Ingah

+1. And another +1 to the idea of using a decent G-clamp (don't use a cheap and naff one or it might break. So i found) and the old pads.

Well it'll be drawing more power and this will be hindering the re-charging process... Try riding on sidelights for a while?

Tried this but there was no ability to pull the lever as the cable was too tight. In the end, using a new cable (old one was pretty damaged anyway) found the same problem. So took the brake arm out, changed the orientation (originally the markings were lined up, now they're clearly not, but it doesn't matter), and banged it down hard with a rubber mallet. This worked susprisingly well (went down fully 1st hit!) Then put it back together and was able to do it easily. Very strange that correct orientation = fail.

If you have a multimeter and a manual check your regulator/rectifier.

Haynes has the procedure for checking the reg/rect by checking the voltages between the different contacts.

Awesome. Am back in from the garage for now as i'm aching so maybe not today. But sounds like a pleasent change - Haynes making the job sound harder than it really is, instead of easier

Quick question as i'm in the garage finishing off my tank so 'while i'm out there I might as well' change my rear dual shocks for the new ones. Anyone got any suggestions for how to hold the rear end of the bike up whilst you change the shocks without an assistant to do it for you?

Reg/rects do get hot (that's what kills them over time). Not sure what to make of your idle giving 2 different voltage readings. Can you try revving and holding it at 5.5-6K RPM and how much of an increase in voltage do you get from idle at that RPM? Got any accessories connected? 14V is about what i'd expect when revving, especially given that multimeters have a degree of inaccuracy.

I've considered this, however it would be very awkward to get the brake arm (part 9) back on if it's not in the position it's in due to a cut-out. It's clearly only designed to go in one position. It's something i may have to do anyway though! It's nearly fully threaded in. Though i must admit, i was having problems with the last little bit due it not turning and even pliers slipping on it. Will probably have a bash with my special "high grip" ones, and a towel. It's an aggravation because if i disconnected the cable from the handlebar brake lever this would be easy to do, but then it wouldn't go back in the lever!

I'm having a problem getting the front drum brake sorted on my CG - it's almost as though the cable's too short? (it's not) And i really need the bike sorted ASAP to get to work on! (as CB500 is out of commission until i derust the tank) Can't get the end of the brake cable (the threaded metal bar) through the hole (part 14) that holds it to the arm on the brake (or at least, not properly, as there's next to no "bar" left to put the nut onto). http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/hpl/i ... __0800.jpg The cable along with the metal bar end is part 7 on here: http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/hpl/i ... __0302.jpg Just wondered what i was (probably) doing wrong, as it stands currently i can get the nut (part 15) only half on (and then gave it a try, and it pinged off as it wasn't secure enough!) I have before this stripped the brake for cleaning etc, but i put it back in the marked position, so i don't want to jump to the conclusion i've put the brake arm on at the wrong orientation, but will strip again if there's nothing else i can check first.

Looks like i'll be setting off tomorrow morning now as the simple-sounding job of changing the handlebars (and other bits), was anything but, and took all day!

I'll be probably arriving sometime this evening, as the CB500 repairwork has turned into a bit of mission as usual. That and i'm only "half-packed" (i.e. most of the stuff i need has been dumped on the bed). Forgot to buy fancy dress though

As i just mentioned in the other thread, am hoping to bring my Morgan CarbTune 4. Will also try to remember to bring my feeler gauges, but suggest someone else does too because it's the sort of thing i'll forget.

I've got Morgan CarbTune 4. Happy to bring them if necessary and they'll fit on the bike. If it gets me there.

So basically... instead of using a disclock you festoon your bike with a disco ropelight? Does it flash? It might as well do something else, for all the use it is as a "security" item

Mine needs checking (was last checked over 2 years ago so its a couple of months overdue). It's only a parallel twin, but that'll make it easier if anything. This is assuming it gets me there of course. (It's famous for being unreliable)

Don't know the legality, but in the 2 eye thing is only one depth cue of many and it does not affect your distance judgement all that much. So many depth cues. I was unfortunate enough to have had to do 1000s of tests in a university level experiment, to (re-)determine this well known fact

Yes please :D How about carburettor syncronisation? I'm really wanting to do it to my own bike (poor mpg, vibratey, etc - even got as far as buying myself a set of Morgan CarbTune 4!), but i'm scared i'll mess it up (first time and something always goes wrong when i try a job for the first time ) and consequently not be able to come to the rally. So was probably going to leave it. It certainly needs it, 2 years since it was last done, and it was restricted at that point!

With regards to my 2002 CG125 - Centre stand spring / return mechanism (picture here: http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda ... ck_03=1983 ). The springs (numbers 2 and 3) are one inside the other (as in the diagrams), but i'm struggling to work out exactly how to get the springs around the mounting points. There's a little sticky-out-lug on the frame above the rear brake pivot point, this is clearly the frame-side mounting point - and whilst i can get the C-shaped object (look at part 4 in diagram) around this lug, and then the springs through the 2nd hole in the C-shaped object and even to the "hook" in the centre stand, the springs then proceed to fall off when i pull the stand up. This is because they need attaching a certain way (i.e. properly). One certainly goes in the other, as in my picture, but i can't seem to stretch them both far enough despite putting all my grunt in. So, do i need a spring puller to make the job easier? Or there is an easy/proper way to do this? (it's not in the haynes manual amazingly!) Have looked around the net but apart from people suggesting potentially dangerous stuff, like holding the gaps in the outer spring open with pennies no one has been able to suggest anything very useful.

Yes. Round key = can be opened by a penlid. Flat key = not susceptible. Single locking = can be forced open easily as there's nothing holding the pin inside the body of the lock. Double locking = better, hard to force open. Alarms = depending on location of speaker, can be silenced with a quick screwdriver through the speaker. And also some go off far too easily. And some drain batteries something terrible. Locking pin size = thicker the better. All that said, it doesn't prevent your bike being lifted away, so anything that can't be easily bashed off (NB: some can be!) will probably do just as good a job of preventing the joyriders tearing off on it.

I'm TPO. There's some strong incentive, right there

I'm coming on me CB500.

90 seconds is how long Almax believe their series 3 would last against professional thieves (i took it to mean against an angle grinder). This is far and away a superior time, and MORE than sufficient for anyone that keeps their bike within hearing distance. And anyone that doesn't? It wouldn't matter. The important thing, is that it can't be beaten silently (by bolt cropper / hacksaw etc), unlike 99% of the motorbike chain market. Colin, apparently you need to use an anvil too to break the almax with a sledgehammer. And it won't give up on first hit, as i'm aware.

Definite +1 for this bit particularly, it sounds like it's well gone (i'd go further and suggest if it comes any more than halfway to the end of the tooth, it's bin-worthy). Remember the sprockets too, unless you don't mind buying a new chain, again, soon!

Mention that you were recommended on here and hopefully they'll throw in a free tailpack to carry it around in. Don't ever try to carry it in a rucsak!