Yamaha TDR 125 1995

[ThomasDC]

Hi people

 

I just bought a TDR 125 from a 2 stroke collector.

I used to have one when I was younger, now I want to get back into biking again, but this time as I'm older, learn how to do maintenance & repair a bike myself, make it a hobby. 

 

I'm a complete novice. So I'm asking for a nice check list I could run through to get this on the road again.

 

This 1995 TDR has been sat for over 2yrs.

Only has 11kmiles.

It starts fine! But cuts out when you turn off the throttle.

I am currently going to do this weekend-

-drain all oils, 2 stroke tank, fuel and transmission, & replace.

- change air filter

- change spark plug

- clean fuel tank and it's filter.

 

- I want to clean the carbs jet, I am told it gets clogged if it's been sat for this long. No Idea how to get it off the bike yet, let alone I'm not that confident in opening a carb up yet.

 

What else could I do or am I missing?

Any one with experience on how to get the carb off this bike? I presuming it's the same steps as the Yamaha TZR and DT bikes? ( Same engine) 

 

Any advice for a newbie please throw at me

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Nick the wanderer]

Hi and welcome.

One of the best things you can do is get a workshop manual. Haynes do a good one for instance, so you can familiarise yourself with everything.

Next make sure you have decent tools. You will need JIS screwdrivers, they look like a Phillips but are not, you don't want to be rounding off the heads.

Enjoy! Great little bike to play with.

[Simon Davey]

Hey @ThomasDC welcome back to motorbikes, and welcome to the forum. 

The single, best piece of advice is as above, get a proper workshop manual. It really is worth paying for the book, and not a cheap eBay download. The cheap downloads are photocopies of the real thing, and are terrible quality. 

[Hairsy]

As above, get yourself a Haynes manual and some JIS screwdrivers. I don't recall whether that era of Yamaha suffered the modern scourge of Allen head bolts but, if so, spend as much you're prepared to on good Allen wrenches. If you don't have one, get at least one torque wrench and ideally a couple (with different ranges). Tools are a genuine investment and good tools WILL save you money.

 

You will almost certainly need to clean the carb. The manual will help with removal and taking it apart. Take lots of photos at every stage so that you can get it back together again. Take photos from multiple angles.

 

Brakes. You'll need to replace brake fluid (I'm assuming the bike has a front disc). You should also remove the pads and inspect them carefully. If in doubt, replace them. I took a set of old pads out of a recent bike that had plenty of friction material - and the friction material literally fell off. I'm guessing it may have a rear drum - you'll want to open that up and clean it all, making sure everything operates smoothly.

 

Check chain & sprockets - they may well be OK. A good chain brush and some paraffin / kerosene along with some time can really rejuvenate a chain. Be prepared to change it if you need to but I've managed to bring horrible looking chains back to life. Just make sure all of the links are pivoting easily.

 

Tyres will almost certainly be too old. Usual advice is to replace after 5 years regardless of tread.

 

Wheel and headstock bearings may need replacing but not necessarily. If you're not confident checking these, they're checked during the MoT which is a cheap way to get a professional opinion.

 

Finally, post your progress on here and you'll get lots of advice. Everyone loves pictures.

[Egon247]

Welcome back to the two wheeled bar of joy!

I LOVED TDR's. awesome things. 

As the others have said, get a manual, definitely the JIS drivers as you'll be amazed at the difference they make. 

Lots of photos, even of irrelevant stuff, as there might be something in the background that you missed and need to look at. 

Take your time and dont rush it. As i've learned, you cant fix everything in one go. you'll lose the will to do it and give up. No one wants that. 

Thankfully youve only got one of everything to worry about, so it should be pretty straightforward. 

 

ANd post up some pics, as hairsy says, a picture makes people happy.  

 

[ThomasDC]

Thanks for the replies! I forgot to add a picture, here you go ( plz ignore my messy garden)

 

I've looked for a workshop manual Haynes don't do one for a TDR, I've checked their website too, googled all over for one. Unless someone got a link to one I've missed ?

I've found a repair manual in GERMAN though haha guess I can use Google lens if I have no look finding a English one.

 

Ps the only manuals I do have are the service manual, which ofc only show you how to change a spark plug etc 

 

I didn't think about the Japanese screws, I'll get a set!

 

I've got torch wrench / all the other tools...I think but not for removing tyres. I've noted the rear tyre is not the standard size, smaller profile..I thought it looked smaller... Will be changing them both.

 

A Motorbike garage is a mile or 2 down the road, so soon as it gets road worthy I'll be sending it there for a double check.

 

I forgot about the chain! Yes I'll get that brushed up and cleaned, it needs doing too!

 

 

 

Edited December 2, 2024 by ThomasDC

[Egon247]

Niiiiiice. Like that.  

