fastbob

Aha, I've just realised its a Suzuki throttle tube . That bit that's still visible in the picture is particular to Suzuki. This means that you can only fit genuine Suzuki grips because all after market grips are not designed to fit over that conical flange. That's not to say you cant actually fit them but they just won't look very neat . There is , however, a solution and that is to buy Pro-grips that come with a Suzuki adapter or at least some of them do and there no guarantee there will be one in the box unless you buy over the counter. I'll nip out to my shed and take a pic to clarify what I mean . The other solution is to fit a non specific throttle tube that will accept any grip. Ok, here you go , that black plastic ring with the textured surface is the bit I mean. By the way , those Oxford Fat Grips are great .

There's nothing left to repair I'm afraid. Pity because I was going to suggest ramming an empty Steradent container over what was left . Not my idea but I once bought a bike that had been repaired in this way . I dont think I discovered it for quite a while !

Hello , I've always referred to it as a Throttle Tube. Stick that in eBay and you will see a selection available.

Get them to collect it too and don't pay them any more money. ( don't know what I was thinking earlier, sorry )

Of course you are not restricted to motorcycle engines .

Halfords do bleed air pipe , might fit , probably cheaper .

Actually , on reflection, what Mike said !

A CB 500 has a centre stand right ? Well just get someone to push down on the back end while you slip a box or something under the engine. You'll soon figure out what's doing it when you move the bars from side to side . I suspect that it's an incorrectly routed cable or brake line , its easy to forget where everything went when the forks are out . Post some pics if your still not sure . I wouldn't ride it until you have free movement in each direction .

It's really just a question of taste combined with practicality.

if its your CG then I do have a very good idea why, see my other post .

I've probably got an old CG speedo , that's the original round type , that you can have . I live in Coventry so I could easily nip out to meet you half way ( ish ) at Bikers World at Coleshill . I'll PM you if I do have one. I've rebuilt a lot of CGs in the past so I would be happy to look at your bike if you want . By the way, I'm assuming its your CG , you don't give any details at all in your original post so I checked your profile .

A Vis favorite of mine.

Seriously though, you need to get in there amongst the electrics inside the headlamp and pop all connections apart and remove all traces of water . You probably just have a short somewhere caused by the soaking the bike got the other day. To help stop this happening again try sealing the headlamp shell by running electrical tape around the rim .

This is God's punishment for putting an AJS badge on a Chinese cruiser style 125

Out of curiosity, do you think your bike is actually performing badly as a result ?

Did you ring NRP ? The fact that your particular ones are listed as " ring for price " doesn't look good I'm afraid.

This place is good http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/

I always find it false economy to buy premixed! I never considered it from an economic point of view . I meant that you don't have to buy it rather than you don't have to pay for it . Good point though.

Glad you fixed it, so how do you BUM start a bike ? Sounds painful. Next job is to try to find out what caused the fuse to blow .

Use any known brand of pre-mix then you don't have to buy de- ionised water as well . Halfords etc.

I wish I didn't know about this, I feel like a kid in a sweet shop with no pocket money ! . There's potentially thousands of pounds worth in there but it would take years to identify it all and put it on eBay . Hopefully someone with a big van will make you a big offer for the lot . Good luck.

Nor can I but in the Haynes manual for the CG 125 its 16.5 to 20 Ft - lbs . It can't be much different.

Well I'm not sure , this is the engine torque settings page and this is all you get . Surely the cylinder head bolt settings wouldn't be else where in the manual ? Bearing in mind it does stud bolt rather than stud and nut . Well I am. 8ft-lbs ain't enough for a cylinder head/barrel hold-down unless it's an engine for a model plane. The quoted torque is for the stud, not the nut that goes on it. And another thing - if the OP is too tight to buy a proper manual, then there's no way they will have invested in a torque wrench anyway......just sayin'. Yep , you are quite right, I've just looked in my CG manual and its 16 - 20 ft-lbs so 8ft - lbs is definitely too low . The thing is , the proper manual is available as a free download from various sites but the cylinder head torque settings are difficult to find . Anyway it killed an hour while I was at the dentists. As soon as i stop dribbling I'm off to fit some brake shoes to the ER5.

Well I'm not sure , this is the engine torque settings page and this is all you get . Surely the cylinder head bolt settings wouldn't be else where in the manual ? Bearing in mind it does say stud bolt rather than stud and nut .

Same again, strip it , clean it and give the commutator plates a buff with the finest wet and dry paper (2500) There's many a good starter motor thrown away when all that was needed was a good clean .