Hairsy Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 As some of you will have seen, I'm tidying up a CBR600F3. Part of this will involve cosmetic improvements to forks, engine casing and frame. I've been deliberating on choice of paint and for every paint I've considered there seem to be as many positive experiences as negative. For now I'm going to try Hammerite Smooth on the forks and see how that goes before deciding what to do about other parts. My best guess is that the contrasting reviews of every product is likely to be highly influenced by the quality of the preparation. I certainly know that my own limited experience in the past has led to success where I've put good effort into the prep and failure when I haven't. So, with the forks, I plan to do a fairly rough sanding to get a smooth surface, followed by scotchbrite for a good key. This has served me reasonably well in the past. My big question is about the final degreasing, which I suspect will make a huge difference to the longevity of the resulting finish. Again, I've researched online and seen hugely varying recommendations. It seems that there are always as many people recommending a product as there are warning against it! So ... those of you who have done similar jobs, what do you recommend for that final degrease ready for the first application of paint? Acetone? Isopropryl Alcohol? Meths? (any of the above would be good as I already have them) Standard Thinners (this link seems great value) Other specific 'Paint Prep' products? Any recommendations appreciated. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick the wanderer Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Hi, first thing, l am not a painter in any way shape or form. Disclaimer aside l would have thought any of those should be good for cleaning the forks. The thing l would like to comment on is Hammerite smooth, l used it on a small subframe and it took forever to cure. Not sure if it was something I did in prep but it just seemed, well not hard, compared to powder coating for instance. I know you are keeping it honest and not going that far, just getting the smooth rite job off my chest, lol, good luck keep up the good work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 Thanks for your thoughts - much appreciated. I've read of some others having that experience. There's seems to be a view that I'll need to allow at least a couple of weeks for a proper cure. Also, that thin sprayed on coats will go off better than thicker (and/or brushed on) coats. Does that align at all with your experience? Don't be bashful if it doesn't! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkicker Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 As far as degreasing for paint. I always use carex hand soap and hot water both when scotchbriting a part and as a wash afterwards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 I strongly recommend that you watch a guy on YT with a channel called Oficina Mesquita. oficina MESQUITA - YouTube You won't understand what he says because he's Brazilian and only talks Portuguese. However, you will learn a lot with his channel. I would be careful with Hammerite as rust will go through it very easily. About prep work. (As per Mesquite) Do as much perfection as you can during prep and you will see the results when you finish. 95% of the result lies in preparing the surfaces. Good quality paint will last much longer even more on a motorbike. I'm considering spraying my Pan and will be ordering the products from these guys Motorcycle & scooter paint - touch up or respray for Honda Yamaha Ducati Kawasaki Triumph BMW Harley Suzuki Aprilia KTM Classic Vintage | RS Bike Paint Degreaser, you should get proper paint degreaser or as alternative carbs or brakes cleaner. Acetone is a great solution but doesn't remove everything. Spraying or painting with quality is an expensive "sport" but About the forks, You want to make sure you remove all the clear coat and correct any scratches/imperfections on the forks. At the end they are exposed to lots of aggression, high speed impact by dust, sand and even small stones (if you're lucky no large ones). Finally, a top quality filler goes a long way. Some pics of the work will be appreciate by everybody here 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 (edited) That's really helpful - and that site for paint is excellent. I'll be putting pictures on the 'Amateur Restoration' thread on here ... Thanks again. Edited January 20 by Hairsy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick the wanderer Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 I brush painted it on from a tin, following the guidelines you had to get the next coat on in a certain time frame otherwise it started to cure. I gave it a few coats flattening it out as I went along, all in the "what it said on the tin" instructions. I was happy with the look (satin black) it just never cured as l thought it might and chips easily. So a bit disappointing all in all. Wouldn't last 5 minutes on forks, but who knows it was probably something I did wrong. ( Not unheard of) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 Hmmm. I may think again. The other option I was closest to considering was Simoniz Wheel Paint, along with etch primer and lacquer. More expensive / time consuming but I don't want to do all the work and have it not last. Just really struggling to find a product that gets a unanimous thumbs up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkicker Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Etch primer, Simonize steel wheels and 3 coats of clearcoat... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 That looks fantastic. There’s my decision made. Thank you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 (edited) I didn't notice this topic before, this is where I am a professorial I've had cars in Mercedes car show rooms on deansgate (Manchester) on the turn tables my work is that good. ps you didn't need etching primer, that type of primer is for unworked metal, like shiny bright unworked aluminium, but hell what a good job there's a paint called Glasurit that will also save you money on lacquer, don't know what it costs these days it's been a wile. Edited January 23 by Vic101 dyslexic error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 22 hours ago, Vic101 said: I didn't notice this topic before, this is where I am a professorial I've had cars in Mercedes car show rooms on deansgate (Manchester) on the turn tables my work is that good. ps you didn't need etching primer, that type of primer is for unworked metal, like shiny bright unworked aluminium, but hell what a good job there's a paint called Glasurit that will also save you money on lacquer, don't know what it costs these days it's been a wile. Interesting comment - it may be that etch primer wasn't necessary but is there a reason why it shouldn't be used in any scenario? In particular on steel where I read that it can help with rust prevention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideWithStyles Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Most of the time just if its a good key to bond with including the differences of materials either chemically or surface Area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 basically On 24/01/2024 at 14:28, Hairsy said: Interesting comment - it may be that etch primer wasn't necessary but is there a reason why it shouldn't be used in any scenario? In particular on steel where I read that it can help with rust prevention. No, all etching primer is used for is to key the metal so you don't need to sand it down, its basically a weak acid primer, so you don't need to waste time keying/sanding your bright metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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