JRH

Yep not fun in the hay fever season.

You now need to make a version 3 and have your initials on the plugs.

That’s better. By the way at 47 seconds you did not actually stop at the stop sign.

I use Lithium batteries in my RC models. The only thing that kills them is miss use. Either running them to a too low voltage or overcharging. As long as vehicle batteries are in a good hard case and the charging system is suitable for Lithium all is good. Same here. They transformed my flying. The power to weight ratio is phenomenal. Treated with respect they are perfectly safe, the one nasty incident I saw was a guy who had a crash and didn't realize the battery had been damaged. They tend to catch fire very slowly, then go bang. He chucked the broken plane into his car, had lunch, flew another model and then his car went up in flames. It must have been a good couple of hours after the initial crash. I had one battery that puffed up badly after a crash. Within a day it had grown by about 50%. Never ruptured or ignited though. These day my RC stuff is mainly boats. But fast ones.

You need to get out on a bike. We need pictures on here to rival xtreme

I use Lithium batteries in my RC models. The only thing that kills them is miss use. Either running them to a too low voltage or overcharging. As long as vehicle batteries are in a good hard case and the charging system is suitable for Lithium all is good.

Blocked nozzle's my guess, oil is only fed down by gravity if it's like my old Scot oiler, it does not take much. Depending how it's positioned an air lock could also be an option... In winter with a scott oiler, I still added more spray oil from time to time as it would not keep up... The X system is a pumped feed, not gravity. It’s a cut down version of the e system. It’s the v system that is gravity.

NO. Ohms is for resistance. If the meter is capable of reading current you need to select either “A” or amp or amps or mA. Also make sure it is on DC not AC. Se picture below of meter selected to read Amps. Cheers jrh I'll have a look at mine in the morning, it was just a cheap halfords one so it might not Ok. Check out the edited post. Added an extra picture.

With the engine off disconnect the neg lead from the battery. Switch your multimeter to current (highest setting first if it's not autoranging) and connect between neg lead and neg terminal. You can then see how much current is being drawn with the bike turned off. You then start pulling fuses until the number drops and that's your culprit. The only thing you need to find out is what is an acceptable (normal) level of current with it off. Another good test that's been useful on cars for me, not bikes yet is to measure the voltage drop on the earth to chassis connection. If you go to turn the bike over but it's really sluggish, lights dip etc, but the battery checks out fine every other way it's possible that you've got a bad earth lead or bad earth connection. To find out, switch the multimeter to volts, set it to 12v range and place the probes as either end of the earth lead. Then try and start the bike. If your lead is good then the voltage drop should be close to zero but I've had them read 1-2v which is definitely going to affect starting. You then replace the earth lead or remake the chassis connection if you've taken that in to account. Fair enough, its sounds easy enough to do, but forgive my ignorance but which one is the current one? Is it the ohm sign one? I'm not too good with electrics lol NO. Ohms is for resistance. If the meter is capable of reading current you need to select either “A” or amp or amps or mA. Also make sure it is on DC not AC. Se picture below of meter selected to read Amps. Also note there may be different sockets for the probes again see picture below.

What are your impressions of the Honda Fury ? That is a Fury isn't it ? I saw one of these in Applecross which means someone rode it up the Bealach na Ba . Quite an achievement with a wheelbase like that . Could have come from the northern route. Took the car to Applecross via Bealach na Ba. that was bad enough, don’t think I would like to tackle it on a bike with that wheelbase.

I keep filling my garage up with things like this.

I have Daytona Voyager GTX boots with GoreTex liner. Not cheap but fully waterproof, comfortable on the bike and reasonably comfortable for walking.

Cold, windy but dry day out. Yew Tree Farm

Yes me. Run out from Leam Spa to Wootton Wawen. Then on to touchdown cafe at Wellesbourne . So far avoided all the rain and it's a sunny 6 deg C.

Absolutely. I find it hard to compare old tyres to new - new ones always tip in way quicker which of course they would, as they're pointy in the middle, not flat. The front Bridgestones on My GPX were dual compound with the centre being the harder. So I always wore the sides down first and it always ended up like riding on a knife edge. Then the bike tipped in way way too quick. It was real fun not. Then on a new front tyre the tip in was slower and much more controlled.

Also check side stand switch and any other start inhibits as the wiring may have been damaged. Also worth putting a live battery feed onto the solenoid and check that works.

I have a Scala Rider Q1. That pairs to both phone and Garmin SatNav. The Garmin can also handle phone calls but I haven’t set that up.

Braved the wind to get Birdland. Birdland

[mention]Richzx6r[/mention] how do you have so much spare wall space?

Well if I can’t get out on the bike , might take this to the water and see how fast it goes.

Might get out if the floods have gone and I can get out to the Fosse way. Not going the other way as I might end up in Coventry.

What's that in new money? 0.125 turns

Basically YES. Shared ground wire is just the same as connecting all the grounds to a single frame point or all back to the negative earth terminal. I just took a fused live to a relay. Relay being switched from the ignition so no time delay. Then from the switched Output into a terminal block like a chocky block, then separate fused feeds to each device. Then the negative from the devices to the nearest best grounded point. Not as fancy as the power hub but a dam sight cheaper.

went yesterday, seems to get smaller every year I agree, it does. There were several retail stands missing this year that have been there previously. On other news can’t confirm the existence of [mention]Hoggs[/mention] but I did spot this.

Ok , must be entirely automatic . Do you have a reserve switch though ? It may be the same as in My GPX. The fuel tap is a vacuum operated unit but there is a prime facility which on the GPX was a button at the rear of the fuel “tap”. So fuel will run out if the button is pressed. Or the unit may just be knackered. Good to see your little one helping. She’ll have a bike if her own in next to no time. Then the fun starts.