RideWithStyles

Was it because of the plate or all the sticky tape holding it together? .

That bitter is that good it melts your head off.

Never knew they had problems with vigilante massive head phones trying to crush the bike and tiny (bubble) car.

Dont be so harsh and burn the mot guy.

Enfields (and the new ones) ain’t perfect. the very short service intervals, terrible welds, weird and old tyre size and tubed can be a negative which was Indian dictation. Some basic design and back up for parts are an issue but I’m fairly sure that will improve, even 3rd party stuff might come through. Great work and respect for Enfield to put mass commitment/money making a new engine and manufacturing factory for it. guzzis have bags of charm but the odd and weak part can really let you down. there is the still seriously poor dealer supply issue for parts to this day unless you live in Italy. If they or better yet if the parent group with they vast amount of money could be bothered to improve it and not piss around with other aspects of the business this would make more money without being a long standing industry joke, bloody Italians

Nice if they did admit it but as always doesnt matter if the driver or rider admitted liability, the view is from shock, gibber out through emotional state and not knowing law etc at the time of accident. coppers know this, so that’s the only reason they are very keen to chat as soon as possible especially to ask a few carefully chosen words of questioning to drop the subject in the shite before they clam up or think of a different scenario, obviously they know a regular or a trier with what reply they get. the purpose, said it in one. replacement helmet and clothing in insurance policy is a con for most part and not what you think, if you read the small print it’s riddled with bs. You get a new helmet replacement? Nope it’s not an old for new or exact replacement it goes off percentage of age. Have a cheap arai £500 helmet (*wow you big spender thanks for the money but you dont need this policy and didn’t read it they think) it’s 3 or 4 years old they will say it’s near replacement but the value of it £100, thats all we’ll pay you so have to fork out the difference Even though it’s mandatory PPE. Clothing is essential but if they have to pay out they like to see it as not *. Their requirements is to put you back in the same place or position previously (their is a Latin word used but I can’t remember it) but with that train of thought you just end up worst off but their a shite load better .

Yep as the others said, you might aswell go a full entitlement of bike licence unless there is something that might be a medical (foot/leg/arm/back problems), personal biological issue (short/strength), mental blockage (fear issues).

Hi Nutty. sorry that the scum took your bike even while at work, on its grounds. looking on and seeing if it could be avoided or at least discouraged, was it chained? What make and model of chain and lock? What route did you chain it? And what to? Post, anchor, fence? When/if you get another bike it might be good to get a small, even cheap gps tracker on it that might give you a chance of getting it back if it happens.

Hi Gus. Nice bike - any pictures pls? bikes, kit, problem solving, general chats or questions are encouraged, so add a thread or to a post. Friendly forum.

Brother and partner took the plunge on a narrow boat. Both love it, it’s been a very financial cost (whole ownership even to this day), time consuming, motional, painful that certainly not boring journey for stories to tell and one that they seem to justify for personal or mental reasons. I understand the charm and all that, also the reason they went for it, do I get it? yes and I respect that. would it ever be for me or my partner? I can’t see it ever happening even if we had the vast disposable financial backing to see it through.

Fluid and seals in the caliper and mc are the primary concern. Then pass and discs. remember motz are done cold.

The engine is designed and built in a brand new factory but has keeping with old views and ways which I said. Mostly designed for torque and easy going nature. the frame is British bdesigned and specs by brits which are RE owned of Harris and ex triumph engineers. it’s designed for other people, than jap owners and Italian racers. the other competitors in spirit are moto guzzi v7, Ducati scramber (pushing the ideal), and a few Chinese things. they are vastly different to many other bikes when released years ago just before the hipster stuff took off, right bike at the right time with loads of promos to help it. it was one of the few bikes I was looking at years ago but a good few negatives didn’t make it worth it for me. Bad bike no, just that you have to be the right person for that bike.

Never do that again is my advice. Anyway that is from natural variability in the chain, sprockets, crush,alinement, firing order and fueling. so the highest likely list is wear ,kinks, twists, tight spots, sticking, looseness etc from any or all of the above. the top will flap about more with no load (weight and transfer of force) as its passive brought forward to the sprocket to push the tyre round to begin the cycle again while you’ve got it in the air…don’t do that. most likly its the chain wearing then the sprockets and crush…. Don’t worry about it as long as it’s in spec for tension length (rise in mm mid point), longitudinal length (stretch) and not kninked or sticking.

Id go tracer that was kitted up if it was me.

