

Same as the others really. Id second Daltons but if you cant do it id be really making sure its a actual motorcycle specialist with qualifications ( not just say yeah we can do that i have a piece of paper that say legal motor), word of mouth and very good reviews, closer the better at least you can stalk and get revenge if they mess it up. its not in the insurance's first interest for you husband unfortunately, only to mAke sure they pay out the less as possible and directly or indirectly gain if they can...they play the numbers game. Its a lottery of who will take the case of "insurance's selective legal team" , these " professionals" are in most cases are in a very grey area....might be the head or two who run it do have actually legal qualifications and time earned or if even have in the precise motor legal category (you never know it might be in just divorce) which still may or may not be good at it or may not have it in the field as much experience with certain legal cases even the difference between car drivers and bikes riders have different approaches/requirements unqiue to them... then there is the undergrads that may be told to take on put might not be very good and searchers etc after that watering down expertise. worse is that you could get one that has no legal qualifications or expertise but because "they paid the refundable referral fee" to take it on (this isnt illegal either) they can bumble along in the hope that is just flows without any difficulties from the other side to earn a easy pay...but i will say that if the car drivers legal side know that they have clowns on your husband's side (and generally do) they will fight and make it worse for your husbands case or also force your husband to take a less payout as they just cut their losses because they got outsmarted... like i say very grey is the insurance and legal side. If it was just the bike with afew panels messed up you could just leave it to "the selected", if it was just a written off bike id be second thinking about who the insurance passes me on to but with it being your husbands injures being more serious id make sure it was someone you know ACTUALLY knows and is good at it for you husbands sake.

Scaphoid protector. Knox pushe these through first, still got an pair in service, slight holes eventually appearing but i dont wana change them

Yep fugal little buggers, still astounded when a get a chance to ragg it ... i mean check it over for the wife... i haven't managed below 120mpg try as i might. Then there are the parts...whole chain set cheaper than i could get a front sprocket for my bike... most parts /consumable is mostly 1/4 of the price of biger bikes, tyres cheaper..... yea castrol for it will do the job, but as i say if you do ride in the cold and it seems to not like the cold as much slow to start and lumpy at idle id change it to 10-30.

yea that pipe/bung is the drain pipe for the air box. Its for small amounts of oil vapour and water/condensation buildup. There is another that is meant to be checked closer to the back of the engine between the sub frame and the engine- on the cbf is clear flatish tube. This is a breather for the engine, if that is blocked it can slowy suck oil out and load it there and the filter then a mech without checking it will just full it with more oil and the cycle carrys on. Hmmmm... very suspicious. where did you buy it??

Yea ok stuff, dont bother spending a fortune on oil types for them, they won't benefit much. if you ride them correctly they will always have fresh old because of the top up and regular small oil changes. Treat them keenly but miss treating them will keep you mean.

Yes quite possible as oil drops would have been added to the air intake, due to the littles needing loads of revs to make progression and get hot it would have burnt it off but if a gulp of it or it there wasnt much oil left in the case that can do it. how much oil came out at the change? Was it the same colour as what was in the air box?

Well these small air cooled singles are pretty robust within the jap ranks and pretty much the same. i dont know the very specific yamaha version but the honda cbf i do. Now there shouldnt be any if at worst the lightest mists of oil in the air filter bax as they should be dry paper or very unlikely if the owner put a cotton type aftermarket one in but even if it was cotton it would need to be DAMP by a air filter oil which is lighter and cleaner than an engine oil - bit like gun oil and definitely not swimming in it. But im gonna guess the previous owner hasnt done this but you never know... The two most likely is if the engine has been over filled at one point and its been forced to the air box. a breather hose is blocked. A blocked drain pipe which will be between the engine and the air box, this needs regular checking and empting. the very unlikely If the bikes been fallen on its side for abit so oil found its way out, and sat in there. is if its passing a ring or a seal is giving up. to check the oil, warmed up, put the dip stick sat on top of the first thread/casing, dont turn it into the thread. Its wants to be on the upper of the knurled (honda) or the marking. These things do burn oil, thats normal. Also depending on the oil and when you use it will give better results. No real difference between the part and fully synthetic as most of the time it gets burned off but if your gentle or dont do oil changes often, the fully synthetic might just reduce crud accumulating in slow moving areas (corners of the casing and under the filter mesh or oil deposits sticking to the piston. spark plugs on them always look old even after a few rides when changed ,5they get alot of abuse due being out at the front with no cover or shade being brunt of the elements. On a personal note : Cool or cold season the cbf is better on 10-30 rather than the 10-40 as it is just abit thick especially for short journeys. you can still use the 10-30 in hotter conditions compared to 10-40, if you take it for long rides and rag the little blighter as i do will still burn through the oil at the same rate as 40 only its easier for it on start up if its cold. anyway id just do what youve done new service parts, give the airbox and so forth a good clean up, ride it for a few hundred miles and give it a check over...

