New Motorcycle Shaped Object..

[Tinkicker]

Awwwwww betty swollocks.

Tried some new hycote super duper high tech extreme temp satin black paint.

It has dried to a very matt looking, mid grey colour. Looks like the inside of a self cleaning oven.

It looks absolutely pants.  Whoever decided it was a satin black needs a white stick and a Labrador to help him cross the road.
The exhaust has an appointment with the blast cabinet tomorrow lunchtime and my usual PJ1 fast black paint is ordered.
What can I say, tried to save a couple of quid and got burned.

Buy cheap, buy twice.

[Tinkicker]

Well the RXS100 cable was the right length and we now have a front brake.  The barrel nipple on the bottom was a 8 x 8mm instead of a 8 x 10mm.
A trip to the vice with the brake cam lever to close the fork by 2mm sorted that.

The fly in the ointment is the slightly overlong aftermarket speedo cable.  It gets in the way of the brake cable in the cable guide on the forks.  Not a biggie, but stuff like that annoys me every time I see it.

[Tinkicker]

Another piece of the puzzle drops into place rather unexpectedly...

Bearing for the sprocket carrier arrived, rear sprocket arrived and the assembly was duly put together with a new collar that goes twixt bearing and the chain puller, the old one worn rounded at one end.  I put it down to the carrier nut being left loose to facilitate the lazy mans way of chain adjustment as mentioned earlier in the thread.

On stripping the sprocket carrier, I took note of the seal size and ordered a replacement, which arrived today.

Whistling a happy tune I went to fit it.. What the bleedin hell, the collar would not fit through.  Collar was waay too large.

I looked at the number on the new seal.  26x42x8.  I looked at the number on the old seal... 26x42x8.
I scratched my head a bit and picked up my calipers to measure the collar.  30mm.
My new collar must be incorrect then, picked up the old one...30mm.

Hmm.  It all becomes clear. 
Someone has fitted the wrong size seal in the past and forced the old collar in. Instead of the seal rotating on the collar, it gripped and rotated the collar against the chain puller.

New seal of correct size ordered.  Ces't la vie.

Collar has been rotating against that chain puller for a fair while..
 

 

[Tinkicker]

The exhaust has been blasted clean of the horrible paint and is waiting for the PJ1 fast black heat resistant satin to turn up.

Had a look at the seat with a view to painting the base.  It had light surface rust in patches.  It looked like someone pressure washed it fairly recently and blew the paint off in patches.

The "saw teeth" holding the cover on were in very sound condition, but the stitching on the cover itself was rotted.  The seams broke apart with very little pressure.  No chance of getting it off intact and no point not continuing to remove it.  Rotted seams will not mend themselves.  Shame because the cover itself was in good condition.  No rips or marks.

Once the cover was off, it was discovered that the foam was glued down onto the base, so my idea of blasting the base at work was scuppered.  I had to clean it up the traditional way with wire brushes.

Base has had a couple of coats of enamel, as has the removed hinges and other fittings.  New seat cover has been ordered.  An expense I was hoping to avoid.

Another expense I was hoping to avoid.  The sprocket carrier shaft and nut.  The correct size seal arrived as did the new chain puller.  So got it all built up and on the bike.
Tightening the large shaft nut, it was obvious that the threads were not up to the job, they tightened up enough, but felt like they were about to yield.  I had noted they looked a little worn previously, but I had hoped...

Since it is a big safety issue if those threads yielded under a shock load, no way can they be deemed roadworthy and new ones have been ordered.  I had tentatively planned on new but was really hoping the old would be good enough to continue using.

That sprocket carrier assembly has turned out to be the biggest and most expensive problem so far.  The only original parts are the casting itself and the sprocket bolts and nuts.  New sprocket, carrier bearing, seal, spacer collar, chain pull, stub axle and nut.  Cost is probably close to £100 just for that small assembly.

