JRH

Hi, welcome. Pop over to newbies and introduce yourself when you have time. Fuses are not fitted in the negative lines. Are you sure it is in the negative? If it is a fuse and is glowing red something is pulling far too much current, or the fuse is too small. Without a circuit diagram it is not easy to say what. If you are going to do work on the bike it would be worth getting a Haynes manual, that would have a diagram which would throw more light on the problem. Sorry can not be more help at the mo. Edit KC and KH seem to be similar bikes and have found a KH diagram. There is only 1 fuse and it is in the positive. Have a look at this and see if you can identify the part that is glowing.

Happy birthday MrB. Hope today is good for you.

Don't know but it has now changed. Must be the calendar fairies.

Just noticed that the calendar has not been updated still shows 30th for the meet.

Bleed the system but after you have either replaced the MC or the seals. If you have replaced the fluid and the caliper it only leaves the MC. The seals may be passing so you can bleed fluid through but not fully pressurise the system to operate the pads against the disc. Worth a shot.

Check to bulb first

Only £8.50 a go at Wimbledon

when do you want it done

flattery gets you everywhere.. not

ooppps skipped that bit. Yep switch off, isolated should be OK. Batteries and regulators do fail but that should not have done it. Mine is wired as GOG said ie via a relay. re reading, did the Tom Tom not come with a bike wiring kit? https://www.tomtom.com/en_gb/sat-nav/accessories/mounts-docks/bike-mount-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; like this

Cause the USB will be live if not through a relay and "could" eventually flatten the battery, just like an alarm.

Throw a sickie

Don't worry about the hi vis stuff. Some riders wear it, especially emergency service riders. Wear whatever you feel comfortable in. Smaller bikes do suffer more from gusts of wind unfortunately and it's just experience that enables you to deal with it. As Nick said If your visor will take a pinlock insert get one of those. A good bike shop should help you with that. A pinlock ready visor has two small holes in it to take the pinlock mounting pegs. However you do get the pegs with the pinlock and you can carefully drill the holes in the visor. Just takes some care with measuring etc. If your not confident in that again a helpful bike shop or friend may be able to help. Someone on here has done that. Training is always an option to help with confidence but there is always a cost to it. As already said don't bother with a camera yet. To be honest as a "big bike" rider i tend to give learners a wide berth when passing and see no reason to blast past close and at speed, unless they are chavs on L being prats. Ride defensively but not n the gutter, give yourself room to move an avoid the drains and being further out in the caridgeway can deter cars pushing past too close. Enjoy riding.

Congrats and well done.

Or are you after something like this http://www.aliexpress.com/item/CC-002-CR-Motorcycle-1-Inch-Chrome-Dual-Throttle-Clutch-Cable-Clamp-handlebar-For-Harley-Sportster/32467613146.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Oops its for 1" bars

Can you post a photo of the existing set up?

Left that for you

laser measuring from the back of the unit, calculate speed and then trigger as you pass, think that is what the write up is saying. so slowing suddenly won't work, allegedly

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-36763504" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

See this http://www.speedcamerasuk.com/watchman.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Say last update Feb 2016 still awaiting type approval. Seem to be able to calculate approach speed

You've not read Gin post then

well done

well done

Well done and all the best for Mod2