smallfrowne

Eee aye thas raite. An back then tha'd only av pushrods n side valves to get thee abaat.

Eee I gu tu foot uh arr stairs

And the flanges... Yeah they must be imprisoned basically which is why I mentioned you probably definitely maybe might as well get a new set of downpipes anyway. Probably why oldgrump's pal got theirs welded. Replacing them would involve cutting, grinding and welding anyway.

Sorry yes. Just asking stupid questions to cover other possibilities. And by asking if it was crushed all I was thinking was that if it had been crushed it would have shown that that it would be making a seal, ie done up. But since the studs aren't short of course you can clearly see the nuts aren't on enough. Anyway none of that matters, and scrolling back it's looked dodgy as soon as you started to but the exhaust back on in the first place. With that "new” zorst you should be sorted. Apart from still needing to get up them stairs

Looking at the latest pictures you took, there isn't any of the nearside. Did the gaskets there get crushed? I Also, did you replace the studs? (I think you mentioned something about nuts or studs) if so, could they just be a bit short?

Which one do you want? Personally I like the double siders.

Amazing. Thank you. I can at least sleep soundly this weekend now. Looks like you could probably do with getting a few more gaskets then for the few quid they cost.

Personal preference mainly. Originalality. Condition Vs the other one and your current silencers (which you said was fine). Whether you'd feel inclined to notify your insurance jobbos about such a mad mod. Up to you really. Possibly a minor rejetting or fannying with carbs required, but pfft also probably not bother and it'll run ok.

Hmm well it's already broke, so as they tell me at work it isn't going to make it any worse. But then they do tend to overlook anything but the immediate issue... Hmm you are definitely going to need new flanges, but how do you get them off to replace? Are they effectively locked onto the pipes? As in they can move but they can't be removed. If so, forget about it and get your buy it now finger out. Edit: when I say definitely, I mean probably. Maybe.

Ah yes I forgot what got us to this point I'd have thought you'd need to match what you have already. Edit: I can't read (whole system). Up to you then Might be able to reuse the gaskets at least since they haven't been squished. Have you tried bending it back? How bad we talking? Can't be too far off seeing as you nearly got them back on.

Yeah, this is where I'm not convinced about them sitting flush on the outside of the head. Maybe they do but usually the copper ring sits in the recess. I need photos before I belieeeeve (in love after love)

Bugger. Looks like they weren't sitting right and you've tried to force them in on the wonk. They might be secure ish but that one on the right is struggling. Start it up and find out but be prepared for leakage and having to try again. It does seem like the whole lot needs nudging clockwise looking from the nearside of the bike, maybe by being disconnected from the silencer(s) and having a right good jiggle/ light taps with a nice soft hammer. I'd still like a shot of cylinder head where the exhausts are meant to go, I still feel iffy about this "sitting flush" malarkey

Cold chisel: https://www.toolstation.com/roughneck-cold-chisel/p50449

Right oh. Keep it filed with the other important stuff under the protective detritus pile.

Vis-a-vee getting proof of being jabbed - are people generally getting anything back post inoc. to wave about at the border guards/gendarm/patisserie workers? I'm not one to make a fuss like, in->jabbed->out is the plan - I can't be stood there asking for a note and explaining how I've got an important date with a schnitzel (or 3) in September, or maybe I can, especially if I've got another note explaining why from Big Geronotious as well.

Bugger.

Such a nice soothing post to read.

Ah yes of course. How odd though, I'm not used to that.

Just to be sure, have you removed the old gaskets? I always forget because they're usually camouflaged in black soot.

Looking good.

Don't forget to only use bike specific scotchbrite sheets as well. I get mine from home bargains.

Yeah I usually start off steady with something softer than the aluminium, like the sharpened end of a toothbrush shiv. But I always end up reverting back to using the gouging power of a nice scrapey screwdriver or a Stanley blade. Just don't go mad and get the radio on, or anything to keep you going, it's quite a boring fiddly job but you've just got to do it. I often wander off to do anything else when the cramp and rsi creeps in. Scrapey scrapey la la la scrapey scrapey la la la laaaa. It sends me mad. Upside down on a wet floor with the wind blowing the oil and flapping everything about, it'll be something to savour.

Two almost-but-not-quite related things maybe? If a cog was in backwards surely all that would happen is that the dogs wouldn't be able to engage properly. Sort of like having two male ended connectors.

Toyota Prius also had a bit of bother iirc with an erratic throttle didn't it? Anyway what's the special pannier leaflet? "Do not exceed 130kph"? - this what was on snodder's K100 panniers, but he smashed it (the limit, not the panniers), as can be seen from his profile pic which was achieved avec luggage.

Just to chime in weeks after the event... I had an issue with the rear brake on my bike a few years ago. Going along at national speed it stuck on but the bike just felt suspiciously sluggish, then when I came to a complete stop the restart was obviously even more suspicious, setting off with the handbrake on always does feel odd. It stank. The brake had seen a good thrashing and I assumed the rubber seals in the caliper had a right good baking. I stopped to let it cool down and see if I could free it off, but just by waiting it freed off. The seals didn't actually completely die and leak but I replaced them anyway. It did it again. In the end I think it was due to a spec of some rotten detritus in the master cylinder. There are two little holes which I presume allows brake fluid to flow in and out of the system from the reservoir, one of which had this bit of a blockage - the hole was tiny anyway. I think maybe if the return hole was blocked then hot expanding brake fluid wasn't allowed to go anywhere except to push the pistons out and the brake on. Does this sound about right anyone? Anyway. Could it be something like this? On my bike it was something that happened only on occasion, I think it happened one other time previously as well but sorted itself out no drama (so maybe 3 times total), but after removing that spec of dust it hasn't happened since.