Finally came across an unobtainable item missing off the bike when purchased.  The engine sprocket cover.  Found a NOS one in Thailand, took a leap of faith and ordered it.  A long way to ship.  Close to another £100.  
When I bought the bike I expected ebay to be awash with them.  Not so.
Of course, now I ordered one, ten secondhand ones will appear on ebay at £5 each, one selling from an address just down the road...
My plan B was to fit a RT100 plastic, one piece left cover, but they too are now unavailable.  I remember back in the fleet days, paying £12 each for brand new RT100 left covers from Yamaha, so it was a shock finding them rare as hens teeth.  We used to fit new ones on every full annual rebuild, just to brighten the bikes up and match the new paint.

Its been quite an expensive week.
 

Edited September 30, 2023 by Tinkicker

[Tinkicker]

Rustoleum paint has arrived and rear brake backplate has had about five coats of the stuff.

Meanwhile the rear sprocket carrier nut and shaft arrived.  As with all things in this hobby, it pays to do ones homework.
Both items were available for purchase from Yamaha, but a little research and shopping around gleaned the same NOS part numbers listed for sale under a different model at a good saving.

I think the shaft was listed as a LT5 part and the nut as a early FS1 moped part.  Saving over buying from the dealer was around £15 and that includes shipping.  With a tight budget on this build, that £15 will pay for the rear brake shoes.

Added up what has been spent already and I am already £450 into my estimated £900 budget and I have the engine parts, bodywork repair materials, small.finishing off parts and tyres to buy yet. 

Just ordered the tank decals at £50 for a set, not too bad, but it is amazing how those £10 here and £15 there insignificant parts add up to a big bill.
I think it will probably be finished right on budget, unless a I come across a nasty shock.  I can do without any more paint failures and ill fitting aftermarket parts though.

Rear sprocket carrier finished.  It cost nearly 3x what I had originally hoped for, but safety comes first. Always.

Seat pan refinished and cover fitted.  Not a professional job by any means, but is workmanlike.  Once again, amazed by the condition of the fittings.  The seat lock looks almost new, but all it has had is a scrub with my nail brush and Carex hand soap.

Again, looks OK.  Not brilliant, but fine for this bike.  It is not intended to be a councours d'elegance contender.  Left sidepanel also cleaned up and fitted.
 

[GojuRyu5]

Mate That’s looking really good, and a great job on the seat.  You’re right about the costs, I suspect that I’m over budget on my first build, which is a combination of not understanding the level of work involved, and maybe not having all the tools and ancillary bits and bobs for which I have bought sets (grommets, O-rings, etc… and will be useful in the next one). Avoiding paint disasters - agreed. That adds necessary time, cost and frustration .

 

Your reflection on the aftermarket parts has been useful. I bought a few parts from WeMoto early on and haven’t got around to checking they match - I hadn’t appreciated that there may be differences in cable length and fitment, so this is something I’m going to have to face into in the near future. I already know that the new exhaust I bought has a bracket that doesn’t line up with the original, so I have to think of a workaround. If there are other issues, that could cost £100 in sourcing alternatives .

 

Thanks for the continued narrative, I’m learning from your experience and appreciate the tips.

[geofferz]

Well you know what they say about project budgets (same applied to timelines) 

 

Got a rough budget? 

 

Good, now double it. 

 

Got your new budget? 

 

Cool, it will be a bit more than that. 

[Tinkicker]

New rear wheel bearings fitted ( SKF). 
A quick word about wheelbearings in the smaller sizes like 6301.  Often you come across a " bulk buy opportunity" where the bearings are unbranded and come in a plastic tube of 10 or so for a very cheap price.
Avoid Avoid Avoid.  They are cheap rubbish, often constructed from stainless steel, instead of correctly heat treated bearing steel.
I once conducted a trial of these bearings on fleet, a tight parts budget ( £10 per bike per week) necessitating exploring any and all money saving avenues.
A wheel bearing generally lasted about 2 months on fleet, depending on park conditions.  Those unbranded ones did not last much more than a fortnight even in summer when the park was relatively dry.  Poor tolerances allowed water ingress past the seals and the poor quality steel could not take the constant pounding.
By the time of the winter quagmire, the bearings had been tossed in the bin.  I doubt they would have survived a week.

