fastbob

In St Lucia people use it on their stiff knees and arthritic joints, again not medically recommended. I got that wrong ! You are right , its supposed to cure arthritis not colds . You beat me to the edit !

Believe it or not but builders and mechanics rub WD40 on themselves as a cure for arthritis . This is refuted as ineffective by the medical profession but is apparently quite a widespread practice .

Could be the flagellator.

Air in the mousebox ?

That's irrelevant, the OP states that he was stationary, you don't need to be displaying a brake when sat still If I thought it was irrelevant I wouldn't have written it. If you are moving forward in stages while waiting to enter a roundabout and either brake switch is not working then there is a possibility that this might have contributed to the situation. I was only passing on the benefit of my personal experience. I was approaching the subject from a safety point of view rather than from an entitlement to compensation perspective.

Any impact sufficient to move the bike forward a foot or so may well have caused damage to swing arm and wheel bearings, if not the frame/subframe assembly. Get it checked out and get yer claim in. Now " A little " has become " A foot or so " and being shunted has become an impact . I wasn't there but my impression is still that this is a trivial incident that is best forgotten about . I've been shunted I the past . Two days after I got my GSXR I was knocked forward by a car driver at a zebra crossing . I managed to save the bodywork with my leg that was bruised and my numberplate was dislodged . Did I make an insurance claim ? No , I just told the driver to f**k off and fixed the numberplate . It honestly never occurred to me .

Why don't you just forget about it ? Life is full of random events of much greater significance than a little tap on the back wheel . The reason we all get shafted by insurance companies is that everyone thinks they are entitled to some money if someone so much as farts in their general direction .

I'll go with the centrifugal clutch slipping .

Well it makes a refreshing change to be copying the Chinese for once.

I saw Jim Bowen on the train to Glasgow once.

So how come the starter motor AND the starter solenoid failed at the same time ? If you still have the old starter motor I'll bet that if you open it up you will find that it's full of black dust . If this happens to be the case then it was probably the reason why the motor and solenoid appeared to fail. Remove the dust and buff up the commutator plates with the finest wet and dry paper ( 2500 ) and provided the carbon brushes aren't worn away it will be fine for years. I realise that this doesn't solve the running problem but logic dictates that something you did has brought this about. As previously stated , if you meticulously retrace every step I'm sure you will get to the bottom of it.

Doesn't 25 x 27 mean outside diameter 27 mm ? 25mm diameter and 27mm piston length Aha ! Thank you .

You've lost me there

Farewell Jim .

Why not just assemble the bike , fire it up and go for a ride , if something electrical doesn't work then you'll know where these wires go . If everything works chop them off and forget about it . There's a a good chance they were never connected to anything on this particular model but it was cheaper to use the same wiring loom as models with extra equipment. Can we have a picture of the assembled bike so we can see where these connections are situated ?

These might be worth a try ( there's no picture )

Doesn't 25 x 27 mean outside diameter 27 mm ?

I agree , carefully scrape out the muck and mineralization from the grooves in the calipers and use the old seals ( hope you know which way up they go ) I did this on my GSXR and the difference was astonishing, the braking went from poor to almost dangerously good . Don't risk using the wrong size seals .

You haven't re tightened a battery lead ?

I bet this is a choke sensor issue at a wild guess but there's not much evidence to examine. I suggest that you retrace everything you did to the bike prior to the fault occurring .

Check that both the front and rear brake switches are activating the brake light first . I got shunted at a roundabout once and only realised later that I had no brake light.

There is an alternative way to stop fuel getting into the sump via the air box . Pop out the air filter and shine a torch inside and it will become clear what the problem is . There is a step inside the air box that means that any fuel will go straight down the crankcase breather instead of out of the other drain in the rear left corner. The fix is simple , extend the crankcase breather a few inches up inside the air box and job done . You'll have to find a suitable bit of tube from the scrap bin . This won't cure the source of the problem but it will save buying new oil when it happens. Talking of which, it happened to me yesterday, my bike starts spluttering and dying a hundred yards up the road so I went back and sorted it out . Before I take the carbs of I always try this first . Make sure the long drain tubes are on the float bowls , undo the drain screws and let both bowls completely empty. They should both stop flowing eventually, if not then the tap is knackered . Then while still open , switch to Prime and let more fuel flow through to wash out the debris . Close the tap to Run or Res , close the drain screws, set tap to Prime and as the bowls fill up again repeatedly whack the carbs with a rubber mallet . Works for me most of the time . Have another look in the air box to see what's going on. Good luck.

Can anyone tell me how it is that when I went NHS to have a hernia repair operation which went very well and included breakfast, dinner and tea plus extra tea and biscuits and free drugs and aftercare it cost me nothing . But when I go to the NHS dentist's to have one tooth pulled out it cost me £56 for f**k sake ! How does that work then ?

Excellent ! That turned out alright then

Keep soldiering on !