Do you remember those old tvs that weighed a ton and needed a massive cabinet to sit them on?? it was good To stop the cracks in the units when tvs had projected tubes?

Yeah heard many to get it to peoples heads. the biggest and roughest sanding paper youll ever encounter if you come off. if you think of it as a burnout, but instead of the tyre being destroyed think of it as your face... REAR Bridgestone tyre thats meant to last 8000miles See the scratches then balls of rubber? after i had to do a emergency stop and 4 miles to get home. which last i saw skin barely a a few centimetres. because a car had decided to stop on the exit of a blind corner in a 60zone...I didn't hit anything but me and the the bike thought holy S..... reason for the daft decision to stop there??? as there was a car coming the other way on a two lane back road , You can get wagons going through. On this rock hard rubber tyre after the front had to take over to do most of the work with a stoppie and it still did that... Without ABS The black line left behind a few days later was telling, just think if that was skin it would be to the bone and broken after hitting something solid..

Cant see Bond or a jaws riding it, maybe it was meant be be a punishment from Q to the lads by having to come up with something for it... Tinkicker has let slip he's stalking you.

Renthanal is pretty good and abit like gorilla glue, but you do need to use alot. hair spray is good as it doesn't break down the same as glues but you need to work really fast and it to be a tight fit in the first place. only thing about the silicone sealant is it will be easy to get off the bar but youll only beable to cut it off the grip if you make a hash of it to refit it... Fish isnt too far off wrong, sugar and salt were mainly ingredients in oldschool super glue, there was another house hold ingredient added but I can't remember just now.

Hi and welcome back. Yes we like pictures. id agree with the others with special note to megaross. the first pipe which will be on the right side of the bike is the drain pipe, it should be alot longer that just that but shouldnt be too much of a problem but all that will do is add more unfiltered air to the engine without The restriction. The ones on the left side (mirror rhe airbox) are the crank breather and return pipes connecting to the tank oil return just below the airbox. Which one? If you mean the one with the part rubber covering it and metal crimped sleeve on the left looks with the ribbs showing? looks like the choke cable. if you mean the 90 degree rubber pipe connecting to joint going up and to the left in the near background is a return pipe sometimes shared between to two carbs. These bikes are sensitive to the exhaust as the std ones were very restrictive, the new exhaust while still being road legal and baffled will allow more air flow with less back pressure pulling the air out too quickly, also id be surprised if the length is the same which has a effect too So it will run more lean. if the coils were goosed the plugs would be wet or aleast one worse than the other so the sparks are good. As Motoross says, spark plugs seem a little on the lean side, if its snatchy especially at low revs when it is running by opening, closing and then opening the throttle again it will be too lean. also dont put in E10 fuel. the pops and bangs were just a little bit of vapour reaching the exhaust manifold when the throttle is suddenly switched off as a touch of unburnt just goes through when the motor is moving slightly slower than the wheel. Which is why these older engines feel so smoother in the fueling that injections to this day, more so than an injection and tightening eu regs. unless it's doing it a lot and stupidly loud isnt bad for the engine or exhaust, thats just what happens back in the 2000's. it might be worth just setting the carbs to be atouch richer that what you've set them too now to offset the exhaust and if any unforeseen air leaks you cant find, run it for a bit and check the plugs again...

And up north. i think he's trying to convince himself, yes buddy worst weather in ages... got to go and pop out for some "cough" butty ... mean milk..

Fairly sure its injected? If the other peeps ideas dont work, look at the exhaust system. now this doesn't have a valve in the exhaust so thats rules that out. check over the whole system, joints, welds and connections including to the block, if there is a tiny hole it effects pressure. Lamba probe and wire. Just a list of other things that might not be on the bike but have this trait which might help other people: exhaust / cat box valve. TPS sensor. a temperature sensor in the air box. MAF sensors or their wires. reason being that low air flow and revs is actually harder for the engine and ecu to figure out whats going on than at full or even half revs/load.

. or when you park it, start walking and dont turn round to see that you dumped it in two bays...you shouldnt be driving

Yes well done!