Always buy branded bearings from a good maker - SKF, Koyo, SNR, NSK, FAG ect.  Cheap is not cost effective in the long run.  Buy cheap, buy twice.

So, pontificating over with.  Back wheel refitted and she is finally standing on her own two wheels again. 


Wheels just fitted loosely, they will be coming out again for new tyres at the end of the build, but still an important milestone.  That front fender is vexing me.  It had an arrow pointing towards the front, but looks like it is on backwards.  Needs investigating.  Either the stay is slightly bent, or I managed to put it on back to front despite the arrow.

 

[RideWithStyles]

great job by the way, enjoying the thread!

Not an expert with this bike but it looks correct from the picture.

Guard wider and longer at the front past the head light... sod the engine and frame getting pletted but did a good job at not spattering ur face with fling even when stood up.
where as more modern bikes and road spec went a different trend with opposite effects.

Edited October 4, 2023 by RideWithStyles

[Tinkicker]

The engine sprocket cover has arrived from The Far East.  Remarkably fast delivery.  I am waiting for deliveries from the UK ordered before the cover.
Although it is not a genuine part, it looks to be a remarkable copy in alloy.  I was expecting some kind of 3D printed plastic part.

I came across another correct for the US 1977 DT100  Mikuni 1T9 - 60 carb on ebay.  It looks to be in better condition than the other I was watching and is £20 less.
It is winging its way to TK towers as I write...

 

When I stripped the original carb to inspect it and put it in the ultrasound bath, I noticed that the main jet had been "tuned" presumably by the owner kid and his mates back in the mists of time.  Looked like it had been drilled out with a masonary bit.  It was scrap.  Also noticed the fibre gasket was missing from the float valve.  Ordered one and on fitting it, discovered that the kid must have overtightened it in the past and stripped the thread.  The fibre gasket had been removed to get a bit more thread into play..... Blast it.

I have an inkling that these two "tuning mods" were the reason that the bike was put away for 40 odd years.  It must have run like crap with no power and puking fuel everywhere.

In my minds eye I can see the owners "knowledgeable" best mate.  " Well gee Wilbur, if you drill out the main jet and the float valve it will get twice as much fuel and make twice the power.  Stands to reason dont it"?

Oh dear.  We all had mates like that....  I may have been one of them.

 

 

Two choices, bodge it with loctite thread sealer.  Real fingers crossed engineering, or hope another carb turns up.

1T9 carb.  A lucky find.  Internal pic shows it has the red fibre gasket in place on the float valve, so hopefully no need to rely on a bodged up carb.  Allegedly it was removed from a running bike getting parted out.  Also hopefully means I do not have to spend £15 on a new genuine #130 main jet, so effectively the carb has cost me a tenner.

Not knowing the mileage this carb has done, I will probably swap over the slide, needle and needle jet from my 2000 mile original carb so I know them to be in good condition.
It has a date with the ultrasonic bath in its near future.

Edited October 8, 2023 by Tinkicker

[Tinkicker]

Time to address my nemesis.  As mentioned previously, I am hopeless at bodywork.  Once covered basic bodywork at college when I was an apprentice.

I learned three things:

1.  I was hopeless.

2.  I find it incredibly tedious.

3.  I knew that I never wanted a job in a bodyshop.

 

 

Sooo.

Stripped off the old tank paint, prepped it and started daubing it with body clag.  As previously mentioned, I managed to pop out the few dents I could reach from inside using a tyre lever.  The rest have to be filled with body clag.

My how I hate it.  I have zero apptitude for it and even less patience.  You need a special kind of patience to enjoy it, the same type as those who enjoy remodelling the rooms in their house.
I find it tedious in the extreme.

It does not help that all I have to do the job is a few sheets of wet and dry and a normal palm size sanding block.  No excuses, the pitiful tools are the result of the paragraph above.  I am just not invested in it.  I know the theory and know the tools required, but for gawds sake man.... Just let me doze off for a while...

