Stu

As tango has just said it will start first go with a new battery but once going it will soon die have you got a multi meter? its really easy to check the battery just set it to 20 v put it across the terminals and read it and post the results while your at it check your fuses

a dodgy earth wont really pop a fuse! more like a live going to earth! what was the reason of the new battery? could it be the that the charging system is duff and not charging the battery? and the battery is actually flat

its a start!

and why was this in forsale and wanted?

we live and learn at least you have some spares now

yeah it is a few years old but the laws are still the same they are only allowed a certain amount of additives to the oils yeah motul is pretty cheap I used to use it its good oil too yeah some car oils aren't cheap its £45 for 5 litres for my car

been looking for this website for bloody ages!! http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm have a read its pretty interesting

Erm....haven't you just had to change the clutch plates on your bike again Stu?..... Most cars have a single plate dry clutch....whereas most bikes have wet multiplate clutches.......I believe that there are additives in some car oils that will cause a bike clutch to slip. For the sake of a few extra quid once a year I think I'll stick with Bike specific oil..... OP....I'm sure semi-synthetic would be more than OK in that bike...... yeah due to warpage not slippage it was solid as a rock I just could not stop sometimes! there is a big thread on here somewhere Bob that is packed with all the info you need the oils you have to watch is the high end market ones where you wouldn't buy them to put in the bike as they are too expensive

as whats already been said above turn your idle screw a bit to raise the tick over speed they may have taken the screw out to fit the restrictor kit as some have a idle screw fixed to the bikes frame

have you warmed it up properly? with it been dold it will take some warming up

how true

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do as hodgy says you need to know if the battery is holding a charge first if it check out ok then hook it up to the bike measure the voltage with everything off it should be 12+ volts then switch the ignition on with lights it should still be above 12 but a little lower then when turned off and the volts should go down slowly if they go quickly then its had it if it drops below 12 volts as soon as you put the ignition on the battery is no good then start the bike and test with the bike at idle you should be getting 13 volts if not your charging system is dead and needs looking at might be a good idea to keep the volt meter on the battery while you crank the bike over and keep an eye on the reading it should drop to about 10 volts any lower and the battery is on its way

if its incorrectly set then yes that will cause clutch slip I would set it as per manual if no joy drop the oil strip and degrease the clutch add some new oil decent ish stuff no tesco own I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for it doesnt have to be bike oil as I say if no different it could just be a coincidence that has started to slip at the same time as a oil change

If the clutch was slipping before the oil change I very much doubt its the oil you can use car oils in bikes MOTORBIKE oil is a marketing hype and a way to bump up prices I use castrol semi synthetic in my bike I usually get it when its on offer in Asda and pay 10 - 12 quid for it and having used it for the last 4 years with no trouble I can thoroughly recommend it I would go with the friction plates and clutch springs myself

feedback It looks ok up to now I have only had a quick look one thing I hate about some apps is the way some auto put a link on your phone home screen not everyone wants them on there Is it going to stay free? you could do with a link for websites and forums not forgetting to put this one at the top I dont like the way that when descriptions go on to a second line the second line starts under the image it would be better if it was directly under the first line Im using a HTC oneX if it makes any difference

they should come already charged and ready to go before you buy a new battery get a multimeter and test the charging system to make sure you are getting enough charge I suspect you are as one the bike is running it keeps running

this is the venture system http://www.ventura-bike.co.uk/images/models/1004.jpg the pack can face both ways so you can carry a pillion http://www.ventura-bike.co.uk

you could try looking at Ventura? they do racks with luggage and they are solid as a rock might be worth a look

Thanks guys Its not the hardest thing to do but for people that have never done it before then its pretty useful got a new K&N filter today so may do a how to on the air filter

ah thats not too bad then

Bloody hell Bob I could see that been a pain especially if your having trouble and need to keep going in there!

Is this going to be ready for the rally then Alan?

Just thought I would do a little write up on how to change a clutch first things first is to read your manual and order the correct parts! then read your manual again to make sure you know what your doing (I didnt have to as my clutch as been in and out more time then a tranny!) Once you receive your new clutch friction plates you need to soak them in new oil the same grade as what is in the bike for a few hours before fitting Next locate your clutch cover on your bike undo the bolts (marked red) securing the clutch cover have a catch tray underneath to catch any oil that maybe in there, Mines not too bad I can do it on the side stand and not loose any oil for this occasion it was on a centre stand as I have drained the oil for a change, As you remove the cover watch out for the oil seal around the edge Once you remove the clutch cover you will see the clutch pressure plate with the five securing bolts (marked red) some bikes have more some have less they will be holding springs which in turn hold the pressure plate these springs are what apply pressure to the clutch plates and when you pull your clutch this plate is pushed out releasing the pressure, Undo the bolts a bit at a time to keep and even pressure once the bolts are out remove the springs followed by the pressure plate once you have removed the pressure plate turn it over and check the back for a bearing of some sort mine is a needle roller bearing remove this and keep it safe don't get dirt/grit on it! Then remove all the plates remembering to keep them in order lay them however you like just remember which way they came out some bikes it doesn't matter but some have a different size steel plates and in certain order Next get all your parts together and close by I left the friction plates in the oil with them in order they was to come out and put the tub under the bike so not to drip oil everywhere Before you go ahead and fit them double check your manual as you can see by the pic I have one friction plate smaller then the others which goes in first followed by a steel plate then all the rest of the friction plates are the same but steel plates 4 and 5 (number 4 in the pic) are thicker then the rest fit the clutch plates in the order required then before you put your pressure plate on fit the needle roller bearing in my case on to the centre push rod this will stop it falling off the back of the pressure plate *note on mine you may see the outer most plate the tab is offset to the rest for those that are interested in this pic you can see the welded clutch cam set at the back where the 5 posts screw in to this acts as a slipper clutch on mine but doesnt work too well it works better welded solid Sorry no more pics after this I was too oily Next fit the pressure plate followed by the springs then the bolts doing the bolts hand tight then tighten them a little at a time to keep even pressure then fit your clutch cover making sure you replace the seal if you need to and tighten and thats it job done Next take for a test ride