RideWithStyles

Yep carbs, floats and seals is first check.

lol, Love the descriptions . wiggly worms or bacon strips as the yanks call them are my fave, seem to be the most effective when at the road side or trials.

As long as the valve is not close shut to get the control you want is ok but if its actually just been serviced and your at 1/8-1/4 out now with it still crap, its gonna be useless in 6 months/1-3thousand miles plus it will eat the tyre quicker so you’ll be paying more than twice for a shite job / base set up. If it is like that now send it back and tell them to do a better job, thicker oil or change the valve stack. another thing to check is if they have done two other things: if your using all the travel and the pre is near the bottom/wound in the spring is soft for your needs so they preload the crap out of it and your fighting the spring at a less progressive area but still lack valve control mentioned previously or the other way of too strong and lack preload so its at the top too much fighting a too strong set up…just for thought.

Hi and welcome. joys of a non specific forum is less hardcore follower one up man’s of I know more shite than you or how dare you you say one bad word of our holy maker! many here have had different brands, ages of bikes and experience so its more rounded with more giggles and less clicky group.

Lovely looking thing and so much attention to details with loads of milled parts and fabrications particular note to the rear hub . Just a shame they didnt do owt to the engine cases , with all that work to pretty much everything, now that does stand out.

Better than the last boat we went on, definitely more enjoyable than any before that .

Ours weren’t to bad years go but definitely changed the last few years, gotten to the point now that most people and businesses don’t want to send out important through PO. especially bad when they employ a person as a postie in our area that either couldn’t/wouldnt read the the addresses on the mail and randomly put them through different houses or totally different streets…..

As nick said generic fully adjustable foot peg and bracket will be your ticket. Gilles is probably one of the most famous ones, there are others but I cant be bothered to remember them. just make sure it a road legal one (for the brake light switch) otherwise you’ll be having to fabricate a mount for it. there are sliding rails, holed and cam lobe mounts, all have positive and negative. so why are you lowering and the reason? Just asking because another option MIGHT BE just to change the seat to a manufacturers “comfort” or re tailor so refit it with a thicker foam to raise you up?

Only one thing for it:

Exhaust? Hope you didn’t pay that?Shouldnt need that so id be asking What’s happened there? Only reason you do that is if it’s been dropped or rotted/degraded away which shouldn’t be the issue here. So its a cold running issue. If their theory is that then it shouldn’t an exhaust change but a sensor maybe. as bonio said its needs looking closer to the fueling/sensor or less likely the air/vacuum/oil system (pressure) which is why they suggest you leave it on idle (higher revs) for a few minutes to warm up. id be looking a the stark plug node for a clue if it’s a fueling issue- has/is it running too rich and choking it up which will look like wet black thick coating or if its pre ignition (where the flash/flame yellow ignited but too soon) it will be thick dry coating that’s what can happen with E10 if the bike can’t adjust itself to cope but with this age of bike with sensors it should do. another possibility is checking the battery in good shape as cvts and its system needs a good battery as that can cut it out. a volt meter that will tell you what its strength is and what its getting back from the system, With that checked it’s easier to narrow down possibles.

If aftermarket alarm/immobiliser especially on simple budget bikes the power supply and neutral will be taken directly from the battery but protected by a fuse. There maybe a safe ground wire that is attached to the frame, these type of bikes are very common for rusting under the paint also compromising the electrical system as a whole. Also check for cracking or worn wiring. its not out of the realm or possibly the recifier regulator has gone which is goosing and killing a good battery, ull need a volt meter and a bit of time to figure that one out. Another member might be good enough to post or if you look up the thread search into the instructions of how to do it. the other last potential and quite unlikely in this case is the stator.

Hi and welcome. great for you to get into biking but sorry you choose that Chinese bike. anyway it Sounds like a fueling, ignition or a sensor sensor problem, possibly a cvt but really at first thought with little info one of the earlier problems. i hate for e10 my own reasons but if its a new bike (whats its year?) that actually been designed for e10 from the off and its new without being choked up then thats not the reason. Just be wary that your dealer might just feed you bs just so they don’t have to fill a claim and fix it…just saying.