Anyway a few hours later and several layers of clag applied and rubbed off and we are 95% there.
I know from previous experience that my attempting the last 5% will result in the job reaching its peak at 95.5% and falling off rapidly into a right old mess.  So 95% it is.
To get it right, it needs the entire side of the tank skinning, knocking in, and shaping and that is well beyond my capabilities.

Without doubt, the imperfections will be visible once painted, but maybe the decals will draw the eye away.

If anyone asks, I am calling the imperfections "patina".

Several hours of gnashing teeth and dust later, the tank has gone from this:
 

To a not great but as good as I can get it with my limited talent.  The entire side needs skimming over and shaping.

Edited October 8, 2023 by Tinkicker

[Tinkicker]

have applied my magnificent bodyshop skills for a good number of hours, and we have the tank curing overnight in my professional, well appointed bodyshop.

No need to pop the champagne, it is what it is. I promised it would be better than the original dented condition and is.
However, I call it a 10 foot tank. You do not want to be getting closer than 10 feet away without the risk of your bubble being burst.

We have it all... The yellow is a shade too light, visible defects in the body filler if you look close, thankfully the decals hide most of it, drips in the clearcoat and wrinkles in the decals. To cap it all, the supplied sidepanel decals are the wrong colour, they are a pearlescent sort of white, not black.

God those decals.. I will have nightmares about fitting those for months to come.. That tank has shockingly steep compound curves at the front end and getting the decals on without wrinkles proved impossible. Even using heat from a hairdryer would not allow them to conform.
The decals themselves were not exactly high quality either though. Not laser cut, I needed scissors. They were not professional decals, just some guy printing them on vinyl in his back bedroom.
Barry, my painter always pointed out there were decals and there were decals. I was banned from supplying the decals for the 175 tank.

My 175 will refuse to sleep in the same room with it. It sleeps cozy under its coat of very expensive, professionally applied show paint and the poor old 100 is very much the poor relation.

It turned out about how I envisioned it. I hoped for better, but knew what it would be be when I resolved to do my own bodywork.
Basically crap, but not dented, rusty crap.

Before.

After.. Oh dear.
 

[Tinkicker]

Thankfuly moving on from the bodywork, the PJ1 paint finally arrived for the exhaust and promptly put to use.

 

Feeling much better now I have the tank out of the way.  That has been on my mind since I bought the bike.

 

Quality paint means a quality finish..

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by Tinkicker

[Tinkicker]

Taking stock. The large pile of bits under the bench has dwindled to the rear fender and the motor.

Motor needs new seals and gaskets throughout and I already bought new, genuine piston rings for it. I need to rebuild the oil pump and plumb it in.
Since the clutch plates are stuck, probably new frictions too.

Of course I will have to blast the cylinder and paint, dip the head and covers in the stripping bath and paint those also. Probably fit new JIS crosshead stainless case screws while they are off.

The points and condenser will be cleaned and refitted unless they are badly pitted, the cap blown ( unlikely since it ran) or the spring is rusty.
New Daichi contact sets are around £15 in the UK. A large section of budget that should not be spent unless absolutely necessary.

As I keep mentioning, the bike is just not desireable enough to make replacing things as a matter of course viable. Safety related parts yes, others no.
The 175 yes, very desireable. The 100 no.

I will not be splitting the cases.

That just leaves the air filter. - £30, the exhaust end cap ( new for £75 or complete used rear box for £50 on fleabay) and the rear fender needs attention and the bike is as complete as it arrived.

Needs headlamp unit. There is a kit available that replaces the 6v sealed beam with a replacement reflector and a 6v led headlight bulb. Probably go down this route.

I take it the original sealed beam unit is 5.75"?

Need a new chain. The old one is still OK, but false economy refitting it at this juncture. The engine sprocket looks new and is a genuine yamaha one. I already replaced the worn out, shark toothed rear one.

Then I need 4x indicators and as far as I can see the bike is pretty much complete.  I will have to make new rear indicator stays, they have have proved to be unobtainable so far.  No biggie making some up one lunchtime.

If the missus had not placed an embargo on the debit card, I reckon she would be about finished now.

I think I am looking at another £200 - £250 which will bring the bike in slightly under budget. I hope..

