RideWithStyles

how can I say without offending? CAT list are not log booked as all the log book says who is a listed owner of a vehicle is. This info is known through insurance and other records even a noob can find out with no money to exchange for info. HPI, mot, dvla, yada yada…..even I can find out a lot of shite out of a crap box with just a reg plate and im not in the game. Even small garages can and do pay yearly for a more extensive survey that goes in into more details- especially if they buy and sell bikes. All a mech or a garage needs to do is look it up especially if they smell a rat. generally once they open the can of worms it’s their problem to sort it but ull still have to pay for it.

They do the naughty little scamps, can’t trust their design or workers. Don’t tell fleck.

A actual theory is white or yellow for winter and multi coloured for summer.

it has to by law. RWS.

Done survey wouldnt use and defo wouldn’t pay for it. Sorry no real use to me.

Good morning.

Reminds me of a very similar bike (silulet) of the benelli leoncino apart from thinner RWU gaiter forks, a single caliper and disc set up, and a “styled” box frame swing arm.

Some wont service or willingly fix it either as its could be opening a can of worms. Personally I think that’s for the best, just keep looking, the right one will turn up not today or tomorrow but soon. least you’ll get an idea of what your looking for or need to in the mean time rather than be stuck with a manky piece of shite wasting resources fixing rather than riding.

The time table thing is real as it allows plenty of time to do the check and needs list that instructors need to do or try to teach, generally later in the day mistakes are easily made and retention lacks as learners tire quickly. Work safety boots are not ideal (not designed) certainly feel, control and ankle support lacking id say but unsuitable? I’ve seen far worse of kids/scrotes where manky trainers or flip flops . their old stuff is cheap and durable (to a point) as it’s expected a new rider that doesn’t have to respect the kit is very highly likely gonna get well worn, dropped and crashed in that doesnt have a long term owning for the learner so with that id wanna do the same. biking gear is a compromise, yes hot when no air flow but you don’t want to be freezing when your planning of doing slow and tight manoeuvres or 50+mph in 0-15*c with a wind gust/chill that makes it even colder by 15*c or more. if you want to know what a place/instructors or kit is like? might be good just research it yourself by turn up there for a hour or two just watching and asking while they teach others by looking from the outside before you commit to it?

Under the seat between the battery and the tank, generally. looks like this;

Tried the rebel not because i suffer with short legs or height but for different reasons. The low seat isnt the problem but the daft monkey/ape bars that are really high up compared to the seat is imo, i found the grom much more comfortable even though it’s a quarter of a bike. The guzzi v7 or even a benelli 500 leoncino was soo much better!

39 Injector (open circuit) Injector: open circuit detected. Lean angle sensor: open or short circuit detected. Check lean angle sensor and cable.

Yea the tyre says your riding habit is good and confirms little if no coast. pirelli is a soft to medium strength carcass not a hard one like Dunlops or Bridgestones, the only thing softer is Michelin. gt2 is a good all round tyre for any type- available on small to cruises if your thinking of is it too strong - it’s not, this is a CTangel which is a smaller tyre for smaller bikes and “lighter” riders but it’s small granddad which can have the same problem. will be down to five things- size, loading rating, carcass, compound and tread design. This tyres only mildly firm part is tread and most are long lengths which are inherently weak or puckered naturally unlike road 5 and 6s which are stronger. Id go with the book setting on the rear for now and see if that improves things. if the tyre is getting hot (slightly down on pressure) it will pop or reflex more (feeling like bouncing) as it’s getting hotter? Hence check with your hand. thing for you to think about is a few things, 1 if This is the factory tyre the book is referred to for its pressure. Nice it says 38front and rear, but for that is the assumption/recommended for who or why? was the test rider lighter or heavier than you? Riding in faster scenery or slow twin stuff? Was that tested in hotter conditions? With or without luggage or pillion? So the book is a guide but really it’s not applicable for everyone.

Most of the time Old cold oil is gives the impression of firm or thicker at first (because the molecules that keep it flowing have broken up but fill the volume) but very quickly turns thinner than new oil at the same moment as the same stuff gets broken down more so can’t control. Even if it’s warm ambient air temp, is still different to shock heated up in use temp so if its doing it now (not controlling the flow) it’s going to be even more apparent to the point you’ll either got to compromise of having it closed up from cold so it will be hard until it gets warmed up or you have to change it mid ride. Active, semi , manual adjustable including preload on this bike? Was all the pics after your last ride with after tweeks you did, if so what? And how many miles On these adjustments? how many miles has the tyres done now? In the pics the pressure isnt too low, what you been running it at? rebound isn’t terrible not the worst I’ve seen but supple as in no2, these design of Pirelli are good at hiding the problem so best way to feel the tyre. Palm on the centre tread and fingers down the sides, while gently touching rub along the circumference of the tyre.if you go rear (back of the wheel) to front and feel your palm and fingers drop as it goes between onto the next flat section that if so is lower down (pic 1 give a clue) then rub the other way back front to rear and if your hand and fingers catches the ridges which is where the (following part is taller) on the way back the rebound is definitely fast, if you see lips on the back of the tread it’s FAR too fast and excess wear is happening. Your riding habit is good. Another thing to note coasting (mid corner) can give lips on the tread On the front tyre it’s the reverse.

