RideWithStyles

from the usual understanding of us working with the EU lot (and the other way) that the company you want to deal with know the score and will already apply the charges or every thing known to them that will be applied YOU WILL ALREADY PAY FOR as that should of applied to the product(s) your buying for...really if its a big one off or very rere find its worth it but if its a readily available cheap product within the UK it generally not worth the bother or barely the saving... just from experience and our work place of dealing with the union dictatorship

Right.

Tin

After you have passed the cbt , A1 mod 1&2. yes the Lplates and go and you can carry a pillion but make sure your insurance covers "pillion". Just the same as cars : if you pass and have a license on an automatic/scooter you can only use an automatic/scooter. so you would have to retake mod 1 and 2 again at least to gain the manual/proper bike transmission.

have you check it's actually at std? more often than not they aint off the factory floor. so if you or nobodys knows : std fork pre will be 15mm from adjuster top to the cap(large nut below the rings) with the rebound 6. shock is 4 with the rebound at 1+1/4 out. now if the shaft is really clean, is the bumper kissed and smooth or has it leaving an noticeable imprint? if so id recommend you go up a notch on the preload and look at the front forks and see how much travel your using... you've only got the bike (and service unlocked) so i wouldn't rush to it if it was me. personally i'd leave it as is due to the "bread bin" is doing nearly all the sound deadening and removing that even to a sports cat can really make it awkwardly antisocial and annoying for any decent trip but each to their own. from the sounds of things you've already made you mind up and don't need the approval nor the poke of encouragement from us.

iamus

at least she couldn't use the menopausal as an excuse even if she wanted to...

and to relocate!

c

hmmmm. what preload and rebound is the shock at now? and are you using all it its travel? is the whole shaft shiney and clean or is there a little/huge ring of dirt on it? if so how far down is it?

lovely thing...would like that though im not a fan of the termi carbon exhaust personally. it will be worth even more now.

that would be best... we was more thinking this was a past time/sentimental value? if you in it for the money...you would of been best to stop before you bought it... do a proper research in the aspect of costs, parts, sourcing and if returns are required how much are you expecting back and weigh it up if you have not much experience.

how much lower is the link meant to do to the ride height?

ays.

Th

Not

lol .

prac

Thi

cant be bothered to type it so used this off the web... If your vehicle has stored a code P2301, accompanied by a malfunction indicator lamp (MIL), it means that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a high voltage condition in the primary control circuit of the ignition coil designated with the letter A. Refer to a manufacturer specific guide to determine which is the "A" circuit for your particular application. Primary circuits of the ignition coil are the wires which supply battery voltage to the coil. Voltage is delivered through fuses, relays, and various other sources. The high-energy ignition boot, spark plug boot, or spark plug wire is NOT considered a primary circuit. Typically, the ignition coil is supplied with battery voltage and ground. When the ground signal is interrupted (momentarily), the ignition coil emits a high voltage spark which also fires the spark plug. Spark plug operation is a necessary component in the internal combustion engine. If primary voltage to the ignition coil is excessive, high-energy voltage emission will not occur and the engine cylinder will not produce horsepower. Typical individual cylinder (coil-on-plug COP) ignition coils: What is the severity of this DTC? When a P2301 is stored, the cause should be diagnosed as soon as possible. Symptoms which likely accompany these codes will usually demand immediate attention. What are some of the symptoms of the code? Symptoms of a P2301 trouble code may include: Engine misfire Diminished engine performance Reduced fuel efficiency Other related codes Fuel injector operation for the affected cylinder may be disabled by the PCM What are some of the common causes of the code? Causes for this code may include: Bad relay or blown fuse (fusible link) PCM failure Open or shorted wiring or wiring connectors (wildlife damage) Defective ignition coil Faulty camshaft or crankshaft sensor or wiring What are some P2301 troubleshooting steps? You will need a diagnostic scanner, a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), and a source of reliable vehicle information in order to accurately diagnose a code P2301. You may save yourself time and trouble by searching for technical service bulletins (TSB) that replicate the code stored, vehicle (year, make, model, and engine), and symptoms exhibited. This information may be found in your vehicle information source. If you find the right TSB, it could yield a speedy solution to your diagnosis. After you connect the scanner to the vehicle diagnostic port and retrieve all stored codes and pertinent freeze frame data, write the information down (in case the code proves to be an intermittent one). After that, clear the codes and test drive the vehicle until one of two things happens; the code is restored or the PCM enters readiness mode. The code may be more difficult to diagnose if the PCM enters readiness mode at this point, because the code is intermittent. The condition which caused the P2301 to be stored may need to worsen before an accurate diagnosis can be made. If the code is restored, continue with the diagnosis. You may obtain connector face views, connector pinout charts, component locator charts, wiring diagrams, and diagnostic flow charts (pertaining to the code and vehicle in question) using your source of vehicle information. Perform a visual inspection of related wiring and connectors. Repair or replace wiring that has been cut, burned, or damaged. Wiring on top of the engine is often damaged by wildlife attempting to stay warm in cold climates. Use the DVOM to test voltage and ground circuits at the ignition coil in question. If no voltage is detected, check the system relay and related fuses. Replace defective relays and/or blown (or otherwise defective) fuses as required. If voltage and ground are detected at the coil, test the corresponding ground circuit at the PCM connector with the engine running. If ground pulse is detected there, suspect an open circuit between the coil in question and the PCM. If no ground pulse is discovered there, suspect a defective PCM, or a programming error. The P2301 is frequently stored due to wiring damage.

Eurosport, far more tangible as get bsb and world endurance though i wish they did more rounds else where. Spa was brill!

Yey

ag

HELLO! As Mickly says . take a sweeping brush and make yourself at home...you might just drag a few people back in with you. You wont see me on that section of thread, i'm not prepared to have or pay BT as a supplier nor TNT barstewards an extortionate price to see "a tiny flea pantomime circus" of a show if i put it nicely...my money and time can be spent/wasted on better things. Rant finished! hopefully see you on the other sections of this fine forum!