Fozzie

It might have gone back to the right tension for a while but if it rattled at all for any extended period of time it has gone... Mine is riddled with problems it seems so I am getting rid of it in the new year for something like an older GSXR or R6. Check yours out, mine had a mangled airbox, rounded screws to the throttle bodies, a snapped tank holder bolt and I am fixing it and getting rid as it was meant to be reliable, I only let Honda's cross me once

I believe parafin is useable as Ive seen it mentioned in relation to brake cleaning a number of times... There is a few products on ebay, have a look there and get some in as that way you will be safe!

f**k it 2011 has been my worst biking year... One bike gets stolen, The next one gets crashed into And the third one has engine problems and is a bit mangled under the tank. I am now looking for a new bike to try and get back on my feet. About 18 months ago I thought about getting an SV and I bet you i'd have still had it now and been happy ffs. f**k it

I use self-algamating tape as i've just replaced my indicators, if you wrap it up night and tight as well as neatly it keeps the wiring waterproof. I've used it and can vouch for it

I was planning on coming but last minute have to pull out... Few things have gone very wrong recently so I won't be able to make it. Just as well really as I'd probably try to head home too quickly and bin it again

Can I ask how in the hell you did it in 20 mins!?!?! :shock: I can't reach it from any angle. It looks like I need to take the tank off, airbox and throttle bodies off! Because you need to retract the tensioner before you take it out and put it back in otherwise you can cause problems apparently

When I fitted a higher wattage bulb I took load off elsewhere so that the overall shift was that less power was being pulled from the battery So LED tail light, indicators and side light all fitted and I worked out now I'm drawing nearly 2 amps less from the battery. Win

It's on the way out on mine, im getting a progressively louder and more rattly sounding tick at 3000-3500rpm though it's only there at present so I haven't done anything about it. I took my tank off and christ it looks hard as the air box and throttle bodies are right in the way of it. So I think I will take the air box off when I service it, and then move the throtte bodies over to the left and that way I can retract the plunger properly.

they will only fail MOT if the beam pattern is all wrong which they would be in a reflector unit but not projectors and are you sure they are HID's on the above bikes and not just projector headlights? i use HID's in my high beam on the car and is legal as high beam is just checked to see if it works there is no set beam pattern for the high beam and you dont use them when other vehicles are around They are HID's but no projector, he used them with his reflectors and set them up so that only worked on high beam and didnt dazzle you too badly when you saw them. And when he used them on the road the beam is pointing down quite a lot but the light fills more than twice the area the standard bulbs did without being dazzling. Projectors are only illegal if they are running a HID kit inside them and dont self-level, otherwise you're all good I got told this by a local biker rozzer who I asked when I thought about fitting them to my bike I didnt ask about projectors though... Am I allowed to fit these to my bike? If so im gutting my front headlight assembly

Except that it's (probably) illegal, and about to become definitely illegal I understand. And judging by the number of bikes with ridiculously bright and maladjusted headlamps dazzling other road users at the moment, not before time! I for one am fed up with being temporarily blinded by selfish tw*ts with illegal headlamps. They should fail MOT's on that basis... But Vans are worst for it as are some cars. HID projectors are fitted as standard to some Yamaha's and MV Agustas and are legal. However you need a self-leveling kit for them to be legal and that's a bit of a nuisance to sort out. HID projectors without a self-leveling device are illegal HID kits for bikes ive seen used with my mates bike who runs it through his high beam switch on an SV650. He adjusted them right down for road use using me as a guinea pig to see if it was too bright or not. They are ok I believe but if you do what he did, which is to run them as high beams I've been told you can get away with that at the mot station.

It stalled by coincidence, it was a old motor though. The lecturer had been expecting the fireworks at some point to make a point as we all sort of laughed at the fuse thinking it would snap very easily and safely. As it turns out fuses arent fool proof. Thats why I worry about a battery of a much greater ampage being used as if the situation ever reproduced itself for whatever reason then it was our reccomendation the op went off

It was fused, but it had a 20amp crank rating and was hooked up to a 110amp crank battery to show what can happen, the fuse actually blew but an arc managed to melt the fuse down to the blades and took half the fuse box with it as well as allowing the wire to melt... All to simply show what can happen with the wrong supply And saw it happen to a 125 before as well A better block is a breaker but thats trailing off from the subject.

Logistics wise I am not sure but always happy to help you any way I can 250 miles is but walking distance! I was more thinking as my project is intended as a naked, the only bits will be small so I could learn from the master. You will be rewarded with pasties and ice cream as thats about the best I can do!

