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Posted

OK, I'm a very newbie rider. In a car I can brake approaching a junction, hold the clutch in, and, if it's a Give Way/roundabout etc. select the appropriate gear for my speed and carry on. Alternatively brake to a stop and select first and carry on.


What's the best way of doing these on a bike?

Posted

In my limited experience, what you do will probably differ depending on what bike you ride.


I'm on a 125 & I tend to go down through the gears as I'm slowing down & hold back from vehicle in front so I can gauge which gear I'll need to pull away. Inevitably on the 125 that's 1st gear!! :roll: :lol:

Posted

I tend to approach in 1st gear, bike is a bit unsettled at low revs in 2nd plus being in 1st means I have power to pull away if traffic starts moving. Also get nice engine braking ('tis a 600). I wouldn't coast up to the junction with clutch held as the bike is more stable with drive on the back wheel, the same applies to the car but you're not balancing on it at the time so get away with it :D

Posted

same as in a car, you will get used to it in time, although saying that, for the past week i have found myself changing down too fast and locking the back wheel. Its always best to be in a higher gear that needed so it doesnt lock up. Although this will mean you dont have as much power setting off, but you can always change down one or two when stetting off again (i still do that on rare occasion)

Posted

Yes, depending on your bikes engine and gears approach the junction in 1st, maybe 2nd so you can either stop or continue.

Posted
same as in a car, you will get used to it in time, although saying that, for the past week i have found myself changing down too fast and locking the back wheel. Its always best to be in a higher gear that needed so it doesnt lock up. Although this will mean you dont have as much power setting off, but you can always change down one or two when stetting off again (i still do that on rare occasion)

I used to do that, nice bit of fishtailing. Trick is in blipping the throttle as you change down, takes a bit of practice but well worth it. Will stop the back locking up but still give you nice engine braking.

Posted

I use 2nd to approach and then if need to pull away quicly slip it in to 1st.


On approach go down through the gears and never coast incase i need the power to manouver or get out of trouble.


Stu

Posted
same as in a car, you will get used to it in time, although saying that, for the past week i have found myself changing down too fast and locking the back wheel. Its always best to be in a higher gear that needed so it doesnt lock up. Although this will mean you dont have as much power setting off, but you can always change down one or two when stetting off again (i still do that on rare occasion)

I used to do that, nice bit of fishtailing. Trick is in blipping the throttle as you change down, takes a bit of practice but well worth it. Will stop the back locking up but still give you nice engine braking.

 

Yes,I agree with this..... I found myself changing down later and faster then having back wheel problems on occasions from excessive engine braking..now i have learnt to smooth the whole thing out by blipping the throttle to match the engine more and it allows me to carry the speed through if i want to or use more controlled engine braking or normal brakes if required

Posted

Thanks guys and it's my fault for not being clearer, but what I really want to know is this. Do you go down through the gears in sequence, engaging the clutch for each gear and using engine braking, or do you use the brakes to lose speed, disengage the clutch, and then downshift with the clutch disengaged until you select a gear appropriate to your speed?

Posted
Thanks guys and it's my fault for not being clearer, but what I really want to know is this. Do you go down through the gears in sequence, engaging the clutch for each gear and using engine braking, or do you use the brakes to lose speed, disengage the clutch, and then downshift with the clutch disengaged until you select a gear appropriate to your speed?

 

On a bike, I change down and utilise engine braking, block changing when appropriate, so that by the time I reach the junction I have pre-selected the required gear for a smooth transition between braking and accelerating.


I ride a VTR so I sometimes have to remember to show a brake light to let others know I'm slowing as the engine braking is s bit fierce!


In a car, if you engine brake you will fail your test. As Roadcraft says "gears are to go, brakes are to slow".

Posted
Thanks guys and it's my fault for not being clearer, but what I really want to know is this. Do you go down through the gears in sequence, engaging the clutch for each gear and using engine braking, Yes or do you use the brakes to lose speedYes, at the same time as going down through the gears, disengage the clutch, and then downshift with the clutch disengaged until you select a gear appropriate to your speed? No
Posted

In a car, if you engine brake you will fail your test. As Roadcraft says "gears are to go, brakes are to slow".

 

Surely that can't be right. 8-)

 

It is right.


I had to completely retrain my own driving method to pass the ADI Pt 2 driving ability test last year :roll:

Posted

In a car, if you engine brake you will fail your test. As Roadcraft says "gears are to go, brakes are to slow".

