Stu

ive never seen in a manual clicks to weight its always soft to hard you dont set compression and rebound to weight you set sag to weight then control the speed at which the shock bounces with the compression and rebound adjusters till you find that purfect ride

if you havent got the know how or right equipment then buy one £20 aint a bad price

you mean something like this ? i made mine out of an old socket and some square bar socket needs to be right on the inside edge on the of the locating pins and square bar needs to be a snug fit all welded up and works a treat or you can cut away an old socket leaving four pins

The problem will be crap behind the seals It forces extra pressure on the piston and it won't retract properly when you release the brake Piston out seals out a right good clean in the groves where the seal sits and new seals ideally rebuild and bleed back up

They are oil cooled I'm not sure if the gsxf 750 engine is the same!

They are oil cooled I'm not sure if the gsxf 750 engine is the same!

Makes no odds if its fI or carbs view all need balancing

What's the mileage? And do you think the mileage is right or could there be some doubt? It might not need a full service unless your doing it for peace of mind

yes leather does give but it doesnt give that much!! i would send it back and head to your nearest leather clothing stockist and try loads on different brands have different sizing you MUST try before you buy with leathers too tight/loose and they will do more harm then good in a crash also they can cut off circulation if too tight giving pins and needles after just a few mins riding if your getting leathers do a proper job and get ones that fit right so they protect you properly

Oh I forgot to mention it will take me 500 hours to do them! Now who's cheap :lol:

i can do them if you send them my way plus all parts and £10 an hour labour

hmmm good point

cant you recon yours

pretty eay to do plus you will know the bike inside out and make sure everything is right too although it can work out expensive

think you may find it a lot smaller on the 125 they are only thin pipes

Your choke should make a cold engine rev no more then 2k and as it warms up you can knock it off Sounds like the choke needs adjusting on the cable to stop it reving too high

im using 2ct's and they are good tyres recommendations and if i find a tyre i like i stick with it

have a read viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2763&start=0

yeah i know its auto switching suzuki's have been since about 1996 my TLs is the same only i get more in reserve

you should have two reserve lights first a flashing light then a solid one flashing light will be around 3 litres left solid light will be half of flashing

valve clearences can go either way! tight or loose!! valve seats can burn slightly making the valve sit in further causing the clearence to go tights dont forget we are only talking fractions of a mm for valve clearences ive had it on a bike where a couple have been tight and a couple loose its one of the most looked over jobs on a bike even though they are easy to do remember its only a valve check and adjust if needed if no adjustment its no extra charge if your pretty handy with a spanner and feeler gauges they are easy to check

boxers and a t shirt what more do you need

Riding it hard doesn't mean it will warm up properly! You have to give the oil time to warm up and to dissipate the moisture

defo just condensation then take it for a good ride a 10 min ride isnt enough to warm it up properly

the creamy residue is water mixed with the oil are you only doing short trips on the bike? if so it will be just condensation in the oil as its not heating up fully and the condensation is not burning off check for coolant loss too worst case it could be head gasket but its probably just the cold weather