Would you help me paint some bits if when I get a project? Just cos you wont do another project doesnt mean you cant keep your hand in

I think for £16 its worth it by miles... For a start I saw Nick Sanders back from his 51000 mile stretch across America and he gave a good talk and showed us round the bikes he's used. I saw bikes to be released next year which is better than any window shopping you can do I met many other bikers and even engineers who work for some of the manufacturers who gave me great insight into mods on the bikes, some of the bikes secret tricks and they even showed me round the bike particularly in the norton section where they show cased all the parts of the engine and how they are made I have looked online for the things I wanted and the best deals I can get are all close on the price if a little above. Not a great thing as I could have had it there and then without the need to wait for it to be delivered. I saw streetfighters and highly modded bikes from huge litre sports 4-stroke driven versions to small 2-stroke ones. Can't see those in the window I got to walk around shops specialising in street fighter parts from inverted forks to just clip on bits I could easily go on but most importantly I met up with friends, with my dad and gf, walked around and had a good time and I will be going next year hopefully. Go there and FIND something that makes it worth your time, you can even check before hand. Dont go simply expecting something.

My understanding (which may be wrong, it does happen occasionally) is that the 30A relates to cranking power available. Just 'cos it's available don't mean it's delivered, so it'd be OK so long as it physically fits. The only time you woulld have a (potential) problem is if there is a fault on the starting circuit and it demands more power than the circuit is designed to take at which point the fuse would blow. The starting issue is what I was referring to. Whilst on a training course for work last year we hooked up a car battery with 110 amps crank power as part of an experiment. The starter motor stalled and full current was drawn across the wire melting it. That was fairly impressive to see If there is a battery in close prox to your current values go for that. As said early physical size is most important.

2010 bike 2000 miles when I got it, 13000 when I got rid Had it for 6 months Worth about £5000 http://www.visordown.com/news/images/2009_XJ6-Diversion.jpg I had this as a hire bike for 6 months whilst my ER was out of action being fixed waiting for an electrical part that just never came due to Japan having a tsunami crisis. When I first got it I was quite excited, R6 derived engine, upward sitting position and wide bars, good clocks and good fairing to keep the weather off. I rode it for a few days thinking it was alright... Then the penny dropped with a big clang This bike is the most uninspiring piece of kit I have ever had to ride. The engine is bullet proof but only because its R6 derived and is actually a de-tuned fazer knocking it down to 78BHP. Why they did that I will never know as the Fazer wasn't a jerky bike and I wasn't aware it needed to be softer. The bike is quite easy to ride though corners but no matter how fast and low you go good luck feeling any sense of fun mid-bend. Its like being on a wet, slow and weedy sounding Bandit. The noise and exhaust box vibration was horrendous You have to rev it like a nutter to get it to go anywhere but it will hold low revs well if you force it to. But it feels so buzzy all the time that on the motorway it really drives you nuts at 7000rpm doing 70. It only revs to 11500rpm before the redline and I know 136mph indicated is all this has got to give. The SV650 with a V-twin, which in theory should be slower than this pulls to 143mph on the clocks. Fuel economy is also crap, I got 57mpg out of it on a motorway run. My ER got over 70mpg and the CBR600RR I had before did 65mpg on a motorway run. It went 2 up fine enough but had to be revved very hard though was as easy to ride 2 up as it was solo. This is not a good thing when you can't distinguish between the two. End of my stint with it I'd racked on 11,000 miles and thoroughly wanted to chuck it off a cliff. However despite all this I have to give it credit. It was mind numbingly reliable, it did what it said on the tin and for a budget bike the Brembo brakes bit very well and gave great stopping power. If you want a bike for pure purpose and you arent too bothered with having fun then this is your bike but there are better in class than this. It is spacious but the naked one makes more sense. If you buy one make sure its second hand, make sure its naked, and fit an Arrow exhaust system to try to give it a bit more grunt and a nicer noise. It needs it.

Like me I suspect your a slave to Ebay... You will see the fruits of your labour and a new project that "could" be done up so nicely and before you know it... You're thinking "What have I done!?" and so is the mrs

So 12 volts and 4 ampere/hours and can deliver 30 amps full current is what I make out of that... It's best to find one that matches the specification of your current battery. A battery too big for your bike power wise might cause problems.

Buy...Something...Thats NOT... A CB!

Another project out of the garage and into use, well done I want to see this paint job in the flesh so if I find myself nearby and I often do I may pop in and inspect it

Id be in trouble... Fuel carbon wrapped end can Smoked lens LED tail light LED indicators front and back Anodised blue racing levers Powerbronze screen Headlight conversion with 501 Xenon blue side light fittings I've got bright red LED lights coming to boost rear visibility just so I dont get any trouble with the smoked lens. A set of xenon white/blue front LEDs with glint modulator so you can always see me in your mirrors and Im getting custom engine casings, and a lot of non standard parts for the bike that make it run better, drawing less electrical power and so on Ive only had the bike for 2 months, this isnt very good at all!

Im taking notes down on how you do the painting and get a good finish Why dont you make your own painting booth? I was thinking of setting up an area with an industrial fan to provide a constant flow of air in my garage. Or a heated fan with controllable temp so I could get the temp roughly how I need it Would that work or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Almost everyone speeds to some degree, we have already paid a price for it so why do we have to pay more for insurance for the years ahead. Funny how it wont counter in common sense

Let it heat up, open oil filler cap with a rag and leave for a minute or two so long as oil isnt spilling... Curious though, I would expect to see oil in the sight glass and not condensation Is it definately white gunk or is it something else possibly more troublesome?