Large pile of bits under bench reduced to two items on bench.

[GojuRyu5]

 

On 12/10/2023 at 18:31, Tinkicker said:

have applied my magnificent bodyshop skills for a good number of hours, and we have the tank curing overnight in my professional, well appointed bodyshop.

No need to pop the champagne, it is what it is. I promised it would be better than the original dented condition and is.
However, I call it a 10 foot tank. You do not want to be getting closer than 10 feet away without the risk of your bubble being burst.

We have it all... The yellow is a shade too light, visible defects in the body filler if you look close, thankfully the decals hide most of it, drips in the clearcoat and wrinkles in the decals. To cap it all, the supplied sidepanel decals are the wrong colour, they are a pearlescent sort of white, not black.

God those decals.. I will have nightmares about fitting those for months to come.. That tank has shockingly steep compound curves at the front end and getting the decals on without wrinkles proved impossible. Even using heat from a hairdryer would not allow them to conform.
The decals themselves were not exactly high quality either though. Not laser cut, I needed scissors. They were not professional decals, just some guy printing them on vinyl in his back bedroom.
Barry, my painter always pointed out there were decals and there were decals. I was banned from supplying the decals for the 175 tank.

My 175 will refuse to sleep in the same room with it. It sleeps cozy under its coat of very expensive, professionally applied show paint and the poor old 100 is very much the poor relation.

It turned out about how I envisioned it. I hoped for better, but knew what it would be be when I resolved to do my own bodywork.
Basically crap, but not dented, rusty crap.

Before.

After.. Oh dear.
 

Tough luck on the decals. Those profiles can definitely be a challenge, but understand the frustration. I thought the work to strip and fill tank looked pretty good overall and, as ever, I learnt something from looking at your photos. Thanks for sharing.

 

 

[Tinkicker]

Removed the paint from the rear fender and gave it a look over.

What looked to be in fairly good condition has turned out to be mishapen around the forward tail light bracket mounting. Looks to have been dropped onto the tail light, or looped at some point.
It needs filling and reshaping.
Just great. My favourite pastime....

Finished prepping the exhaust heat shield and have that fitted. Shame the supplied decals are the wrong colour, should be black, but they do not look too out of place.
I would not have allowed it on the 175 or the VFR, but this is a different level of restoration to those.

 

Having managed to peel off the original sidepanel decals in one piece - Yamaha never clearcoated over DT sidepanel decals, it is clear why I had trouble with the tank.  The original decals were printed on a vinyl about three times thinner than my replacements.  Almost a skin rather than a sheet.

That is my excuse for tank decals wrinklier than nora batties stockings, and I am sticking to it...  Nah, it won't wash...

The missus is going to learn to ride it in the fields behind the house, so I expect the paint to become somewhat "well used".  So absolutely no point in crying about it.

Exhaust completed.

Edited October 22, 2023 by Tinkicker

[Tinkicker]

Bugger.  I am going to have to pull down the motor.  I really, REALLY did not want to put so much effort into it.  I was looking at new rings, probably new clutch plates and new seals.

I set up the timing and put the rotor back on without incident and drained the tranny oil.  About 200cc came out, not the expected 600 or so, and that that did emerge was badly emulsified.  Aw crap, someone was careless with the hosepipe 40 years ago and the tranny has sat in water laden oil since it was put away.
Hey ho, the bearings still felt smooth.

Then I removed the clutch cover to change the crank seal and look at the stuck clutch plates.
My good god....

It was obvious where the missing 400cc of oil was.  It had turned to sludge and was stuck to everything.

Can anyone tell my why the plates had stuck?  What a mess.  1976 motor oil and water that came from the tap when flyaway collars, platform shoes and flared pants were the vogue.

My troubles were just beginning.  I was not anticipating the next problem at all.  The cast iron barrel had rusted solid onto the studs and I do mean solid.  It did not move upon receiving the usual gentle tap with a rubber mallet.
Three hours it took to remove, involving heat, prying with tyre levers, using drifts, penetrating oil and more heat.  All the while, the water in the emusified oil was breaking down and oozing out over my 1ft x 2ft working space on the bench.
I used up about 5 j cloths just mopping up the mess from the worktop as it was breaking down.
Not a happy bunny.

