Head bearings help

[Mickly]

I’m fitting new head bearings to the Trophy.

Having got the outer bearing cups seated in the head stock, I can’t get the lower bearing race seated on the steering stem.

Haynes says use a piece of metal pipe ( which I haven’t got )

I tried a piece of plastic pipe which got it far as ‘stuck’ but started to crumple.

Any smart ideas?

 

 

It’s on square - looks on the piss due to where I masked the steering stem when I painted the lower yoke.

[Guest Richzx6r]

Erm do you have any bits of fence post that you could bore out the centre to fit around the shaft, just don't bore all the way through as you will need to hit the top square in the middle, that might work?

[Stu]

Get the old bearing and remove all the bearings so your left with the inner race, then cut a slot in it and use that to push your bearing on and with the slit use a screwdriver in that to remove it again!

A nice long piece of wood held against the stem helps too

[Mississippi Bullfrog]

With things like that I usually warm the bearings up a bit and put the stem in the freezer beforehand (but we have access to a big freezer) or dip the stem in iced water. Basically get the stem as cold as possible with the bearings warmed up. The expansion and contraction usually helps.

[Stu]

Like so

 

[fastbob]

Put the stem in the fridge and the bearing in the oven .

[fastbob]

With things like that I usually warm the bearings up a bit and put the stem in the freezer beforehand (but we have access to a big freezer) or dip the stem in iced water. Basically get the stem as cold as possible with the bearings warmed up. The expansion and contraction usually helps.

 

Sorry , skipped this post , basically offering the same advice .

[dynax]

Put the stem in the fridge and the bearing in the oven .

 

How long before the stem sets?, and do you have to baste the bearing during cooking

[fastbob]

I’m fitting new head bearings to the Trophy.

Having got the outer bearing cups seated in the head stock, I can’t get the lower bearing race seated on the steering stem.

Haynes says use a piece of metal pipe ( which I haven’t got )

I tried a piece of plastic pipe which got it far as ‘stuck’ but started to crumple.

Any smart ideas?

5ECDAE4A-55F3-4AE6-970F-CEB6A619108B.jpeg

It’s on square - looks on the piss due to where I masked the steering stem when I painted the lower yoke.

 

I've got a 3 foot piece of standard scaffolding tube I can pop round this evening . I'm not sure whether it would be too big but if you have something to use in-between the bearing and the pole you're welcome . I don't know the diameter and I'm at work right now.

[Mickly]

I’m fitting new head bearings to the Trophy.

Having got the outer bearing cups seated in the head stock, I can’t get the lower bearing race seated on the steering stem.

Haynes says use a piece of metal pipe ( which I haven’t got )

I tried a piece of plastic pipe which got it far as ‘stuck’ but started to crumple.

Any smart ideas?

5ECDAE4A-55F3-4AE6-970F-CEB6A619108B.jpeg

It’s on square - looks on the piss due to where I masked the steering stem when I painted the lower yoke.

 

I've got a 3 foot piece of standard scaffolding tube I can pop round this evening . I'm not sure whether it would be too big but if you have something to use in-between the bearing and the pole you're welcome . I don't know the diameter and I'm at work right now.

 

Thanks for the offer [mention]fastbob[/mention] but I’ve ordered a piece of pipe of the correct diameter (34mm and 1.7mm wall thickness so will fit over the steering stem) off eBay for £6 it’s being delivered Monday, not much chance of doing anything before then due to family based shenanigans

I’d have taken the rest of the advice as well but ..

1/ I chucked the old bearings away ages ago

2/ Now it’s stuck on I don’t want to risk damaging it taking it off to freeze / heat.

[fastbob]

Put the stem in the fridge and the bearing in the oven .

 

How long before the stem sets?, and do you have to baste the bearing during cooking

 

What's your preferred method of fitting bearings then ?

[dynax]

Put the stem in the fridge and the bearing in the oven .

 

How long before the stem sets?, and do you have to baste the bearing during cooking

 

What's your preferred method of fitting bearings then ?

 

Never fitted any, not had the opportunity, but i'm sure the day will come

[Mickly]

So the piece of stainless pipe turned up & is just the right size

Mickly’s patented head bearing press.

A few whacks later

 

Sorted

Thanks for all the advice that I’ll try and remember for next time.

[Stu]

This pic is from 2009 I might have to sue you for pinching my patent

 

 

I just never mentioned it as I thought you was in a rush to get it on and not willing to wait for parts

[fastbob]

So the piece of stainless pipe turned up & is just the right size

404FAE75-F8A8-4C44-A7DE-9AC3D13A41F6.jpeg

Mickly’s patented head bearing press.

A few whacks later

372D3923-3A22-4C74-BB1B-BFAA4DE1446F.jpeg

Sorted

Thanks for all the advice that I’ll try and remember for next time.

 

So Triumph use those wretched Torx bolts as well ! Horrible things , especially the button head variety . There's no depth to them to get the Torx bit all the way in . I'd get rid of them if I were you . It shouldn't be too difficult on a metric bike .

[Mickly]

So the piece of stainless pipe turned up & is just the right size

404FAE75-F8A8-4C44-A7DE-9AC3D13A41F6.jpeg

Mickly’s patented head bearing press.

