fastbob

You can always saw a bit off but it is unlikely that your Honda bar ends will fit because alloy bars have a smaller inside diameter. Don't saw too much off or the controls won't fit . As previously mentioned, measure everything first then go to a good MX shop with your tape measure.

My fan has only come on once I think , ER's seem to not get too hot anyway. Incidentally mine actually has a GPZ fan unit on it which does fit with a bit of bracket hanging down . An ER5 unit will not fit a GPZ however. The fan motor itself can be swapped but you have to remove the fan and that can be difficult because there's a little nut that easily rounds off. Usually its just muck and stones jammed between the blades and the rad.

Hi , I have an ER5 which is pretty much the same as a GPZ 500 . The temp gauge should move a bit when the engine warms up . Also the fan should turn freely by hand . When I got mine it was in a sorry state with the fan melted to the radiator so I would whip the whole thing off and check it out . PM me anytime if you need help because I've had to learn a lot about these bikes recently. Its a brilliant engine once its properly sorted though. oh yeah, be careful if the bolts holding the rad guard are rusted because the rad lugs are soft metal and tend to twist.

If you mean the diameter it's 7/8ths of an inch because motorbikes have been around long before the French metric system was imposed upon us . Harleys have inch thick bars but some of them are fake nowadays and some Renthal bars are even fatter in the middle . Avoid stainless steel bars because they are really hard to drill holes in I.e. to stop your RH switch gear moving when you twist the throttle. In other words your bars are standard thickness so as long as all the cables reach you can often get away with a SLIGHT change of style.

I'm getting so good at removing GSXR clutches that if you give me an impact wrench I could do one in a pit stop ! Having TWO telescopic magnetic thingy's is the secret . 🛠

Bev , I haven't got a bike to offer but it sounds like a great idea. I'm sure I speak for many of us on this site when I say that tinkering with bikes has a beneficial effect on anyone's mental health . Good luck , let us know how this turns out .

With the clutch cover off , the plates move quickly and return quickly when the lever is operated and released. My hand can feel the springyness of the springs if that makes sense . There is a good visible movement . Just an update , EBC have agreed to arrange collection so you never know, I might get a replacement

When I worked in a bike shop an overweight bloke arrived just about ready to drop from exhaustion having pushed a 600 Bandit about half a mile . It took a lot of effort not to be smug when I flicked the kill switch and started it . Poor sod had knocked it with his glove . We made him a cup of tea. ...can't help feeling like I've heard this story before but from the other side You mean it was you ? Blue jacket , M&P Coventry?

You stuck wires in the connection but maybe its not supposed to start if the circuit is closed , maybe it starts when the circuit is open .

If the engine turns over with the kill switch off this is not normal so maybe the fault is with the switch or the circuit .

Ive been thinking about this... was it was van vans Could be.

I haven't got this wrong have I ? I felt sure it was YBRs that this has been a frequent problem on but I'm not finding any references or pictures .

Here's a wild guess , you or the previous owner , did an oil change and when they undid the sump plug a knob shaped thing and a spring popped out . This because they ( or you ) undid the wrong plug and the neutral peg ( I can't remember the correct name right now ) came out but was not put back correctly. This is seemingly quite a common occurrence and has been reported here a few times . I don't know for sure but this could be at the root of your problem. The only thing you can do is positively identity the RIGHT drain plug and then take the WRONG one out then check its correct installation against the manual. I can post a pic to illustrate what I mean later this evening.

Are you sure its not hedgehog shit ?

Your exhaust can has an outlet that is so small that you can cover it with ONE finger ? Stranger still you state that the offending ticking noise stops instantly when you do so . So surely the noise is coming from the exhaust. Sorry but I can't quite see what the situation is here.

Have you actually read the owners handbook particularly the section on riding the machine and how to change gear ?

Exhaust leaks do tick, what are you putting your finger over ? A hole ? Have you tried using a long screwdriver as a stethoscope ? (Put the blunt end in your ear)

With the clutch cover off , the plates move quickly and return quickly when the lever is operated and released. My hand can feel the springyness of the springs if that makes sense . There is a good visible movement .

Mobil 1 is fully synthetic Or if you mean castrol power 1 racing then thats also fully synth Castrol power 1 is semi synth yeah sorry, Castrol power 1

Ebc tech support have asked for pictures. Trying to determine if Mobil power 1 is full or semi .

Haven't checked that yet.

Yes

A free set from EBC would be nice

Stu , exactly which bits would you describe as scorching ? The steel plates with all the nice fancy colours Interesting , that all cleaned off easily with a Scotchpad revealing the original silver finish.

Stu , exactly which bits would you describe as scorching ?