 

Surely that can't be right. 8-)

maybe its because you need to give road users behind an indication that you are braking, otherwise it is no different to braking without a brake light, and that's illegal

Posted

In a car, if you engine brake you will fail your test. As Roadcraft says "gears are to go, brakes are to slow".

 

Surely that can't be right. 8-)

maybe its because you need to give road users behind an indication that you are braking, otherwise it is no different to braking without a brake light, and that's illegal

 

I don't think it is, it's illegal to have a light which isn't working though. But that's all it is, an indication. Just like indicators, brake lights shouldn't be taken as gospel that they are braking. If you slammed on your brakes every time the car in front lightly pressed their brake pedal.....


I rarely have to use my brakes. Plus, isn't it more fuel efficient to use engine braking? I read somewhere that excessive braking and acceleration is a big fuel waster.

Posted

The brake light can be illuminated by covering the brake. It's a useful way of communicating with other road users. Isn't it ancient wisdom that all that an illuminated indicator/brake light means is that the bulb works. 8-)

Posted

I think the question is not about engine braking but gear changing while aproaching a junction, do you apply the brakes then hold the clutch in and change fom 6th to 1st etc at the last second or let the clutch out for every single gear on your approach, (which would give you engine braking)? even though on a bike it's a sequential gearbox is it ok to go from 6th to 2nd say while holding the clutch in?

Yes it is ok to change more than one gear while holding the clutch in but when slowing down whether for a junction or not IMO it's alway best using brakes and changing one gear at a time, don't need to let the clutch out fully but this way it tells you what gear you should be in should you need to set off and avoids locking the back wheel up. If you need to stop then you can always hold in the clutch and change the last couple of gears into first ready to set off from a standstill. This is what I was taught at the riding school hopefully it is correct and you find it helpful.

Posted
I think the question is not about engine braking but gear changing while aproaching a junction, do you apply the brakes then hold the clutch in and change fom 6th to 1st etc at the last second or let the clutch out for every single gear on your approach, (which would give you engine braking)? even though on a bike it's a sequential gearbox is it ok to go from 6th to 2nd say while holding the clutch in?

Yes it is ok to change more than one gear while holding the clutch in but when slowing down whether for a junction or not IMO it's alway best using brakes and changing one gear at a time, don't need to let the clutch out fully but this way it tells you what gear you should be in should you need to set off and avoids locking the back wheel up. If you need to stop then you can always hold in the clutch and change the last couple of gears into first ready to set off from a standstill. This is what I was taught at the riding school hopefully it is correct and you find it helpful.

 

Thanks AdeyT. Thats what I have been doing and I find it works OK. I tried changing down through each gear and using engine braking but to do it I had to start well back from the junction and ended up too slow, still some way from the junction :( This way I mentally count the gears as I go down through the box so I always know where I am.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

You don't Automatically fail yr car driving test for engine breaking, however it is right gears to go breaks to slow, but This includes acceleration sense, if you keep a good distance between you and car infront and look well ahead, you can avoid using breaks by reducing your gas. Then once yr speed has been reduced then select an appropriate gear x

Posted

You don't Automatically fail yr car driving test for engine breaking, however it is right gears to go breaks to slow, but This includes acceleration sense, if you keep a good distance between you and car infront and look well ahead, you can avoid using breaks by reducing your gas. Then once yr speed has been reduced then select an appropriate gear x

Posted

No, you don't block change like that on a bike. You can if you want but it is a sequential gearbox and is supposed to be used sequentially, you remain in much better control, and are ready to go when you need to go if you are already in the right gear, as opposed to having to count 1.2.3. as you drop it 3 gears and then let the clutch out and hope you picked the right gear.


Don't do it because you worry about what gear you are in, I had this conversation with my son and if you are riding along (or slowing down) and the engine is neither bogging nor redlining, but sat nicely where you want it to be, then does it matter if that is third,fourth or fifth? With experience you will know from the sound of the engine whether to change up or down, and you will also know when you are in top so you can stop trying to change up.


I do now and again clutch in and then drop the last 2 gears into first as I roll to a halt, but that is about it.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Brakes £50

Engine £5000


In a car I like to wear out the cheapest parts fastest! I can't comment on a bike I haven't passed my module 2 yet lol. Track days in a car you down shift as you break because it helps to prevent locking a wheel and helps balance the car. I assume you can do similar things on a bike with experience?

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