RideWithStyles

If the chain tensioner and the guides are in excellent condition and set correctly have you checked the chain condition and stretch?

These are knobbles the video shows the trail on the track along with the knobbies indents in the sand at various points so they are biting/digging. Also the very half sec in the back ground of the bike and tyres.

The bike insurer is a broker, have had some good results from them but really you’ll have to try quite a few till you get an idea as to where you are with them. Spoiler alert- it wont be cheap so don’t be surprised but bite the bullet and be careful.

Im guessing the one measure is the fill line? Make mine a double.

I know very clean cases….oh hang on you were meaning the Daydos…

Yes so think of it as a rim or drum brake arrangement - end of the cable will be attached through the cylinder part of the upper gold part with a small and weak spring? (If non is on the handle bar control )to pull the cable which will pivot the lower right side bolt that is attached to the black plastic part to move the choke. if you find a left handle bar mount with a choke lever say off a early gen cbf125 and use that.

Lovely looking machine.

They are excellent, just be sure to keep the pressures on the upper end of industry std which is F36 R40-41 psi range even if your book says 32-36 for example on a machine around or above 500cc+ 200kg+, check the suspension settings if unusual tyre wear is showing which can highlight even after a few hundred miles on.

Hi and welcome! nice machine, less common colour scheme off memory.

Apart from the many points previously, I can see many other potential problems. crushed/pinned/snapping/grounded/friction/paralyse of feet, knees, legs, hips, hands, elbows, shoulders, back and head being attached directly to the bike unless it’s protecting parts go a lot wider that the rider unless you go down the bmw C1 route of a full width flat floor and an roll cage…and how successful was that for bmw…then it will need cvt or automatic which most old buyers don’t want and they will be your main target in the market unless they can produce and prove it at the very lower price point which young city folk might just be interested? Also finally to note the pillion gets the old school of FA, sorry darling your getting flung off if we go down, you can join the exclusive fallers club. Thats if you survive being twatted by you pillion like a cannon ball as your fixed and they are hurled into you. this will be your next set of wheels with those ideas.

Hi and welcome, Q’s and A’s always welcome and not just bike related.

You can do, just you need to be very aware of what implications such things it has to the bike, what needs to be adjusted or changed and what you need to do differently with your inputs when you do dirt and have a pillion etc.

A very long time ago, legend has it that it was invented for such people by those people . I’m a fan of pinlocks! Avoid touching it and or rubbing it, especially when wet! clean both sides with running water only, shake off excess water and leave to dry naturally.

Agree but looking at a wider picture especially when your put in the scene, if the rider or pillion has injury or disability but still would like to ride in some form, it’s a half way house. one for the books statically they’d be less accidents, and possibly less speeding???

For amusement purposes- men spent much time in sheds to fix things that broke or worked loose cos they didn’t use one! jokes aside - back in the day engineering designs and tolerances we’re laughing stock, so they had to educate a tolerance (through many fails) cos they couldn’t make them properly/as fine today. Hence the old jokes if it’s weeping it’s still good, just keep topping it up.

I personally view centre stands at best as a service tool for doing chain, wheel, brakes, plugs, oil etc but just to be parked up the side stand is just easier and safe. just like anything a well designed one for the bike is good (depending on the bikes CM and weight distribution) but can still topple over on a centre stand, ive seen that before but difference is it can topple easily in more directions.

Fine to me /if we was looking for the provision for the wife as well. Id make it the green one. just that the wheels could be be more “flashy/standout? also that seat unit looks terrible, uncomfortable and the tank looks too small especially with that crap attached to it.

Why not go for a last/older generation of tyres like Rosso 3 or 2, Metz road tec 01 or even z8? They were great then and still great now, Save some bob.

Thanks Husoi. As he says. so brake it down: Rear left indicator power (brown wire in this diagram from the blubs in the mid level but right side of) will be linked to the front left indi power This will be joined further down the loom (just left of centre). The switch is bigger block bottom left. so in real life follow the front one and you’ll see the joint which the two needs to be at after which these will lead to and linked by the switch unit and that is connected to your handle bar switch. repeat on the other side. you shouldn’t need to be cutting any wires or original loom) just attaching the new indi wires to the old ones that is already there. Just looking at your picture - the other thing to check is that solid black wire from the indicator is a neutral and the one with the white strip is the positive. so you’ve got them the wrong way round.

Agree SD and I’m not a cruiser fanboy. those rims wheels are fab! Shame the rest of the bike looks old -particularly pointing at the tail/seat unit and tat slapped ontop of the tank.

Hi, Yes same as Husoi.

Difficult to know what you’ve done. Looks like all you’ve done is feed all the same from one point? A lot of bulbs to one line. but from what is there the yes they share a negative feed but that is all they do directly, the power they do not. Easier to ask yourself - how do you switch an indicator on when it’s not got the feed or the signal/switch to it to tell it? Left indi needs a left feed/power/switchand the right one to the right, those are connected but they will be further down the loom nearer mid point.

125s can reach over 70 even with 8bhp- some require a very cheap transmission gear change (front or rear spocket change £20). 300-500cc bikes will be more than enough- A2 bikes with 46hp nakeds will still push well over 110mph easy. id stick to twin engine configuration over 4cly as they require thrashing and high revs to work especially if weight is considered. smaller and lighter bikes are very cheap to run and maintain. avoid Chinese brands at all cost! Helmet fit it the most important thing, go to local bike clothing store sportsbike direct, j and s accessories, ghost bikes etc, they will help you in showing what you need to look out for and when trying them out keep it on your head for at least 5-10 mins to see if any pinching or pressure points develops. not a dealer as their range is very limited and costly.

Swing arm bolt. Some are double ended threaded, so if one or both sides are loose, left side has undone itself and shifted the bolt off set from centre, then the other side follows so the bolt has moved more, the movement and vibration of the swing arm moves it more.

Price is about right. Dont even look at a new bike, only buy used! kit buy on fit and useful features you require first, doesn’t always mean the most expensive, most of the time middle is the best.