RideWithStyles

Chrismas day or new years day treat is a panettone cake, the whole cake....MY PRECIOUS!!!

sounds like it could be two problems but ill deal with the most likelihood of this problem: when i turn the ignition on the bike will turn over but wont fire so i turn the ignition off and on again and it will start. im guessing this bike has an stock immobiliser, if you dont need a fob or button to use, so the transponder will be in the key, if this has moved inside or broken down and not touching the key metal it wont send the signal to the immobiliser. When u wiggle it it places it back to touching. The other possible though less likely is the connection or wire from the barrel to the immobiliser or even the immobiliser itself. On you idea of a toggle, you could try the motorcross route by having a magnetic switch that you mount to the handle bar hang with you keys. But ud still need to disable and unconnect the stock immobiler in the first place. But to be honest By the time youve hacked around the wiring to fit aToggle switch to the ignition, introducing another weak link into the already questionable/worn out component, tou might aswell just get another barrel and key...just to remember to switch the old transponder to the new key!!

Yep if trade animals wont touch it, even when they're being paid and its free there's definitely something bad! Lol

Oh and bender... bite my shiney bike... haha

Thats nowt Ill post a picture of mine and the misses key sets later, mine is with the garage having a mot and tyres done. and waits for the hire company to drop the fork lift truck so they can move the keys around the workshop

I agree with bullfrog and bender... apart from the evening of what bullfrog will do to JD's unsupervised ... the world is not ready for that mind warping possibility if it was shared with the world. just to add my wifes supr moist carrot cake is the best kept secret....shhhhhh! The Yorkshire wife would say that Yorkshire tea should not be tainted with foreign substances!! any other tea can have any thing put with it cos its so crap nothing can make it drinkable! Lol

Hi Isla, welcome! Nice looking bike, alternative to the norm for a good reason. Make yourself at home.

The only other engine possibles over the vtwin but are are better than the parallel twin for sound in my opinion is the inline 3s from triumph and recently the mt9... good torque low down and quite happy to rev out if you want is a smoother but still has low engaging vibes and the sound is say intoxicating. the daytona 955 i had sounded like a angry bear roar chewing on hornets and the sound engaged no matter what rev but under load omg!!! Bit like a race bmw e30/36 just half the size and very similar sound!

Yes as you say caterhams are good for two things and just wasted for every thing else. As u can guess now thats the thing when exotic or really wow bikes most are specialisted and you just end up with the caterham. There are a couple of bikes that arnt bothered about chancing the checkered flag but flaunt there looks and design is pretty much timeless, one that i alway remember is the broughs. Yep perfectly... from engine dynamics view: a vtwin will fit that best, bit like a American v8 or they can be smoother like a rs6 or mid term m5 in your car terms. The parallels are good allrounds but to some they dont seem to distinguished, a rougher or gravelly corse v10 like an latest m5 to a mid sized lambo). big singles are deep back roads, green lanes and off roads with plently of vibes like white finger and range from sowing machine honda 125 to 690+ of ktm duke or road works jack hammer. inline 4 are like well inlines...lol.

Agree with the others. Yes it can...down once at very low revs without much skill to do a reasonable job, doing down two or more in reasonable succession without muscle memory to match what is needed makes it quicker but jirker and if the fewer cylinders you have the worst it will feel if you cant. The bigger the the two differences the harder. Get it wrong with too much throttle to match will jerk the bike forward , goes neutral drive to moderate positive drive to back down to neutral drive as it Slows down up with the drag of forces. or defeating the object if not worse in the first place by suddenly and momentarily holding then suddenly having to speed back up like locking it up or part of the " backing it in" technic. goes neutral drive to high negative speed as engine is slower in speed, then has to speed back up to a neutral drive to match the speed of the bike it is going reducing friction drag as giving the drive shaft, slipper if it has one, clutch, chain, suspension especially the forks and tyre work harder than it had to the normal way. So as long as the throttle matches with Drive for the revs, but just being smooth with the clutch in the first place is simpler, better, and far more forgiving to just the clutch alone even if you just get that wrong.

Looking nice. yes still a bit of a niggle with the bm's micro switches, ill be surprised it its cheap with bmws general policy of supply a complete unit replacement only (bolstering there homeland supplier) if you was to replace it yourself. luckily its only the cruise and nothing real Important.

Not bad certainly a better direction for Honda. Some of the Colour schemes are certainly a bit more interesting than they have offered for many years prior. If the pictures are to be believed chassis is more pink than the forks red colour, similar problem to the big bang R1s around 2009. Use a detailing kit / compound and rewax regularly to hold the pinking and dulling at bay.

Thing with bikes is that the engine is a more engaging part of a whole ownership than say cars are. That helps or hinders the attachment (if you dont like the engine configuration). I bought a triumph daytona 955i as a bit of a bucket list of owning a litre bike but not set on looking for that bike in particular, it wasnt knowing a great deal about it from experience, it wasnt ugly but wasn't a wow bike even at the time when new around its competitors that were chasing the racing scene. this bike had a bit of a huccup before collection just to keep me wondering if it was the right call. turned out yes the engine was the start of the show and grew really fondly of the looks, went about its business in today life really well when the R1 would have been a liability and just a pain in the arse... if triumph did a modern one that was designed for real people and there needs id be interested to have a look. in fact i saw another one in the local garage today....ahhh.

