Tiggie Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 though first round the allen hole off a bit more, he likes a challenge Quote
mealexme Posted March 4, 2013 Author Posted March 4, 2013 Only suggestion I have is to post me it I would, but need it to get to work on wed... I may need to borrow a mates bike to get to work lol Quote
Guest Hodgy Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 This is a perfect example of why not to buy cheap tools! Watch the video Alex and see the type of long nose mole grips the guy is using, then go to Halfords and buy some and also a Halfords professional range 3/8 drive hexagon (allen) key set and flexible handle, you can add sockets and torx and anything else you may need as time goes by, but these will prove indispensible in your 'fettling' Your calliper doesn't actually look that bad, a few doses of WD40 or better still, Plusgas, and a bit of wiggling and you could get lucky Quote
mealexme Posted March 4, 2013 Author Posted March 4, 2013 This is a perfect example of why not to buy cheap tools! Watch the video Alex and see the type of long nose mole grips the guy is using, then go to Halfords and buy some and also a Halfords professional range 3/8 drive hexagon (allen) key set and flexible handle, you can add sockets and torx and anything else you may need as time goes by, but these will prove indispensible in your 'fettling' Your calliper doesn't actually look that bad, a few doses of WD40 or better still, Plusgas, and a bit of wiggling and you could get lucky watched the video, managed to get the molegrips I have to fit (they wouldnt close small enough, but I put a spacer (nut) in the mechanism) but they just twist and dont grip. They are a decent pair aswell. Been soaking in WD for hours now too. Whacked it with a hammer a few times. The tools dont really matter, I have a spare bit that broke. Quote
Guest Hodgy Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 The tools really do matter, cheap tools aren't made to the same tolerances as quality ones, and will damage and round the nuts and bolts you're trying to remove, causing more problems and more expense in the process! Again your moles are twisting and not gripping because there not the right tool for the job I think you need to send the caliper to Stu to fix properly for you Quote
megawatt Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 So you aren't gonna try heat and cold to free the pins off then? Quote
Stu Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 If you read his posts all he has is a hair dryer for heat! Nothing stopping him going and buying a blow torch though Alex don't hit it too hard with a hammer the caliper is cast and can easily crack Quote
mealexme Posted March 4, 2013 Author Posted March 4, 2013 If you read his posts all he has is a hair dryer for heat! dont think it will get hot enough lolNothing stopping him going and buying a blow torch though Alex don't hit it too hard with a hammer the caliper is cast and can easily crackif it cracks easily,is it safe to drill? I'm currently trying to source a drill bit off a mate lol Quote
Tango Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 I use a Hot Air paint stripper gun.....works fine and is less likely to set fire to something than a blow torch...... I think Hodgy's comment on using PlusGas is a good one....WD40 isn't a penetrating oil...... Quote
Tango Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 Alex....be very, very careful when drilling it.....if you snap a drill bit off in there you are well and truly fooked...... Quote
Boothy Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 If you give up with all this... watch this!"> Its what I did and it works great IMO. Quote
mealexme Posted March 4, 2013 Author Posted March 4, 2013 So you aren't gonna try heat and cold to free the pins off then? I do have an over though! Anyone think it will work? If so, what heat/length of time d'ya think would do it?Or would putting it in the over fook up the seals or boil the left over brake fluid and destroy its innards? Quote
Guest Hodgy Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 I don't think the oven will do the seals any good at all Quote
Voodoo Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 Alex, why go through all this when you can just buy a secondhand caliper for £20 Quote
mealexme Posted March 4, 2013 Author Posted March 4, 2013 Alex, why go through all this when you can just buy a secondhand caliper for £20where from? looked on ebay and its £90, plus I really need it on the road soon Quote
Guest Hodgy Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 Will a second hand caliper be any different though??? Quote
Voodoo Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 Alex, why go through all this when you can just buy a secondhand caliper for £20where from? looked on ebay and its £90, plus I really need it on the road soon Try item number 111020297643, tell him its in bad condition and make an offer (Tell him you can buy a good one for £20). Once you win it, send it to Stu and tell him its your original and let Stu recondition it into a new one for you (It'll only cost you the postage!)Get it back, fix on to your bike and put your original caliper on ebay for £90, then treat Stu to a drink next time you see him Quote
Mrbarry Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 Put it in the freezer for an hour in a plastic bag, boil a pan of water, dunk it in. The different metals will move at different rates and it will help a lot. The bag will keep your freezer clean and the water out of the brake fluid Quote
Stu Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 if your going to buy another caliper then the TL1000s and r fit as do a lot of gsxr so you can widen your search Quote
megawatt Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 I use a micro blowtorch to heat alloy around seized bolts and pins. When it's stinking hot, I spray Plumbers freeze spray on it. I do this three times as I grip the pin or bolt and gently waggle it until it is free. I've never been beaten yet!!! Quote
Guest Hodgy Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 Cut them off in the middle, pull them out and replace them with these....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GSF-600-1200-BANDIT-SRAD-BUSA-SILVER-STEEL-REAR-BRAKE-PINS-FOR-TOKICO-CALIPERS-/251224386099?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a7e23ea33And some Copperslip Quote
Mrbarry Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 Noooooooooo, silver steel rusts like crazy. Standard are coated. Buy standard or stainless. Quote
Guest Hodgy Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 Noooooooooo, silver steel rusts like crazy. Standard are coated. Buy standard or stainless. Do they?? Try these then http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-BANDIT ... 4386099%26 Quote
Mrbarry Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 I have loads of silver steel that I used to make dowels with and yeah it does. tbf I dunno if it's as bad or not as normal steel but after a few years in a dry garage it was deep orange/brown and pitted to buggery. So I wouldn't fancy it on a bike where it will get salt and water on it. It has a very good grain structure tho and machines nicely lol. Quote
Stu Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 Its not the steel you want to worry about its the holes in the caliper as its alloy and when it corrodes it expands and grips to the pins like there is no tomorrow Quote
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