Stu
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Everything posted by Stu
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Its not the steel you want to worry about its the holes in the caliper as its alloy and when it corrodes it expands and grips to the pins like there is no tomorrow
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if your going to buy another caliper then the TL1000s and r fit as do a lot of gsxr so you can widen your search
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If you read his posts all he has is a hair dryer for heat! Nothing stopping him going and buying a blow torch though Alex don't hit it too hard with a hammer the caliper is cast and can easily crack
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Only suggestion I have is to post me it
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search for blandit calipers it will give you some idea but they are pins in the caliper holding the pads like most calipers they will go in one end but they are capped at the other side so you cant push them out in my experience its far easier to split them then pull the pin with a pair of mole grips but they usually come out as you split them
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its hard to say what it is without seeing it it could be the overflow for your coolant trace the pipe and see where it leads to
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as EAB says was the fork bushes done with the seals?
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Mine cone out very very easily after been cleaned up and a smear of copper grease My rear caliper has been sat for 3 years and the pin came straight out
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If you have the lines ready to go on too you may as well do a proper job Strip the calipers fully pull them apart with the pin still in and you will have more leverage While your in there pull all the pistons out and seals and clean the lot up if your carefull with the seals they will be fine to reuse
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Helen too mate? Your name is already down
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not good martin hope it gets sorted quick and you dont miss too much riding I was going to say summer but I think we had that today!!
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so you put a multimeter on the battery and pressed the horn and the volts went down to 6? if so your battery is shot
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You need to load test the battery Put the multimeter on it while hitting the starter and see what the voltage is
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Leave it plugged in but not unattended just to be safe Its probably working fine though just seems high
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its fine for a bike battery is that! shouldnt charge that high though I had one of those it went tits up though!!
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17volts is way too high IMO it should charge at 14 ish then after about an hour or two settle to 12.8 ish
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as usual
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I've heard good things about him he has some of the plugs that others don't!
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and check this guy out for wiring http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/custom-looms& ... 1543.l2533
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try this place http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457. ... ors_Bullet
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I have a link to a place that may help I will post it when I get home
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its called Google
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http://images.wemoto.com/brakes/racing-line-brakelines.jpg
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you just replace the lines and you get a longer banjo bolt that allows both lines to be attached to the master cylinder
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the spare will be flat too they loose charge over time and the clicking is the starter solenoid clicking on and of as there isn't enough juice in the battery