[bonio]

Great looking bike you've got yourself there!

[Simon Davey]

That's a proper tidy machine! 

[Egon247]

Young 

Persons

Vile

Screamer. 

 

Lol. gotta love a YPVS. If my memory serves me (its dusty in there!) its the same engine as the TZR125 and DTR125. Not sure about the rest of it though.

 

[Nick the wanderer]

You can get a TZR/DTR manual up to 93 from Haynes.

I did see the German one you must have seen.

I'd be having a look at the vin numbers and checking the year of manufacture and where it came from. If it's a German bike that manual would be ideal.

 

[bud]

Nice project.

Removing the carb and cleaning it will be pretty similar to most two strokes of the time. You might be able to remove the carb by undoing the air box and feed valve block. Or you might need to remove the air box first.

While you have the carb off, I would check the reeds valves too. And the rubber inlet for cracks.

And definitely flush the coolant.

Edited December 2, 2024 by bud

[ThomasDC]

12 hours ago, Nick the wanderer said:

You can get a TZR/DTR manual up to 93 from Haynes.

I did see the German one you must have seen.

I'd be having a look at the vin numbers and checking the year of manufacture and where it came from. If it's a German bike that manual would be ideal.

The vin starts with a 4GW which is implies it's a 1995. From what I could tell from googling. Couldn't get my head or phone down the neck to see the rest of the numbers. I will spend some good amount of time on it this weekend to see. I hope it's not a German version import though, German ones were restricted more than any other to only 50mph, a Speedo rev restriction, easy to remove just annoying.

 

I think I'll bite the bullet and get the German workshop manual, at the end of the day it's the diagrams and key words like torque values. Google lens to translate works well these days too.

[RideWithStyles]

The IDLE and choke jets and passageways will be blocked or restricted WITH CRAP. Check if it has a the small hole where the flap/valve just sits on, that can get get blocked easily.

[ThomasDC]

44 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

The IDLE and choke jets and passageways will be blocked or restricted WITH CRAP. Check if it has a the small hole where the flap/valve just sits on, that can get get blocked easily.

 

Do you mean within the carb or outside the carb around the idle screw and choke valve thingy? Basically I'm asking if you mean I can clean a hole up without opening or taking the carb off. I get home early this evening I can check it out while I do the spark.

[Nick the wanderer]

You could get a HPI Check that will tell you a fair bit, not sure how much they cost but under a tenner. Most people get one before they part with the cash.

One way of knowing if a vehicle is imported is the Speedo will be in KPH. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135394348485?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=HkrIAFC9Rd-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-Q-jPEg_T3u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This is the UK version from what I can gather. Same engine different body work.

Edited December 3, 2024 by Nick the wanderer
Added info

[ThomasDC]

2 hours ago, Nick the wanderer said:

You could get a HPI Check that will tell you a fair bit, not sure how much they cost but under a tenner. Most people get one before they part with the cash.

One way of knowing if a vehicle is imported is the Speedo will be in KPH. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135394348485?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=HkrIAFC9Rd-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-Q-jPEg_T3u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This is the UK version from what I can gather. Same engine different body work.

I was just reading through that manual pdf version on my tea break. Attached it in case.

Page 83 has the carb instructions. Not completely clear for a novice like me, but I think it's workable, the carb looks a bit different, but should be the same fitment. Like you said getting a hard copy is a must.

Thanks for having a look for me Nick

Service_Manual-DT125R.pdf

[RideWithStyles]

Depends if it really needs it or how bad it is? 

the basic is a good strong fuel cleaner in the fuel, thats the first stage.

after that its airbox off and spray carb cleaner into ports and holes you see inside, some will drain some to where you’ll see it exit while some wont, if not joy or change of sound then it most likly will have to come off.

 

before you ever too involved with messing it up or paying for stuff (ull need JIS screw drivers or ull fook the screw heads up in secs)  get a Haynes manual for it and go through it, if it seems too much to get the grips of it might be just that and better to search for a good old school mechanic to do it for you. If it sounds ok to you then have a look and go through it step by step, take pictures, log what you take off, bag and label it or detached from what.

 

expect its going to need a clean out…Really clean it, if so then you’ll take the carbs off, jets/needles out (clean and clear out) could do with spraying out at the least or a sonic bath or two (depending on what it is or how much is clearing it) and carb clean it again afterwards.

it will take time some tools and meticulous work and patience to do it….in a warm clean garage .

if you displace, change setting or screws or remove the carbs what so ever-  it must be balanced again afterwards…no if or buts.

with the age of the bike expect it to need least some form of rubbers replacing - boots, gaskets, seals, diaphragms, tubes etc so dont be surprised if the shopping list gets bigger.