A few whacks later

372D3923-3A22-4C74-BB1B-BFAA4DE1446F.jpeg

Sorted

Thanks for all the advice that I’ll try and remember for next time.

 

So Triumph use those wretched Torx bolts as well ! Horrible things , especially the button head variety . There's no depth to them to get the Torx bit all the way in . I'd get rid of them if I were you . It shouldn't be too difficult on a metric bike .

 

Absolutely!!

I’m replacing with cap head Allen bolts where I can - the bolts in the pic are there to protect the threads while painting the yolk.

Worse are the suspension & engine mounting bolts, which although the heads are deep enough are a fine (1.25) pitch, which is making getting suitable flanged nuts to replace the mangled ones taken off really hard, especially at a reasonable price.

[fastbob]

So the piece of stainless pipe turned up & is just the right size

404FAE75-F8A8-4C44-A7DE-9AC3D13A41F6.jpeg

Mickly’s patented head bearing press.

A few whacks later

372D3923-3A22-4C74-BB1B-BFAA4DE1446F.jpeg

Sorted

Thanks for all the advice that I’ll try and remember for next time.

 

So Triumph use those wretched Torx bolts as well ! Horrible things , especially the button head variety . There's no depth to them to get the Torx bit all the way in . I'd get rid of them if I were you . It shouldn't be too difficult on a metric bike .

 

Absolutely!!

I’m replacing with cap head Allen bolts where I can - the bolts in the pic are there to protect the threads while painting the yolk.

Worse are the suspension & engine mounting bolts, which although the heads are deep enough are a fine (1.25) pitch, which is making getting suitable flanged nuts to replace the mangled ones taken off really hard, especially at a reasonable price.

On the Harley the bloody brake disc ( rotor ) bolts are the aforementioned button head Torx . Hopefully I'll never need to remove them but I wouldn't rate my chances if I did . The strangest ones are the calliper mounting bolts they look like Torx bolts in reverse but it turns out that they are .... well I don't know what they are actually, but they fit inside an M10 twelve point socket ! They're probably designed to encourage owners to take the bike to a Harley dealership .

[Guest Richzx6r]

So Triumph use those wretched Torx bolts as well ! Horrible things , especially the button head variety . There's no depth to them to get the Torx bit all the way in . I'd get rid of them if I were you . It shouldn't be too difficult on a metric bike .

 

Absolutely!!

I’m replacing with cap head Allen bolts where I can - the bolts in the pic are there to protect the threads while painting the yolk.

Worse are the suspension & engine mounting bolts, which although the heads are deep enough are a fine (1.25) pitch, which is making getting suitable flanged nuts to replace the mangled ones taken off really hard, especially at a reasonable price.

On the Harley the bloody brake disc ( rotor ) bolts are the aforementioned button head Torx . Hopefully I'll never need to remove them but I wouldn't rate my chances if I did . The strangest ones are the calliper mounting bolts they look like Torx bolts in reverse but it turns out that they are .... well I don't know what they are actually, but they fit inside an M10 twelve point socket ! They're probably designed to encourage owners to take the bike to a Harley dealership .

 

They are probably the reverse torx head bolts, you can get torx sockets which will fit it.

Using a normal socket might lead to rounding off if its abit tough to remove

[fastbob]

Absolutely!!

I’m replacing with cap head Allen bolts where I can - the bolts in the pic are there to protect the threads while painting the yolk.

Worse are the suspension & engine mounting bolts, which although the heads are deep enough are a fine (1.25) pitch, which is making getting suitable flanged nuts to replace the mangled ones taken off really hard, especially at a reasonable price.

On the Harley the bloody brake disc ( rotor ) bolts are the aforementioned button head Torx . Hopefully I'll never need to remove them but I wouldn't rate my chances if I did . The strangest ones are the calliper mounting bolts they look like Torx bolts in reverse but it turns out that they are .... well I don't know what they are actually, but they fit inside an M10 twelve point socket ! They're probably designed to encourage owners to take the bike to a Harley dealership .

 

They are probably the reverse torx head bolts, you can get torx sockets which will fit it.

Using a normal socket might lead to rounding off if its abit tough to remove

 

No . They are exactly as I have described them and they are NOT reverse Torx bolts . Torx do not have 12 points for starters . An M10 twelve point socket IS the correct tool to remove them . It's a perfect fit and I have already successfully removed and replaced the bolts with it .

[Guest Richzx6r]

On the Harley the bloody brake disc ( rotor ) bolts are the aforementioned button head Torx . Hopefully I'll never need to remove them but I wouldn't rate my chances if I did . The strangest ones are the calliper mounting bolts they look like Torx bolts in reverse but it turns out that they are .... well I don't know what they are actually, but they fit inside an M10 twelve point socket ! They're probably designed to encourage owners to take the bike to a Harley dealership .

 

They are probably the reverse torx head bolts, you can get torx sockets which will fit it.

Using a normal socket might lead to rounding off if its abit tough to remove

 

No . They are exactly as I have described them and they are NOT reverse Torx bolts . Torx do not have 12 points for starters . An M10 twelve point socket IS the correct tool to remove them . It's a perfect fit and I have already successfully removed and replaced the bolts with it .

 

Well I stand corrected