Finally barrel was off, it had fought for every millimeter of stud length. 
So put barrel aside and gazed in horror at the rust and dirt particles absolutely covering the crank, covering the main bearing oil ducts, all over the big end and in the bottom of the case.
That put the lid on it. 
The prospect of rusty bearings in the tranny and dirt in the crankcase / down the bearing oil ducts made pulling it all apart a necessity.
Feck it all.

Time for a bath to stop the oil breaking down and continuing to make a mess.  Afterwards it was brought up to working temp with a heatgun to dry out the water left inside.  The thin film of oil spread throughout the internals should prevent any further rusting.

Such are the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune.  Fear not, i tell thee, I will take up arms against this sea of pestilence and trouble.

Only progress made this week is the finished generator cover.

[curlylegend]

I like perseverance !

[GojuRyu5]

Wow, that really looks like a big task. I really hope I don’t run into anything like that. I wouldn’t even know where to start. If I put my block into the sink though, I could at least predict an outcome - pain, blood loss and peace and quiet for months (not being spoke too…).

 

[Tinkicker]

As with all such behaviour, I waited till she left for work.  What the eye does not see, the heart cannot grieve.

 

Clutch.

 

[Tinkicker]

Took bottom end into work and got it stripped and cleaned at lunchtime.

I got away lightly.  Only one bearing was rusty and that was only the cage.  All the others, once cleaned out were fine and smooth running.  Everything is ready for putting together again now.

Encouraging signs.  No rust on gears, selectors or shafts.

Clutch basket needed beadblasting to get rid of the crud and corrosion but came out ok.  The only rusty part was the rear needle bearing for the main shaft.  New bearing is on order. 
CMSNL want £22 for one.  Having looked up the ISO number, I got a good quality one for £6.75.  ISO number for that bearing is TA1512Z.

Crank is in fantastic condition.  It cleaned up a treat..  Although the main bearings look and feel fine, I have ordered new ones.  With the engine stripped right down, it would be extreme penny pinching not to change them now.  Cost just over a tenner for the pair.  Daft not to.

 

Edited October 31, 2023 by Tinkicker

[Tinkicker]

Well I found myself at an unexpected loose end this morning, so started to reassemble the bottom end.

It all went fine until it didn't.  Still, that is my fault.  I should have read the blurb and not "assumed".

So new bearings fitted.  Heated the left side bearing and dropped it on the crank, let it cool down and started heating the left case.  New mainshaft needle roller needed the lightest of touches to drive home and the crank dropped straight in.
Transmission requires the full cluster complete with selectors and drum to be "assembed" in the hand and dropped into the left case.  A bit fiddly getting everything lined up and seated, but I have done this job on the almost identical RT100 motors, way back in the mists of time, many, many times, so it ony took a minute or so.
It would have been so much easier if the selector shafts did not have E clips fitted at the ends.

Cases fitted and clutch side put together.  We have gears.. All of them, but I do not expect slick changing without the tranny full of oil and the machine moving under power.

Came to fit the clutch plates and  whistling a merry tune, started giving them a oil bath prior to fitting.  Hang on a mo...

Drat.  They are too small.  I have the wrong ones supplied, they are obviously not DT100 plates as advertised.  Looked at my order details and noted that it said 1978 to 1983.  Oh. 

I looked at CMSNL and noted that Yamaha obviously changed the clutch assembly for a smaller one in 1978.  I assumed they were all the same.  Nope.  Nothing for it other than to take it on the chin.
Another set of the correct type ordered.

Job stopped because I am still waiting for the piston, small end bearing and circlips to show up.  I blasted the barrel, cleaned the old paint from the head and honed the barrel in prep for new rings.  The piston had quite severe galling on the exhaust port side, looked like cold nip upon cold nip ad infinitum.  If the bike was owned back in the 70s by kids as I suspect, it will be extremely unlikely that the bike ever got a chance to gently warm up before full throttle was applied.  Essential.for two strokes.

