RideWithStyles

I was thinking the same thing as Bender, two filament in one bulb (one bulb does two jobs) does save space and especially cost but rarely better for it, honda 125cbf and many others including 600s has the same design. on the switch it could be the contact in the switch itself, if you use a electrical spray and give it a good spray to clean the inside. Best to to open it up carefully and give it a thorough clean and see it any the parts have become displaced.

Yeah gotta say its true with the above statements. We've been through it and no doubt many still want to be better at it even after years of riding. Sometimes overthinking it or just trying to nail a particular aspect just means you make mistakes and chase ur tail...

Sorry late to the party... wow good show, it should look a beauti when it gets done. Just on a note of Sand blasting, yes it is quick and easy with very impressive results if done right but you ideally need plenty of metal (solid) in in the first place. it is a really the top level of aggressive for removing surface, its very easy to hole or even completely destroy (turn it into metal particles on the floor) that swing arm in less than a blink of an eye. That swing is really soft and thin metal when it was new let alone 40 years and a hole or two added... id be sooo choosy in trusting to do that, only letting operator who has done these old bikes loads before, not just letting any sandblaster have ago at it! Its a pain and loads of time (you did say no time limit! ) but its the safest! Vapour blasters are safer on more fragile parts. just thought of other options for future are acid baths (like chromer shops, that do gravure rollers for instance) and maybe if the part isnt too fragile are sonic cleaners. For rare parts and info of these bikes might be good to start finding a trusted source / shop in or near japan (internet makes this easier) or maybe if there is a specialist that has the contact already? its their home market they do keep and value these old timers more than we did... looking forward on further updates on this build.

Welcome! As long as its metal and two wheels Im sure its fine...anything more will have go through the resident checker first Bender. .

Thanks bonio! Seems nice and welcoming with enough warm hearted odd balls to keep it entertaining! Been up, down, left, right, old and new with bikes in the past but currently on a GSF650s bandit...pew pew...yeehar.

Con

There are two now? I even still have the tshirt...

If so generally two small thinest black pipes coming from the bottom of the tank and follow them, the one you want will lead to the very bottom of the bike pointing to the floor most likly between the engine and the swing arm. See if there are any kinks or trapps. crap might have clogged it, you can clear it with a low pressure air or wd40 from the little hole in the top of the tank in the there will tvery small hole to the side next to the inlet that you fill with petrol .

Wonder if the tank breather is trapped of kinked? If you can open the fuel tank does tons of air rush back into the tank? Then close it back, and start it up again. does it cut out much later on but still does cut out?? Most likely is that but to test would be to leave the tank cap ajar and start it up again and leave it on idle, if it stays running beyond the last time its definitely the brether hose.

Agree with above As another choice could be GT85 (bit like wd40) its a ptfe spray. Just use what's appropriate for you area and use Its like chain lube wet or dry... If you live somewhere dry and sand a dry lube is best but if its wet alot a wet lube is best.

Welcome to the forum and to road riding.

Hello and welcome! well you've definitely thrown yourself in the deep end with that statement!! Im sure we can all together help out with knowledge to help you out.

Hi

JandS accessories does good and cheap stuff, sports bike shop direct does good stuff. Assume you are invisible to every other road user and pedestrian even if they are looking at you in the eyes. fit in helmet and clothes is first poirity! Flashy and fancy specs are at the bottom. pinlock for your visor is good, it it rains or cold days stops misting the visor! Look where you want to go and toull end up there, dont be target fixation. Dont be harassed by car drivers just cos they see the Lplate,. stick to the middle of the lane and dont be shying off to the kerb ur a fellow road user and have the right to be on that road too. 125 are quicker than u think...from your car driver past youll try to keep to the lower end of the rev range (3000rpm) 125s just idel at 1800rpm cos youll think as a driver not a biker, the 125 will only start waking up at 6-8000rpm let alone feel on cam!! keep checking tyre pressures at least every few weeks, bikes are sensitivto them unlike cars. Youll have more of the road to make use of, less wasteful box taking up all the space in the lane,so ull feel abit more exposed. Later on when ur comfortable in riding feel smug when u filter past boxes and angry van drivers. There are rules to it but your learning license experience (instructors and examiner ) will not teach you these. This is more advanced stuff but good to keep in mind when u get used to biking. On Straight roads of your lane keep middle of it, on left turn's and corners keep to the three quarters on the right side of your lane (closer to the middle painted line) and on the right turns keep to the three quarters of the left side of the lane (closer to the curb). slow into the corners, quicker out of the corners. look at far as you can and Chase the vanishing point.

Welcome! Sorry to hear of your poor experience! yes obviously not there first time!! the joy riding scrotes will have a go at the lock first to see if they can start it before the noisy grinding. hopefully u'll have more luck. have you thought of putting a immobiliser on?? That deters low end scum... even stickers off fleabay will make them think..

Hello. would that be chat with a T rex or a compy?

Yes must agree with those above. The old bikes generally didnt need much in the way of special tools. if uve got room and a bit of money to spend a sonic cleaner does a good job on cleaing bolts and brackets etc that always rust and cant get anymore. carb balancing kit.

Thanks Bender. p.s. Futurerama fan too... All hail the Hynotoad!

This bike is sensitive to chain slackness!! If its too loose it will do these, make sure lighten it up. On its Centre stand it needs 15-25mm on the lower but middle of the chain. check if the crush drives in the rear wheel are ok, they should be tight in place with no sloppiness.

Welcome. just out of curiosity whos info did you choose on youtube?

Yes got to say agree with all above. Its a choice not a majority have done, it has its pleasures and pains but welcome those who passed through those gates.

Some bike shops might beable to point tou in a direction of places to try for meets, some shops run monthly or so meets and rides. Then its just the case of just braving up and asking people there. Never know some neighbours or close locals can surprise.

Weight, size and presence will really jump out and will be noticeable before you start. biting points and area will be narrower, rev starting point will be lower. real bigger difference is throttle use will need less of and power bands to make progress will be lower too.... like sooo much less . Ive had all sizes and the misses still has the 125 which i get to play on now and again... Just do the course, when u pass and even if u think a 600 might be a bit much for now you could just get a fit 400-500 with 45hp which will still be a revelation and wonder why you didnt do it sooner!!!