Stu

gutted

sounds like the starter motor is jammed to me! stick it in gear and rock it back and forth that usually free's them if no luck you may have to remove the starter and check it out

well said bill

your supposed to change the lot together as they wear together the chain would cause premeture wear on the new sprockets

and check chain tension as that can cause clunky gears

what bike is it ?

i got my bike as a toy and thats it i have a car for everyday use!

its the manufacturers of the brake fluid guide brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water) so should be changed every two years because of this!

this is your service intervals http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1phYYAmabMqZ1P_4ZqBIr__BGQctTtc6kdoZbGzxz7Mf3wB28RkV6OltTSS-BQANkPSoyFof2Skz0aCZRoxV1CZw/1.03.jpg?psid=1

http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... 27&t=13141

no you wont need to! remove calipers remove pads while calipers are off give them a good clean up brake cleaner helps! install new pads reverse of removal you will need to push the pistons back then fit calipers simple! if you dont know how long the fluid has been in you could change it im sure there is a write up of how to do that on here

replace old spark plug and see if power comes back!! i have known "new" plugs to be duff

you will get a little less contact patch at full tilt but not sure you will notice too much difference i know of people racing using that size tyres!

One person's shite is another persons dinner! its not my dinner i have a ham and cheese sarnie!! i wont be attending vicki as i will be in sunny spain bit gutted to be honest

yeah it will sit a bit lower when you sit on it cos the spring isnt under as much compression when you wind it the other way you making the shock reach full extension and putting more compression on before your weight which means it will need more weight to move it hence why it goes back to full extension giving the bang once you set your sag you controll the springyness with the damping screw too little damping and it will spring about uncontrollably too much and it will move really slow not soaking up the bumps properly set sag stick screw driver in pocket go for a ride stop and adjust till it feels right

after right your bang is because you have too much pre load on the spring ( collers wound down away from label ) the spring is reaching its stop when it extends you need to adjust it so it more towards the label so the bike site down more when you sit on it do a google search on setting the sag you will need two people to do it though

first set your riders sag look it up on google theres loads of info out there then controll the boooiiiing with the screw

if the revs dont go any higher when first started then it sounds to me like the choke isnt working!!

is the choke adjusted properly ? what does it tick over at when on full choke?

controls how much damping you get on the up and down movement if you back it off it will spring around like a pogo stick screw it all the way in it will slow right down and not be as springy im sure theres a suspension guide in the Guides, Manuals, & Riding Advice section! edit here it is http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... =27&t=2763

the screw at the bottom is for compression and rebound looks like yours is a combined one ie you adjust it and it adjusts compression and rebound where as other shock have separate for compression and rebound

quoted off another forum and it refers to your bike

a stat doesnt have a sensor so the FI system doesnt know if its open or closed plus while a bike is running a stat opens and closes all the time to hold a steady temp so wouldnt work reading the stat its usually read from ambient outside temp and coolant temp sensor which is located in the stat housing

but who said it was a ride out to go and enjoy the open roads ?? it was a protest to get the plod off the bikers back so they CAN enjoy the open road and bends in peace

wasnt the idea of it a protest which a protest is best done in numbers http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/News/ ... rth-wales/