Looks a bit different to last weekend.  Barrel and head loosely plonked on for artistic licence.  There is no piston inside.
 

Edited November 3, 2023 by Tinkicker

[Tinkicker]

Postie arrived this morning with piston, small end and circlips.  Since I was already going to change the rings, I had a set of OEM rings in stock ready to go.

That piston was a bargain.  It was cheaper than a cheapo chingaling piston kit.  I guess the bike shop realised that there would not be much call for a std piston for a 46 year old bike and just wanted rid.  No idea how long they had it in stock, but the price wrote on it back in the day was £9.50!

I bet it was on the shelf when I was in that shop (Startrights Motorcycles in Leeds) when I was in there regularly as a teenager. An internet search for such a rare piston came up trumps.  I am not usually lucky.

When I first lifted the head, the bore and piston looked to be in great shape.  It was quite the shock when I lifted the barrel last week.

I count 8 layers of cold nip damage.  The kids must have given the poor thing 3 seconds between cold start and full throttle.

The decision to fit a new piston was not the hardest to make...

 

Edited November 4, 2023 by Tinkicker

[Tinkicker]

Had maybe three hours on the bike this morning.  Top end put on, motor fitted in frame and electrics wired in.

If I had not ordered the wrong clutch, I would maybe have had it running this weekend.  Just need to steal the plug cap off the 175 until the new one arrives.

I hope the transmission becomes a bit less prone to false neutrals and general lethargy once the oil gets around.  It gets the gears on the bench by manipulating the change drum with a screwdriver, but like Chuck Berry says " you never can tell".  I never had one fail before though if it generally shifted on the bench.

New piston and rings fitted, ready for the barrel.  The barrel went so far down and stopped, much to my consternation, then I recalled the RT100s doing the exact same thing.  You have to push the ring ends in with a screwdriver to clear the topside of the inlet port.

Barrel studs liberally smeared with grease to hold corrosion at bay.  Maybe someone in another 45 years will thank me for it.

An hour or so later and the motor is in the frame and the major stuff fitted.  The missus has pressed ganged me into the weekly shopping trip. Job stopped. 

 

 

 

[Tinkicker]

The joys of the vintage motorcycle restorer. Think of a budget at the start and write it down for light comedy relief when you review it at the end...

Came to fit the airbox and of course the joint has gone hard and is mishapen due to being incorrectly fitted at some point.

Warmed it up with a heatgun, hoping for a miracle, but of course nope. As soon as it hardened it forced itself back into its original, half on half off position.

An internet search proved fruitless and CMSNL list it as unavailable.

Time for Fowlers. They list it as out of stock but available to order. Duly ordered.

Bit of an expensive morning. I am pushing for the motor to be totally completed and running before the end of the month so I went a little mad and ordered some of those niggling little parts that do not stop it running, yet are not up to scratch, or parts that I would always suggest should be discarded and replaced as a matter of course during a rebuild.
My how they mount up:

Parts on order:

New DID chain. (Old one rusty and part worn. False economy to use a part worn chain on new sprockets)
Front sprocket tab washer. (Self explanatory)
Clutch friction plates.  (embarrassing feck up)
NGK waterproof plug cap. (Old rubber type has perished)
Oil pump rebuild kit. (Currently running on premix)
Clutch cable.  (Replace as a matter of course)
Oil tank cap.  (shrunk and loose fitting)
Air filter.   (cage broken and filter foam perished)
Air cleaner joint. (Rock hard and unserviceable)
Joint to carb clip. (Missing)
Fuel tank rear mounting lower grommet. (missing)
Spacer. (missing)
Upper grommet. (Missing)
10w30 trans oil. ( not in stock)

Most of them are unforseen orders. Budget blown wide open now.

I have promised to wait till after Xmas when my Xmas bonus hits the bank account before ordering any thing else.

Large items outstanding:

Front and rear tyres and tubes.
Headlamp assembly.
Full set of flasher lamps.
Poss a new flasher can.
Registering for a V5 and age related reg number.
Insurance.

Budget blown wide apart.