fastbob

Another one , sorry, what's CCT ? I do wish posters would refrain from using abbreviations'.

Forgive my ignorance, CP ?

I took the GSXR on a blast to Matlock today and I am delighted to report that no matter how viciously I yanked on the throttle the bike pulled like a train without any hint of clutch slippage. So as soon as I've scraped all the dead bugs off its up for sale . Or maybe I should leave them on as a selling point !

I'll go for a stuck float valve or two that doesn't close properly because the rubber tip has dried out and shrunk or gone hard . This could explain why it picks up once the excess fuel is used up . Carb repair kits are readily available.

Sorry Fastbob but that is why I specified 'Gorilla Glue' rather than 'Superglue' - Superglue is too brittle and perishes with humidity (!) whereas Gorilla glue retains some flexibility and does not perish when in contact with fuel. I have used this before and the carb functioned without further failure for over 3 years! I agree that replacement is 'better' but if the OP wants to save a few pennies - Then this solution works. Fair enough, maybe I'll give it a go one day .

Patching up diaphragms with glue ? I mean no disrespect but the idea does not appeal to me . Better just to buy a new diaphragm. Diaphragms operate in a sealed environment where there is nothing to actually put a hole in one . If you do have a hole I would assume that the material has perished and even if you do repair it successfully it's only going to fail again somewhere else. Coating part of a diaphragm with glue is also likely to make it stiff which may well interfere with the smooth operation of the throttle slide . £30 might seem a bit steep for a bit of neoprene but it may well prove to be money well spent in the long run.

Throttle position sensor Maybe Thank you If that's what it is then I don't think leaving it off would be a very good idea. It's there for a reason as previously stated .

What's a TPS ?

Just as a footnote, I must say that it was remarkably generous of EBC to give me a full replacement clutch kit free of charge . Bearing in mind that they are the manufacturer and not the vendor and that they never even asked to see my receipt makes it even more generous. Nice to see a bit of good old fashioned trust for a change . Excellent people to deal with particularly the friendly emails outside of office hours plus free postage both ways, fast turnaround too . I posted the knackered one on Thursday and received the new one on Tuesday. Brilliant !

Switch on lights, add teabag , hey presto, light refreshment !

What , like pins in legs ? Unfortunately they are very much needed but got some carbon fibre upgrades on order from China... What's worse that can happen How are you doing anyway? Is it getting more comfortable?

What , like pins in legs ?

Only messing, its an old standard diaphragm spring , I've just fitted HD ones which came in the kit.

Oh shit ! Where does this bit go ..............only joking !

A big thank you to everyone who contributed to this little saga .

Oh yeah ?

I'd worry about new tyres AFTER the track day . ☺

Lovely bike but it doesn't look loud enough!

OK , been down the library and looked a some Haynes manual ( 'Busa, TL, GSF 12&6, GSF1250 &650,GSX1400R GSXR 600 etc etc ) and they ALL agree its small diameter INWARDS . So that's what I'm going to do .

I think a consensus is forming here .

I would have twatted it with a hammer ages ago

Thanks for that ! Actually its the same way round but the " seat" sits on top of it .

Thanks for that ! Your welcome. You would think that the washers are all installed the same way though. On one Suzuki forum a mechanic stated that he had changed 100+ clutches on the same model bike and even the factory didn't know which way up this wretched thing is supposed to go ! I'm going to go with the 'Busa / TL method but I'm going to have a look at some Haynes manuals in the library at lunchtime. The problem with my bike is that it was only made for one year . The WR is a a different bike right down to the frame although from a distance they look the same . Therefore there is no non factory manual for it . I've only got a paper manual for the L M and N oil cooled models which apart from a water jacket are the same bike more or less. The wear marks I found suggest that the 'Busa / TL method is correct and that my conclusion that the garage made a mistake was in fact wrong .

Good idea , might try Robinsons .

Thanks for that !