Correct also makes sense when you think about it.

Its a copy of a cbf. As husoi says immobiliser/alarm. Other is shortage from connection,loom or ground wire. reg rec, stator. But id be looking at how good is the battery first? Is it a new battery? second hand job? shite brand with a 100 or below cca? it will most likely be (or should be) a normal lead acid battery so you can use a normal battery charger that is ok for acids, gel etc, not lithium only spec. if none of those it’s a little bit more worrying.

I wouldnt go that low unless you lived in a really cold region with big boxer engines. if your gonna be using it warm spring/summer use only with towns, Stick with 50 especially as it has a fairing. a compromise is 15w50. normal 50s (semis) are not much more or if less than the fully synth 40s which is what you’d be doing if you really wanted to but really I wouldn’t! want to look after the engine stick to 20wt50, Even the 500leoncino had 10-15w 50. its not always the heat but how a big twin is different behaviour as it sheers and pluses differently to inline 4, got to look after the bearings, lobes etc

Wonder is advertising brand this one is? Anyone wanna take a guess?

I applaud them for it. At least it looks like a friendly set up at a nice looking local pub in the background while advertising your product (more life like relation especially if you’re trying to get a foot hold in that region!) plus a bit extra income for the pub, far better than flying a load of meat sacks and crap to a far away place in a third world/povity stricken place/huge disparity which is hugely wasteful of resource’s on a company that is relatively small. maybe they should have had a small pack for the random enquiry but most are set up on the internet, Nothing nicer than thumbing through a brochure than prodding and zooming in and out through a web page. shame about BF post but im not surprised, it’s difficult with well established brands that don’t want to change and theyve had years at it and huge resources.

Thanks Gero for the helpful info. I’m not an apple fan boi to go out saying apple is the best ever, it works well for us as a family which is convenient, yes it has had its odd hicks in the past but I have found it a lot less difficult and stressless than Windows/microsoft/xbox etc EVER has been, as it gets worse with every millionth crap patch or update and people still pay and put up with it. have to use windows at work and our IT department that also has an American in it (probably because the parent company only trust those with Stars and Stripes indoctrination process ) strangely doesn’t have a shrine for them, only a grave yard of printers, optiplex’s and boards in the room /on the desk, sooo maybe they were the latest sacrifices to the silicone gods .

. I can see it selling a few units and owners not getting abuse from everybody else. Not ugly but it proportions seem a touch off, like straw size forks, frame and swing arm in relation to the boxes and tank. Glad they didn’t bother wasting time or money with regen braking, Takes more than it gives. similar to kawas (japs) idea of pull out battery’s, which will work for some but not for others. I can see a large spat of nicking the batteries (easily done) will be potential down fall. glad it still has an onboard charge port but I think one with universal connection (type 2 or ccs - car world) hell even the early ones like chads would be a better choice of even charging out and about if you have too. personally I think they missed a bit more potential buyers if they fitted more battery capacity by filling the faux tank with another battery thats fixed (as a reserve?) Put the charger under the seat or in the tail (which it should have) but maybe that will be done for another model?

Hello and welcome.

Hi Robbie, welcome. Sharing information and help is greatly appreciated here.

Yes really, especially if they smell a rat. a local garage to me does it. Remember that if they look and start poking or moving to get to something they need to, disturbed something then it would start or miss firing viewed they broken something, it’s then their problem to fix it even when they haven’t done owt wrong. its mostly to protect the garage/mech from blame or fault.

Hi and welcome. great you still have the will and drive to ride.

Price will go down after passing, experience, and Ncb if you dont claim. Anything is fair game to the scum of the universe brigade - just that its generally few things that drive them to really act. 1, how easy/ risk to nick? 2, how much is it worth in relation to the effort? 3, how desperate are they? really what you need to balance is a bike you really need? Does anyone really need an r1? Or would a middle to small bike do the same job? £15k minter or a 3kused example?