Of course goat is correct with freedom and what not ill add.

Glad to be of help. ive thrown myself at the deep end early on, lets just say its a extreme learning curve with pit FALLS. The SV is a really good realistic road bike that even racers and hacks loved it when they had one... id recommend on watching you tube see BIKEWORLD sv650 about 3 vids on itvids, Chris will go through it and his past with it. The most modern version of the engine are very user friendly, still have some character, sounds great as a vtwin, great low down torque and good revs (1500-10000rpm) that can be revved out it you feel the urge! Lith like a ducati, its the closest to a ducati whicle not owing one. It takes a very very fast car to beat one off the line so no slouch. Still has a following and aftermarket parts are easy to find if youd be interested in making your later on. the engine presence is always low down. the inline two (parallel) of the gs8 is closer to feel and how it goes about things to a vtwin than the inline 4 (loosely) That pistons gentlly motions the bike left to right unless its a 180 degree (benelli and old triumph bonnies) which xase it just up and down but more central. The parallels are generally tighter from new so they take a good few miles to loosen up. To some these engines are like a inbetween, the allrounder, or just not a vtwin... inline four so super smooth but to some it can be devoid of character, depend on what your after. needs to be reved to make decent progress compared tthe other, Torque is very high up the rev range along with the power so it only really wakes up at 8000 and rushes to its 12-13000rpm. So youll wanna stick to 6000prm cruise or low gears town to keep the engine happy. scream if you wanna go faster...

With the fuel one in that manner is less likely the sensor itself but the wires from it or connector from the harness. yes electrical, harness/connectors. Whith the bike cold and id disconnect the battery while you do this. Gently separate any electrical connector blocks properly you see and have a little look at both ends... they should be clean (no furr, colours or deformation etc) and un damaged, if so positively reconnect, go through each one you can see. The dash connection will be a bad to get to but that might play buggers with the bike too.

Second motion on Frog. Not unlikely but Im less inclined with the breather as it seems more random, sudden to appear and just as quickly disappear. if it was the breather, generally it's woukd be enough to completely stop drive for more than afew sec , it would more likly vacuum its line dry to a stop and wait until the engine stopped and pressure is reduced and try start the engine again. depends on if owt else happens that you might not notice at first, are all the dash lights fine when it happens etc? Battery, are the cables really fastened properly? cheak other bolts round the chassic like ground / earth wires. Fuel pump connector, Give any connections you see a good push in.

Dropped the bike off for mot'd and change the terrible flintstones to some actual tyres! certainly for less than what Bonio paid ouch, For that price id want free whiskey!

Probably within the the pile of rust....

Stock tyres that come on bikes are generally poor imitation of the manufacturers real, readily available and cheaper to buy aftermarket version. built to a low spec and performance forthe lowest price possible.

if its brand new bike you spend first 600 miles running it in riding it like like a scooter. I did that in less than 6weeks on the previous bike in not too mild march to april without even trying. Just for gauge i use the bike on pleasure sundays for a hour maybe two if lucky with family commitments and british weather up north, in less than 6 months i can do still do 2000+miles. So less plastic fanastic bikes would be ccm and the not mental fast but swankily expensive Brough Superior. I really get it ido but putting it REALLY short, Pretty much all wow bikes hate pottering and if you make the most smallest mistakes which will be easy to do with lack experience will punish you or hurt you. My advice would be give it a few years of experience on a good "MEH" as you put it first, then pull the trigger afterwards at least then your have a better idea, experience and will be cheaper.

Wow a new engine already... what did he do???? Sound like a shorting of the electrics/battery to me, particularly if the battery is being drained so fast. have you earthed it and the engine correctly to a fresh grounded contact? id go through every contact with the frame, check every wire going around the frame and to any connector going and the coil... Chinese bikes are rusty little things, had one myself, even a "premium one" was brown for it....

Second jrh. oxford products, analogue with flexihose.

Think it would be if you placed the deposit first in advance and they asked for the allocation from kawa europe it would happen. sure the racers and the flush track dayers usually get hold of them, thats their usual customer bracket.

Look scary at first but with you being a new rider on expensive new bikes id thought they would be even higher!! 1500 miles in a year even in a 6month window, 250miles a month or 62miles a week. Is that enough? yea upper the mileage with a new rider just means higher risk for them. all depends on your income and how much something is worth to you as which way you want to fly with that..also how quick you are at learning riding and how to ride them.. obviously if i was to give advice the more logical would be the sv. its cheap, fun to ride on the roads -its a vtwin BABY!! will look after you while u learn riding and definitely within your limits. the monster will be more focused and less learner friendly than the sv, ktm more so again and the bar keeps raising after that for the others. are u buying out right, pcp for how long etc? That may swing things again.