fastbob

There's nothing left to repair I'm afraid. Pity because I was going to suggest ramming an empty Steradent container over what was left . Not my idea but I once bought a bike that had been repaired in this way . I dont think I discovered it for quite a while !

Hello , I've always referred to it as a Throttle Tube. Stick that in eBay and you will see a selection available.

Get them to collect it too and don't pay them any more money. ( don't know what I was thinking earlier, sorry )

Of course you are not restricted to motorcycle engines .

Halfords do bleed air pipe , might fit , probably cheaper .

Actually , on reflection, what Mike said !

A CB 500 has a centre stand right ? Well just get someone to push down on the back end while you slip a box or something under the engine. You'll soon figure out what's doing it when you move the bars from side to side . I suspect that it's an incorrectly routed cable or brake line , its easy to forget where everything went when the forks are out . Post some pics if your still not sure . I wouldn't ride it until you have free movement in each direction .

It's really just a question of taste combined with practicality.

if its your CG then I do have a very good idea why, see my other post .

I've probably got an old CG speedo , that's the original round type , that you can have . I live in Coventry so I could easily nip out to meet you half way ( ish ) at Bikers World at Coleshill . I'll PM you if I do have one. I've rebuilt a lot of CGs in the past so I would be happy to look at your bike if you want . By the way, I'm assuming its your CG , you don't give any details at all in your original post so I checked your profile .

A Vis favorite of mine.

Seriously though, you need to get in there amongst the electrics inside the headlamp and pop all connections apart and remove all traces of water . You probably just have a short somewhere caused by the soaking the bike got the other day. To help stop this happening again try sealing the headlamp shell by running electrical tape around the rim .

This is God's punishment for putting an AJS badge on a Chinese cruiser style 125

Out of curiosity, do you think your bike is actually performing badly as a result ?

Did you ring NRP ? The fact that your particular ones are listed as " ring for price " doesn't look good I'm afraid.

This place is good http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/

I always find it false economy to buy premixed! I never considered it from an economic point of view . I meant that you don't have to buy it rather than you don't have to pay for it . Good point though.

Glad you fixed it, so how do you BUM start a bike ? Sounds painful. Next job is to try to find out what caused the fuse to blow .

Use any known brand of pre-mix then you don't have to buy de- ionised water as well . Halfords etc.

I wish I didn't know about this, I feel like a kid in a sweet shop with no pocket money ! . There's potentially thousands of pounds worth in there but it would take years to identify it all and put it on eBay . Hopefully someone with a big van will make you a big offer for the lot . Good luck.

Nor can I but in the Haynes manual for the CG 125 its 16.5 to 20 Ft - lbs . It can't be much different.

Well I'm not sure , this is the engine torque settings page and this is all you get . Surely the cylinder head bolt settings wouldn't be else where in the manual ? Bearing in mind it does stud bolt rather than stud and nut . Well I am. 8ft-lbs ain't enough for a cylinder head/barrel hold-down unless it's an engine for a model plane. The quoted torque is for the stud, not the nut that goes on it. And another thing - if the OP is too tight to buy a proper manual, then there's no way they will have invested in a torque wrench anyway......just sayin'. Yep , you are quite right, I've just looked in my CG manual and its 16 - 20 ft-lbs so 8ft - lbs is definitely too low . The thing is , the proper manual is available as a free download from various sites but the cylinder head torque settings are difficult to find . Anyway it killed an hour while I was at the dentists. As soon as i stop dribbling I'm off to fit some brake shoes to the ER5.

Well I'm not sure , this is the engine torque settings page and this is all you get . Surely the cylinder head bolt settings wouldn't be else where in the manual ? Bearing in mind it does say stud bolt rather than stud and nut .

Same again, strip it , clean it and give the commutator plates a buff with the finest wet and dry paper (2500) There's many a good starter motor thrown away when all that was needed was a good clean .

Here you go .