Phil1 Posted December 30, 2023 Share Posted December 30, 2023 (edited) Hi guys, new user here.... Just in the process of bringing my SV back out of the garage from storage for 3-4 years or so and wanted to let you know how I'm getting on, and if there's anything I've missed... I've been off the road for a few years after having my second child and not really having the time or energy to use the bike. The bikes been SORN and basically just sat in the garage. First things first.... Would it start..... Meh. No. It was on an old optimate which was showing a green light to say the battery was ok, but it clearly wasn't. Not sure why but it hasn't actually being charging the battery and the battery was actually at about 7v. Dead as a dodo. Bought a new battery and fitted it, along with a different comfort charging cable so I can use my much newer ampmatic charger. Would it start...... On the button. Purred into life no problem, despite the fuel being at least 3 years old. It's probably got about 30 miles of fuel in, so the first stop (after the MOT) will be some fresh fuel. One thing I noticed was the lights flickering quite badly at idle so I checked the charging rate and it was very low at idle (13v) and revving it up it reached nearly 15.5v. Way too high. Reg/rec clearly knackered. Ordered a new one and fitted and it's running much better at about 14.4v at idle and dropping slightly to 14v at higher revs. Checked all the lights, horn etc and they're all fine. The only thing I wasn't happy with, and never was... Was the point at which the brake light came on with the lever. It was nearly 20-30% application before the light came on. Took the switch off and filed a bit off the microswitch plunger and it's all good now. Warming up..... Took ages to warm up, it was about 75 degrees shown on the dash and the radiator was starting to get warm, so I figured the thermostat is stuck open/seal passing. Ordered a new one, so it'll also be getting some fresh coolant in. Any tips on changing the stat on an sv650 or bleeding? Thought I might as well change the oil and filter too so they're on order too.. The chain has only done about 3000 miles, so that'll just get a really good clean and lube up/reset tension etc. Tyres..... Need a bit of advice on this one. The date code on them shows them about 10 years old, but plenty tread. I'm thinking I should be changing these as they're going to be well on the way to going hard now. Tyres ain't cheap though! So that's the bike..... As far as I'm concerned, I've got a new textile suit. I need some new boots too. Helmet has only seen about 200 miles and that was bought round about the time the bike was sorn, so that'll be fine. In terms of my riding itself, I'm going to go very steady first few times out as I get ill need a fair few miles to get back into it. Not to mention using those muscles I've not used in a while. Anyway, any further tips for me will be greatfully recieved....if it's getting the bike back into shape, or myself Edited December 30, 2023 by Phil1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender Posted December 30, 2023 Share Posted December 30, 2023 I would be doing air filter and plugs, tyres personally I would be sticking some new on but they are probably fine to get it through MOT and running in a bit to see if anything else pops up. Give chain a good inspection for sticking links. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil1 Posted December 30, 2023 Author Share Posted December 30, 2023 The plugs were done about 19,000 miles and it's done about 24,000 now so I'm a bit on the fence with that one. My last car (Jaguar xf SV8) had 90k intervals on the iridium plugs. I'm guessing standard plugs should be good for half/quarter of that and they're not really something that will go with age like oil/coolant/brake fluid would. Air filter... I'll give it a look over to check for condition, and I've got an airline in the garage I can give it a blast out with. Not really seen a very dirty filter though in all my years of driving. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Frog Posted December 31, 2023 Share Posted December 31, 2023 I haven`t seen any mention of front fork oil yet so for what it`s worth I would add that to your oil, coolant and filter basic service list as I am fairly confident you will be unpleasantly surprised at the state of that when you get it out. I also wouldn`t bother hanging on to the old fuel till after the MOT do it now and don`t risk the embarssment of something clogging up at the worst moment. Oh and welcome to the madhouse (We love pics by the way). Cheers Ian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil1 Posted December 31, 2023 Author Share Posted December 31, 2023 Would the front fork oil be a major job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Frog Posted December 31, 2023 Share Posted December 31, 2023 Hi Phil Not major especially if you have a way of supporting the front while you do it. There are a few different ways of doing it so I would suggest a bit of man time in front of Youtube with a beer and a notebook and find the method of working that suits you best. The most important part is deciding on the method you use for measuring the height/ amount of fluid in the forks once you have changed it. Cheers Ian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideWithStyles Posted December 31, 2023 Share Posted December 31, 2023 On those emulators fork oil change is easy with basic tools, patience, little care to attention, Wrenches, sockets, measuring jug, stick to measure air gap. Dont bother with 10wt fork oil, its far too thin for std emulators, if you want super comfortable 15wt but 20wt at std air gap is a better point. check the shock to see if its got any damping left in it. only thing you'll need to do if it doesn't have a centre/abba/headstock stand is to take weight off the front of the bike, if you have a garage with ceilings beams you could lash the handle bar/clips to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil1 Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 21 hours ago, RideWithStyles said: On those emulators fork oil change is easy with basic tools, patience, little care to attention, Wrenches, sockets, measuring jug, stick to measure air gap. Dont bother with 10wt fork oil, its far too thin for std emulators, if you want super comfortable 15wt but 20wt at std air gap is a better point. check the shock to see if its got any damping left in it. only thing you'll need to do if it doesn't have a centre/abba/headstock stand is to take weight off the front of the bike, if you have a garage with ceilings beams you could lash the handle bar/clips to that. Cheers, yes I did read that they are better with some heavier oil. Doesn't look too difficult to change the oil really. I've stripped the brakes, done the seals etc. I've got a paddock stand for the back and I think I used my jack somewhere on the front to get both wheels off the deck. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil1 Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 (edited) Thermostat changed yesterday and it's reduced the warm up time massively. Thermostat change was a massive pig to do though! Had to lift the tank, take out the air box underneath with all it's associated connectors/breather pipes and even then it was difficult to access in the V of the engine underneath all the throttle body gubbins. Then to refill with coolant I pretty much had to take off the front of the bike just to get to the fill cap on the top of the radiator. You'd think something you'd need to check occasionally would be easier to access. Next job is an oil change and decide when I can get over for the tyres changing. Edited January 8 by Phil1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewToN Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Hope you did the tyres Phil. 10 years is outside of all recommendations. Even if the tread looks OK the rubber can separate from the metal cords and the plies inside the tyre (delamination) which isn't usually visible externally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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