Uncle Meat Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Well it's finally happened... Whilst doing a basic oil change the other day the sodding drain plug bolt went loose when I tightened it. I don't need to eloborate any further.None of the local bike shops will touch it so I have to attempt a helicoil myself... So just to reassure me can I just double check things with you fine people.Its a 2007 ybr 125 and I have assertained that the drain bolt is an M12 x 1.5 Does this sound Correct?I have sourced this kit off fleabay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-Piece-Thread-Repair-Kit-M12-x-1-5-x-16-3mm-Helicoil-Type-/260920878571?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cc018a5ebWill this do the job?I have watched all the youtube videos and read all the availiable bumf on the net and feel ready(ish) to tackle the job.It seems to me the main points are - 1. Make sure you drill straight.2. Make sure the tang doesn't fall into the engine.3.use grease at all stages to catch stray swarf.As you've guessed im doing it with the engine assembled as splitting the casings is well beyond me.and I think if i'm methodical and do an oil change right after I should be ok.I will drain the oil and lie the bike as flat as I can to do the job and intend to fit a new magnetic drain plug once finished.Have I forgotten anything?Many thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastanglianbiker Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 laying the bike flat will let any alloy drill swarf to fall away from the sump hole which is not a good thing as ir going right to one side of the engine it could remain trapped there untill you run the engine again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Meat Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 I hear what you are saying but I was worried about getting the hole drilled straight.Maybe the best bet would be to start the drilling with the bike on its side and then stand it up to finish the job.What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Does the sump pan not come off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Meat Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Sadly not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastanglianbiker Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 no sump on a ybr stu the plug is into crank cases Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Gutted for ya then! I would go with laying the bike down with a nice strong hoover as you drill and remove the crank breather if it has one to allow air flow through the engine to the Hoover it may help to keep the swarf out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattycoops43 Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 I would be swilling it out with some oil and letting it run out the plug hole a couple of times after drilling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joeman Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Ok, thinking a bit 'outside the box' here, but could you not weld a nut over the hole??maybe even use a big blob of that Chemical Metal stuff??ive heard of people fixing cracked sumps with it, no idea how long it would last though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Meat Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Ok, thinking a bit 'outside the box' here, but could you not weld a nut over the hole??maybe even use a big blob of that Chemical Metal stuff??ive heard of people fixing cracked sumps with it, no idea how long it would last though... How would I change oil in the future then?I've heard helicoiling ain't so bad to carry out?Can anyone tell me if the kit I mentioned above will do the job?Can I use the same size bolt after? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joeman Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Ok, thinking a bit 'outside the box' here, but could you not weld a nut over the hole??maybe even use a big blob of that Chemical Metal stuff??ive heard of people fixing cracked sumps with it, no idea how long it would last though... How would I change oil in the future then? Weld the nut over the hole, to allow a bolt to be screwed in and out for oil changes.So find a nut and bolt, place nut over hole, apply loads of chemical metal around the nut to bond it to the sump - no drilling, no chance of swarf falling into the engine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tankbag Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Good luck, with care I reckon you'll be ok, I had a sump plug come loose once but a local bike tech did the helicoil repair for me, plus I use a wired sump plug now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Meat Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Ok, thinking a bit 'outside the box' here, but could you not weld a nut over the hole??maybe even use a big blob of that Chemical Metal stuff??ive heard of people fixing cracked sumps with it, no idea how long it would last though... How would I change oil in the future then? Weld the nut over the hole, to allow a bolt to be screwed in and out for oil changes.So find a nut and bolt, place nut over hole, apply loads of chemical metal around the nut to bond it to the sump - no drilling, no chance of swarf falling into the engine... Not heard of that one before? anyone else tried this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joeman Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Not heard of that one before? anyone else tried this? Nope never tried it myself, just a crazy "outside the box" idea that might save an engine full of swarf.. Try this link though, other people fixing sumps with chemical metal.http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic ... -metal-fixIf it sets hard enough to allow you to tighten the sump plug (and you can test that when you tighten the bolt) i see no reason it why it wouldn't last... just an idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joeman Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Not heard of that one before? anyone else tried this? Nope never tried it myself, just a crazy "outside the box" idea that might save an engine full of swarf.. Try this link though, other people fixing sumps with chemical metal.http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic ... -metal-fixIf it sets hard enough to allow you to tighten the sump plug (and you can test that when you tighten the bolt) i see no reason it why it wouldn't last... just an idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Meat Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Cool thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Meat Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Just reading on the net. Some bikers are using these (even before they have problems) -http://aggracing.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=75I could chemical weld it in place and never have to remove it again... Just drain via a tube directly into an old oil can.ebay listing for the above - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stahlbus-Oil-Drain-Valve-M12-x-1-5mm-Thread-/190726555023?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c6830458f Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Meat Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Ok having given it much delibaration I have decided the best way to go is to A Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve (see link last post) and chemicaly weld it into/onto the sump. It doesn't need to come out as you drain it from the end via a drain tube.No chance of drilling at the wrong angle, no chance of swarf getting into the engine either. I don't even technically have to drain the oil if I lay the bike on it's side.They don't list my bike but as my nut is an M12 x 1.5 and they sell M12 x 1.5 then I don't see a problem? Does anyone else?If the chemical weld leaks (which I hope it won't) I suppose I could always have it welded on. Would that be argon welding?I will have to wait until I have a day off (ages yet) but will take pics and let everyone know how it go's... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megawatt Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 You may be lucky with the oil drain valve as long as your sump thread is reasonably intact and you get a good chemical metal or Araldite bond. Would certainly avoid any further sump thread problems! Personally I don't think you will have a swarfe problem if you do a proper fix with a helicoil. If you apply grease to the drill when drilling the old thread out and when tapping the helicoil thread, 95% of the swarfe will stick to the grease! Any swarfe that goes into the sump will stay there or if it gets picked up, there is usually a gauze filter on the pick up. Alloy swarfe is not normally a problem unless it gets into your clutch and you have an oil filter to stop that happening. Steel swarfe could cause more problems, but would still probably not circulate far from the sump! Once drilling and tapping is completed, pour oil in and allow to drain a few times into a filter/funnel and inspect for swarfe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Meat Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Thanks for the advice megawatt but I still think the valve is the way to go.If I degrease well and then some more, sand the surfaces to make good contact I think all will be hunky dory.The thread is reasonably intact so all should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joeman Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 How far will the valve poke out?? any chance you might catch it on curbs etc?snapping the valve off could make a real mess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megawatt Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Good luck mate. Can you post pix of thread before you glue valve in? And when you've finished? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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