Never believe any vid,promo, advertisement, anything from the manufacturer or paid for in any shape or form even the reviews. If I will be to the point- if you want the fastest thing- dont bother. if you want the best handling of its class-don’t bother. if you want great brakes- don’t bother. if you want the cheapest running for anything like service,pcp, parts or long services etc with owt with money-don’t bother. if you want the best built bike- don’t bother. If you want the best spec bike- don’t bother. if you want the most modern building it’s made in, but apart from the engine design is made to feel and look old but (based on old ideas ) but a new building factory- go a head. if you want still oldschool painting (hand pin stripes)- go ahead. if you are ok with old school frame biased design, tyres sizes&type while tubed (for most specs off memory - then go ahead. if you want hipster or looks pleasing at any none biker while parked up but at 12 ft while rolling to a biker then go a head. if you want to wear a piss pot, glasses and casual clothing- go head.

The many Round abouts near motorways.

If you want yob spec with barely if any legal then SP engineering. If you want class with potential resale value then akra, yoshi etc. if you want deep flappy low bass then zard or German made etc.

Yep Fliddles, in many areas like Lancashire/yorkshire have quite a few of them all a waste. that money would have been far better spent elsewhere….hell even repairing roads they can’t be bothered/ignore to do. Exactly SD- though I’m guessing it’s more of a default response of when tut is brought up because council didnt think about “them” while they were going through the process of at any time it all, sad and disgraceful! yet a cyclists can use it? Ill use the general commuter that doesn’t spend £5k on skinny carbon frame , brakes of milk bottle tops, wears paint on clothing for a bean pole with thighs of young Schwartznigger that might beable to keep a slow motorised vehicle within vision or not be a moving chicane. so a smaller and very slow mode of transport being less able to look behind them (no mirrors nor any legal need) still hunched over bars will still need to filter back at some point with a speed difference so vast is safer than the motorbike??? F********king retards. Another point id say is cycle helmets should be legal requirements the bare minimum end of, they save injuries and life’s after all! I have other ideas but it might be viewed as too radical.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c1346nz2ljro.amp. I will not add my comment yet but many areas have the same problem, pay attention to the figures/percentages the council give….

lol. Unless you have patriotic blue and white colour helmet, leathers, boots, gloves and bike but any body with reds and greens (English/welsh or Irish colours) will be removed from the event ……black is acceptable. jokes aside scenery looks lovely and I’m sure most of the folks are too.

Depend on the manufacturer and its design, driven winter and all seasons from Michelin and continental, bloody good tyres and if the correct tyre for the car the road noise is very minimal. Maxxis super max were very cheap and wear rate med to high with some noise but they were stupidly cheap so thats to be expected. Use those for winter? Id certainly wouldn’t. Their design isn't/very bottom of the list for winter cold weather probably one of the worst for it. they are sensitive to air pressure and suspension settings. if you want the quietist ride and use in winter I’d go in this order- Michelin even old pilots are very good and cheap. Road 3 and 4 are very sensitive to set up so weird wear patterns are troubling, road 5 don’t suffer the same way is probably the sweet spot of ability and cost within their range, Keep pressures high. Metzelers z8’s are cheap but newer is better some will say but only if you’re prepared to pay. Pirelli more sport than Metz / avons old designs are harder to get and they are ment to bring out a new range but will cost a lot more. So with that id aim for contis below over them for now. continental road attack 3-4.

yes. my advice would be to have the other one done too seeming as they are there just is disassembling and reassemble one fork, you have a touch more to pay including the parts but it shouldn’t be more than twice like if the other one goes in a few months. they will feel the same as the seals and fork oil will be the same grade,age,fiction and lack of degradation). No point in one leg old, tired and sticking etc while the other is fresh and slick is there?

Lot of white goods are Like cars- designed and made “for the factory assembly” screw everyone else. Products are then very time consuming to dis and re assemble , they are then costly to fix when you have to pay somebody’s time (lot of it) to earn a living to fix it which ratio to product is too high. unfortunately it turns to a particular issue of dump and buy, is it greener? The main or third party supplier and repair part of the industry suffers but the manufacturer wins.

Im happy to use manuals and are great but be warned when referring to them about suspension settings, a lot of them assume one thing or another, it doesn’t take into account for things like usage, weights, temps or wear (oil, gas and bushes, bearing) people preferring. the old triumph Daytona wasn’t too bad in its regard to some information but also read in the later versions of that bike were in my view dangerous and damn right wrong, the book says “the user is not to adjust the pre load under any circumstances”. So sorry fatty/fast/skinny/slow person you just have to put up with an ill handling bike we think an average nobody is and now a higher risk of crashing….well done triumph manual lawyers.

Bigger bikes clutch biting points (range of in and dis engage) is Much narrower. you’ll require less throttle and revs to move off and get going, less essential to be in the correct gear. Going fast than you expected is easier to do as you’ll be going faster with less revs so keep and eye on speedo and reference points. you can use the engine bigger pistons inertia to help balance and slow speed manoeuvres better. brakes might be better depending on the bike. This is very much a wide disparity between models and manufacturers let alone an individual bike. More/stronger steering inputs will be needed for the same effect, also to note the bike will need to lean over more to have the same steering effect/corner arch. Things that will be more or wear out quicker : fuel, parts, tyres, chains etc.