fastbob

There's no substitute for CCs !

Great looking bike but apart from seven too many Ninja stickers

A lot of work to do but very cheap

Or buy a bike with no engine and stick yours in then flog that !

As above,know when to cut your losses before you spent more on it than you would recover. Used motors on the bay starting at £200-400,pick one that has some kind of warranty,fit it and sell it(which was the plan all along?) You can then sell your engine as spares. I also looked into this option on your behalf at the weekend but it does seem a shame to quit now after having gone to so much effort already.

This is essentially the answer to your own question , see my main post.

They most certainly do ! I don't think you need to mess around with fuel substitutes , the missing fuel has either soaked into the ground or has filled the crank case. My ER5 did this and there are numerous reports of this happening on the ER5 forum. I suggest that you check the fuel tap diaphragm and replace if necessary.the main culprit will be the carb float valve needles . Even if they are new , the tiniest fragment of dirt lurking behind them will cause flooding . The best way to fix this for certain is to remove the carbs and take out the floats and needles then blow out the debris by applying an air line to the valve seats while covering the opposite one .

Can I highly recommend this book . I hope you're not in for a shock when it comes to prices as these things have become very desirable to restorers and collectors these days from what I can gather.

For your consideration .

So are we .

Just dip the key in engine oil . It doesn't actually need to be fully synthetic, not where one drop in a lock is concerned.

Regarding the valve timing situation , wouldn't it be the case that if you rotated the crank 360 degrees to TDC again then the cams would now be facing the other way ? Surely the reason that you haven't bent a valve is that you DID get it right after all ? Don't forget that with a 4 stroke there's an exhaust stroke and a compression stroke both of which pass through TDC but with the valves on any given cylinder in different positions . I would also add that when I suggested that you go the extra mile and examine the bores and ring gap I was under the mistaken impression that the barrels lifted off the crankcase. I had heard of integral cylinders but I didn't know that Triumph were following that practice. Looks a bit like penny pinching to me ( disposable engines ? )

CMSL diagrams are great for this sort of thing aren't they . Did you know that Cradley Kawasaki do a similar thing on their website for every Kawasaki ( obviously ) ?

Nothing rubs together, that's what the bearing is for , see my post with the pictures.

When you say forced the hub on do you mean that it wouldn't fit on the spindle ( axle ) or that it wouldn't go into the drum ? Can you take the wheel out and do a side by side comparison picture of both hubs ? The aforementioned spacer goes in-between the two bearings to even out the force applied by the spindle nut . Leaving it out would not be good for the bearings but it wouldn't cause the hub not to turn . I'm beginning to suspect that this isn't the right hub . Remember that CGs have been in production since 1976 in many different countries and im not including the millions of chinese rip offs. Have a look at this picture, the only part of this hub ( brake plate ) that should be touching anything is the bit I have highlighted. This should be resting on the inner , moving , part of the right hand bearing and when out of the bike the hub should spin freely in this position .

Stu is right, if the brake IS stuck that's one thing BUT there shouldn't be any movement of the hub either. Let me dig out my CG manual and have a think about it tomorrow .Might need some more pictures including some with the thing apart again.

Apology accepted ,Id rather not kiss your bottom and I'm definitely keeping my jumper on in this weather.

I looked in to that for mine Bob - those Chinese clones don't fit right - apparently the sleeve is a few mm bigger than a pukka Japanese model and would need nipping down on a lathe to fit the crankcase. Shame, oh well a simple re bore and piston it is then.

£500 ? Someone's taking the piss . You could bolt one of these on in an afternoon with a few basic tools . The CG is probably the easiest four stroke bike in the world to work on because its got no cam chain or overhead cam shaft to worry about. Alternatively you could buy a genuine Honda oversize piston and rings and find a back street engineer specializing in rebores . Just give them the barrel and the new piston and they will know what to do . They will probably charge you no more than £50.

Never used compressors or sleeves. As long as there's a reasonably smooth taper on the liners the rings will go in with care. From what I can gather from net,the Triumph barrels are integral to the upper crankcase so pistons will go in from the top so a conventional ring clamp would work.. Hyabusa barrels are separate so pistons in from below hence your use of jubilee clips? So that's pistons with con rods attached going in from the top and then the bottom ends being bolted to the crank shaft then ? So that means that the crank case has to be split . If I've got that right then " Valve stem replacement without removing head " has now become " Triumph Triple total engine rebuild " this reminds me of something...

How do you afford to do this and how do you get the time off work ? Why the title " just another ride " ? you make it sound like an everyday chore .

Here's some inspiration

Are you thinking of carrying a passenger in this sidecar ? Anyway there are plenty of big bore kits available at ridiculously low prices . Obviously they are made in China but so are YBRs for that matter so you do take a chance on the quality. If you are going to ask a 125 to haul a sidecar you will have to change the gearing and sacrifice quite a bit of speed . Have you considered how exactly you are going to attach a sidecar to a bike that doesn't have much of a frame to bolt to ? It's also worth considering changing the tyres to square profile ones so that's another expense. I also know that sidecars need to be very carefully set up to make the outfit handle safely so some form of adjustment needs to be incorporated into any design . Then there are bound to be a mass of mot regulations to look at but I don't have any idea about that . Lots to think about but an interesting idea.

It's actually got a centrifugal clutch that looks not unlike a drum brake assembly. Bob weights fly outwards upon rotation and friction pads engage with the outer drum , twist and go in other words. See pictures In my other post.

Good point .