JRH

It’s not easy. This was at f9 1/40 sec manual taken with a Canon 7D using a canon 70 - 300 lens at 300mm. That was a good lens wish I had not sold it. I find a full moon hard due to the amount of reflected light.

[mention]Troy[/mention] my own opinion. I would leave using manual until you have an understanding of how the settings affect the picture. My camera is left on P (program )setting. This is so if something appears suddenly I can grab a snap shot and know that it is going to come out. If I have a little more time I can use the “wheel” to change the shutter / aperture relationship to get what I want. I only tend to to use manual for static subjects even then not often. For landscape I would use aperture priority (Av) to select the depth of field (amount in focus) I want. For moving things shutter priority (Tv). With regards to the edges of the picture being soft, this is a function of the lens. All lenses are pin sharp in the Center and the focus goes softer towards the edges. Generally the more expensive the lens the less this happens. This is also a function of the selected aperture. With f4 f5.6 the edges will be softer than using f11 f16 for example. With the arms slightly blurred this is due to the shutter speed too slow. Sport mode may not increase shutter speed enough. This is where you may want to use Tv and set the speed manually. The aperture will then sort itself out. Watch for the warnings in the view finder in case a suitable aperture can not be found. The centre focus point is the most sensitive and will follow focus quicker. If you move from this point for moving subjects it may be a little slow to update. Also if you use live view focusing can be slower. I rarely delete poor photos until I have looked at them for a while to see what was not quite right. I also shoot in JPEG and RAW mode and if the light is not quite right this can be better corrected in RAW mode rather than JPEG. To view the RAW pictures you will need to download the software from Canon but if the discs Came with the camera it should be on there.

And I expect none of the photos you took are suitable for here.

Yes but I would probably need 160000000 But then you would not need the wood burner.

If you look at tankbags initial posting there is now a FB link for Scotland.

[mention]MarkW[/mention] i agree with Bender on the sherry attraction. I like the car I’ve tried Painting with light and never got it right. Would love to do good black and white photography but whenever I see it in exhibitions it just encourages me to give up on it.

The covers are missing off the conduit boxes. Phone cameras are generally quite good.

Amazing snaps of the indigenous birds of Warwickshire <3 Puffins on Treshnish islands during a Scottish holiday and the others at an open day at EOS magazine headquarters in Oxfordshire.

As Rant says The depth of Field (DoF) is the amount of picture that is in focus. This is controlled mainly by the aperture and to a degree by the focal length of the lens. Years ago there was a depth of field guide marked on the lenses from which you could see the approx distances in focus. To learn a little more on this you could download a “depth of field” app fir either Apple or android. Some of these show in diagram form the relationship between the actual focus point and the near and far points in focus. Have a look here https://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/depth_of_field_calculator.do And here https://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/lenses/focusing_and_depth_of_field.do So in essence a small aperture eg f22 gives a big depth of field (lots in focus) And a large aperture eg f2.4 small DOF not much in focus. Ideal for throwing a distracting background out of focus. HTH.

[mention]Troy[/mention] some good examples of photography. There are always different ways to look at photos depending on the results you were looking for, so with that caveat don’t take my comments as gospel. No2. I like that it’s the sort of thing I do. It is hard to take that with out burning out the highlights. No3.i would have reduced the depth of field to isolate the brown leaf more (ore moved the green frond that covers part of the leaf). No4. No9. Rose. Nice star burst with out a filter. The colours work well here. I may have widened the depth of field to get all the flower in focus while still blurring the background. No10. This looks like you focused on the boy and as such the girl is slightly soft (out of focus). Soft focus can work well but should just be in one subject. Portraiture is very difficult (in my eyes). For one person focus on the eyes. For 2 try to focus on a mid point and if you can check the depth of field in camera to check all is sharp. Always check where the auto focus point is and where necessary focus where you need and then recompose. Or you could move the focus point. On the puffin I posted the focus point was moved towards the top of the frame so I had the bird in the frame Center but focus was on the beak. As I say these are my thoughts.

Yes! I am fast learning that fact. I was already looking at a "Prime" lens and was shocked at the cost of them!! I was looking for an everyday lens that I could carry with me, without having to carry my whole bag of gear all the time. I have had Canon stuff since the ‘90s starting with 35mm film. (Other makes before that). I have slowly added to the collection and upgraded. A lot of my stuff is now in the semi pro bracket and much is secondhand. I have a good branch of London Camera Exchange nearby and a lot has come from there. I only have one prime lens and that is a 50mm f1.8 which I bought decades ago. The feat of the lenses are zoom. I find these better to carry as it give more flexibility, the down side is the weight.

A brave statement on here.

In my early times I dabbled with some filters but never really always got on with the effects, they were either very OTT or the effect not noticeable and this was in the days of 35mm film. So they were expensive mistakes. Now I have a UV filter on each lens but this is mainly to protect the front element (needed it once, damaged the filter no damage to lens). But some cheaper UV filters can have a detrimental effect on the images. The only other filters you may need are polarising (to cut out reflections) or a Neutral Density filter.

For motor sport you will need to practise the art of panning. This will give you an infocus vehicle and a blurred background to give the feeling of speed. If the shutter speed is too high you freeze the vehicle and the background so it all looks stationary. Now if you are panning with a lens that has stabilisation you will need to turn it off. Some lenses have a 2 stage stabilisation. I know this ‘cause at my age all my lenses have stabilisation Also if you use a tripod stabilisation off.

As[mention]RantMachine[/mention] says there is no correct use for each lens. There is a general thing of zoom for distant things wide angle for landscapes but each type of lens has different characteristics that are useful in many areas. I would suggest pick an view and use each lens to take the “same” shot and study the different results For portrait it is often suggested to use a 100 mm lens to get the best result, but again experiment. The only thing is unless you really want to distort things don’t use a wide angle lens too close for faces. Your 18-55 is not really a true macro lens. It is the general kit / starter lens to give a good variable lens. The other 2 lenses are a good choice of zooms. Be very careful with this hobby as it can become as expensive as motorcycling. If you want to read a bit more into Canon cameras have a look at EOS magazine. I have this mag delivered 4 times a year and it gives info on each camera and often tutorials to use each feature. There are also canon only magazines available in WHSmiths for example.

When I can get out I do enjoy photography as a hobby. Although I do use the phone (usually when I haven’t got my camera) my main weapon of choice is a Canon DSLR with a Panasonic LUMIX as backup Just ask the questions and if folk can help they will.

Chains fine. Quick squirt of WD40 and all’s well.

Looked at it.

Happy birthday [mention]XTreme[/mention] try and have a good day.

On a pushbike site it advises against mixing mineral and DOT as damage to the seals can happen. HTH

Hi and welcome

Hang it on the handle bars like most do. Oh I se a problem.

I was thinking elastic bands and a freezer bag, our idea of cheap seem to differ lol. I’ve done that.