RideWithStyles

Good

i try to pay at pump where possible so i dont have to get off the bike at all but if so no fuel comes out or owt. Always sat on and level to fill up. nosle fully in, till trip out, lift in stages till its near the neck level or if its the cbf to the bar bracer. cap on and off... never had flames or flicks.

Who the heck is that with? (broker and under writer) sounds too good... .

sounds more like just because rather than actual reason of suspicion? your bike could of just gone into limp home mode...sooo doing the limit even at hgv speed raises a suspicion? damned if you do damned if you dont. two years isnt a new rider... unless you'd only ridden a hand full of times in the period. Anyway shouldn't make no difference to him. pillion cover on policy been about for donkeys years, even before i was riding. me personally i wish they treated it like a car...if its got a seat then its legal to assume to use and have it regardless... the rear tyre is a little bit square but not that bad! michs r's (and metz rt02) well known to have abit of a flatter crown than some other makes from new (helps with wet road weather) - if that was on a super corsa 🫨

Hi! projects posted are most welcome!

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well they paid for the job not the time.

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the reason of the akra map is a bit extra fuelling used as the std is toon lean to get pass EU bull shitterry . so if your bike is a bit snatchy and hot running throughout the rev range and your happy with dealer spec service then keep to it, if you guy can map for your bike as individual with its aftermarket parts too (ie with a rolling road full custome map them id do that over the dealer especially if toy have to pay for the dealer to do.

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yes pretty much no point doing anything to the steed...if looked after will last a very long time. it wasnt the question but maybe their are other options/bikes that you haven't thought? have you checked the insurance of the HD yet? the reason i suppose is that the earlier ones were simpler, lazier engineering, cheaper because they never changed much as they still just rode on the name it was and people were still buying them rather than the more recent versions. if your happy to pay them a premium for one, id still check it over myself with a fine tooth comb just to ensure its a prime example, rather than the manky one left and forgotten one in the corner. research that parts are available for it (how much and where for common and uncommon parts) of that bike and the cost of their services then for what its due. well you have the best of both worlds. a official dealer with connections to the supply network if you need official parts etc, and the unofficial one (will be cheaper to service as the labour count alone will be less, get to know them and they tend to be less flippet on charging you odd things just to keep you happy to come back) that doesn't need to follow the book if they know and most likely will know if certain parts are a weak point and avoid those offical ones and sources aftermarket ones if they know their better...same in the car world.

sorry but the honda steed only has 30hp and roughly the same torque but weighs 205-225kg= slow...but its an oldschool 400cc pig iron cruiser so thats to be expected... well the harley is more to buy so you're drawing more attention to yourself an dthe bike as its more exotic? harleys are not quite as reliable, electrics are middling because they avoid putting anything to it so save R&D and fitting (cost), cost more for parts unless your in the USA. they have some unusual quirky parts and fittings (odd size bolts with lack or symmetry) that can really annoy even a seasoned mechanic... so the question becomes can you fix anything yourself and are parts readily available where you are? is there a dealer/supplier for HD bits close by?

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wow yep you dont need to ask, just take the dang money and do it.

right easy then. so start at the first point. fluid and res, lever, master cylinder, hose, lever, master cylinder, hose, caliper, pistons, pins and pads..

one thing to pass a test that is made up to try to simulate something of what happens in rhe real world, it's completely different to one that actually tries it out in the real world... test are very one sided... so Aria will test a blunt force test of say a stone slab at X Knm of test as mostly you'll either twat your head against a car or tarmac which is hard and flat so blunt force truma...where as sharp with do a anvil or a spiked test at the same...now some will say unless im being attacked but a nutter with a ice pick or pick axe is that relative? the shell of a organic layered shell that requires specific labour intensive work of say aria or shoie is very strong but does a spiders web of distribution of the forces tocthe surrounding shell rather than transmit to the foam so the wave length of the force is different so the eps is better equipped. now if your more modern tech of thermoplastic or other sythnic type, yes the shell itself is stronger of the pointed force but it transmits the force directly to the foam padding below, so the shell might look good after having a stabby thing at it but the eps had taking more of the force and certain wave lengths directly to it, better hope that foam is real good shit cos otherwise your brain gonna be very messed up. even if the thermo has been designed to absorb and distribute the force more, the eps has to be really well developed to cope with the certain nm wave to cope. just to say none is super bad but the results only show/reflect for that a test is for consistency, if it's relevant is up for discussion or someone's perspective.