Ground anchor, doesn’t have to the biggest thing as these also depends on what size of chain (links) your thinking of using. 10mm is really the minimum. Oxford is a dependable brand for these things and not costing a fortune.

No as it attacks and weaken the lexan plastics. some of these hydrophobic coatings (many on the market and not really governed or regulated) will either melt/soften it but most of the time harden and brittle the plastic, it might not to mega obvious to the casual eye but trust me if you put a new and old one that’s been treated over its service time to flex or hardness tested you’d see it. And a stone shot at you from a car or hgv tyre can penetrate it.

Cool, a few pics of your rear tyre will confirm of this problem. Ones like these.

That’s the kicker, some now will refuse to start the car or not let you see the screen (speedo) till you agree with all its small print, which includes geo fencing, tracking and storing all data, etc which once agreed does away with any ideas,likes or thoughts you may have of what your doing or where you’re going to your own personal information never to be possibly shared with anyone.

Hmmmm, sure I’m understanding you? The yoke (top part) and the triple clamp (lower part) need to be slackened by the bolts on the sides (normally a 8-10mm size hex), raised up first through the triple then up to the yoke. Ensure you have the correct height from the top of the yoke to the flush of the cap - that houses the preload adjuster (if it has one).

Fade is one but the real cause of fade might be because there is no actual control of the flow so it builds up friction as it bounces too much, so heat, so fade. If the rebound (check compression too) is at 2 clicks out from fully closed (righty righty) try one or even half out, if its almost close /shut it seriously needs service and a better / thicker oil or a re valve or worst case a new aftermarket. if the preload to too low that will work the spring and the oil big time too, which as you said improved it for a short time but preload doesnt work like you think or might not actually solve it depending on what setting you have it at now and what it actually is doing as people interpret the same thing differently. All the preload main job is keep the springs starting point within a space of its travel allowance- in a basic form for you to understand. so if you have a ramp preload at 4 of 8, when u sit on the bike it sits/sags 60mm, from its unladen, it’s too low (unless you have a trail or enduro with super long suspension) so you’ll need to take it up a notch for two, you wanna aim for 40mm. Then see what the rebound and comps are at, when cold and you push hard down on the rear of the bike is it slow to return? Like soft foam? Or fast like it pushing as fast or faster than you gave it? If it’s pushing or bouncing then it’s too fast so slow the reboundown by turning it in abit till it doesn’t. Go for a ride to get it hot and do the same again, doe it return really fast almost like it’s pushing your hand back, then the oil is very goosed and requires a service and better or thicker oil. Sach ain’t bad really, which mv bike is it?

Some might have a star flange holding the thing in place that the bolt threads (the bar end is the bolt integration) through, now most if its really stuck in will be either straight fitted or cocked at an angle at the manufacturer but design they’re shite and damage the inside wall as they have to dig into the metal. If it is one of them you’ll might have to knock it out of the shape or bend a few of the arms just to allow space for the new ones, Though personally a new handle bar (good after market) would probably be easier. or they could be flared out so you just grip and twist to the left or right so treat them like a thread. the other is a glue and push in, so only thing is to go ape or a new handle bar. now from the officials aftermarket product it’s a bolt through probably that flares out so the original won’t be too far off that design, it’d say their expendable and man handle that bar end off.

That’s the inherent properties of the anti reflective coating naturally. for the visor on the outside if you have a pin lock on the inside, rain ex (this needs the water based one and not the car windows version) and nikwax does a water based hydrophobic coating, you could put them on your glasses but there effectively more for larger water droplets rather than moisture.

. The house isn’t mad, it’s just barmy people in it.

Kiwi is correct it’s all legal as long as it’s the correct size, colours and doesn’t cover the light or riders vision if it was a big proper screen, not the clock shield that you have there which is black and not visible through it anyway so you might aswell but the L plate there, must better, secure and safer. Wifes had it stuck on the screen/cowl on the cbf125f.

The anti reflective coatings that are a cost option that optician's offer are some what effective too.