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Posted

I finally got round to switching over my number plate. It was supplied with long screws and screw caps, not only do I find the sight of long screws pointing at my tyre out the back of the plate irsksome but there’s no way they’re going to stay put, they go through the plate and the much larger plate holder holes with nothing for the screw to anchor to.

So I need some small and short in length nuts n bolts.


Question- If I used a 4mm screw bit do I need 4mm bolts and if so where might I find some the right length?


Thanks

Posted

Number plate screws are normally M6 - get the plastic ones and you can get nylon nuts to match, if you need them. Get 'em from any autoparts shop.

Posted

Number plate screws are normally M6 - get the plastic ones and you can get nylon nuts to match, if you need them. Get 'em from any autoparts shop.

 

Thanks, they supplied wood screws?!

They were (are?) probably self- tappers....but if you've got the M6 holes, I would go for proper number plate screws. You might have to enlarge the holes in the new plate to suit, but not a big job......

Posted

Well it wouldn’t have been difficult but because I didn’t like the look of the supplied screws I also used the fixing tape provided as well so now the number plate is well and truly stuck to the back plate which doesn’t look like it will stand up to being pulled apart. Drilling it where it is would be dodgy, it would move and the surrounding plastic on the back plate around the holes is thin.

I don’t trust the tape on its own and don’t really want a hole in the number plate so I think I am looking for small short length nut n bolts :?

Posted
...Drilling it where it is would be dodgy, it would move and the surrounding plastic on the back plate around the holes is thin.

But if the plate is stuck on with double-sided tape it shouldn't move if you drill it.....just use a 6mm bit and go carefully. You will find the nylon M6 nuts have a 10mm head and a cast flange to spread the load on a thin backing plate.....just hold the nut in place with a 10mm spanner and tighten the screw carefully. You won't need to go gorilla on them.


Have a look here:


https://www.halfords.com/motoring/number-plates/number-plate-accessories/halfords-number-plate-fixings-hfx106?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=-xwwarwqati&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:868641090|agid:44240686536|tid:aud-297219198129:pla-368707294216|crid:204164410005|nw:g|rnd:8538749252893506667|dvc:t|adp:1o2|mt:|loc:9045556&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1Oyuhv7C3gIVAbDtCh3jsgVJEAQYAiABEgIuRvD_BwE

Posted

[mention]Speedy23[/mention] Thanks. I meant the flex in the whole thing rather than the the plate on it’s own, you know when the drill bit goes through and thing pings back at you while it’s still spinning . Like you say will likely be fine it’s done slowly.

The instructions were very specific about drilling from the back to not from the front to prevent cracking, spose a bit of tape on it will do the trick.

Posted

Surely you just need some number plate screws , like these

WP_20181107_23_45_32_Pro.thumb.jpg.00df1a5981413da65e75874e4f4c72eb.jpg

Posted

Big question is, which bunch of incompetent morons supplied a motorbike numberplate with self tapping screws??

Posted

That is what I need and I’m gonna get some today. Annoyed that I’ll have to drill the numberplate whilst on the bike (from the front which is not recommended cos it can cause the acrylic to crack) but really I should have realised from what I was looking at it was wrong, I was rushing to get it done before the school run :oops:


Demon plates sent the fixings.

Posted

That is what I need and I’m gonna get some today. Annoyed that I’ll have to drill the numberplate whilst on the bike (from the front which is not recommended cos it can cause the acrylic to crack) but really I should have realised from what I was looking at it was wrong, I was rushing to get it done before the school run :oops:


Demon plates sent the fixings.

 

I drilled zillions of plates during my Halfords years. I always put a bit of wood under the plate and drilled from the front. Doing it any other way sometimes resulted in the reflective film tearing.


Just take it easy and let the drill bit do the work - i.e. don't lean on it.

Posted

Yeah, bit of wood behind and drill slowly from the front. That's how I've always done it. :cheers:

Posted

Just align the drill nice n straight.

Take it steady. Make sure the drill is not on hammer setting and crack on :thumb:

Posted

Perhaps one of the men on here could come round and do it for you .... so it's done properly :thumb:




:popcorn: :popcorn:

Posted

And make sure It's going round the right way .

Posted

Perhaps one of the men on here could come round and do it for you .... so it's done properly :thumb:




:popcorn: :popcorn:

 

Ooo yes I could ask a man then in a year or so’s time give up waiting and do it myself anyway...... :D


:popcorn:

Posted

Nope, immediately after saying “right I’m off to do the job” a boatload of real work came in, I ran out without a coat and (don’t tell six this bit) big girls blouse I am got so cold by the time I finally finished decided a hot shower n cup of tea and a nice biscuit was a better option :D

Got to Halfords for the plate screws though so tomorrow the plate will comply or die :thumb:

Posted

I would not recommend taking biscuits into the shower. You might get away with a Bahlsen if you keep it chocolate side up .

Posted

Put a pilot drill through it first

 

... and I always use a bradawl to put a small mark in the plastic to locate the pilot drill if there's no pilot hole to start with. You'll be OK drilling from the front - just do what others have said and go slowly. Let the drill do the work.

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