fastbob

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/cx_500_a/79-80/picture/swinging_arm_pivot_bearing_kit_slinky_glide/

http://www.wemoto.com//index.dyn?flag=17&find=cx500

 

Beat me to it!http://i.imgur.com/DU9iuAB.png

According to the Haynes manual you can make the tool from a piece of pipe and an angle grinder. I recall using a chisel punch and a hammer now you mention it.

sounds like the float is sticking to me

 

Float sticking or dirt particles stopping the float valve needle from seating. Unfortunately you do not have a vacuum operated fuel tap so why not put a sticker on the tank that reads TURN FUEL OFF!

Try Allens Performance . They may require the part number so get a good magnifying glass.

The coolant tank may just have a small push on of flip cap nothing like the radiator cap.

 

Definitely agree,but I've always regarded the expansion tank as exactly that,i.e somewhere for surplus fluid to go if the rad boils . That said , they do have a minimum level so they can be a reservoir as well. Trouble with some bikes is that the tank is often so far away from the radiator and connected by such a thin pipe that they may be an unreliable way of maintaining the coolant level. So checking the level in the radiator as well was a smart move.

Just so you know what is actually involved I thought you might like to google this. It's the one in the middle that says fork oil and seals. It's a very impressive posting illustrated with many detailed photographs. Don't let this bad experience put you off,we all have to learn somehow. Why not get some scrap forks from a breakers and take them apart just for the experience? http://i.imgur.com/bd50pB3.png

Jolly good, carry on then.

Exactly what bike is this ? Cant see any details in post. Are you following a manual? I only ask because I can't see why you are trying to dig the seals out BEFORE you have separated the lowers from the stanchions. This is a very unusual way of doing things . Regarding fork seal retaining clips they usually consist of a wavey wire ring that does not require circlip pliers to remove. Let us know the bike and I'll check the manual.

If time is not of the essence, then go with what Meggark suggested, or indeed most of the A and reasonably sized B roads in the Boarders/Dumfries and Galloway area are good.

The little roads running right next to the motorway are a bit "meh" if I remember right.

Alternatively, head up the east coast, loads of lovely roads there too. If it comes to it, its only 40miles motorway between glasgow and edinburgh.

Ahh..the little roads right next to the motorway (m74) I.e the B7076 & B7078 were going to be a major part of my plan. I take it"meh" means not so great? I did do a bit of last years trip on these, I think featureless and deserted best describes. I kept ending up back on the M74 by mistake! Any experiences of getting around or through Manchester? That's the bit that really held me up last year .

http://i.imgur.com/vKlUax3.jpgHi all,next month I'm going on a trip to the Scottish highlands. I'm travelling from Coventry to Glasgow initially and to make things more interesting I'm leaving the gsxr in the garage and taking my ER5. I want to avoid all motorways and take things at a relaxed pace . I'm thinking Buxton,Glossop,Kendal Gretna Glasgow via the A6 , B7076 and B7078 . Does anyone have experience of this route? Or can anyone suggest some better alternatives? I think my main concern is getting through or around Greater Manchester with the least hassle.

Use the centre stand but put a plank under it to raise the bike a little bit. Get someone to push the back end down then shove something under the frame or exhaust pipes such as a breeze block with something soft on top like some magazines or old books. My personal choice is a Jamie Oliver cook book I got as a Christmas present. I don't need anyone to tell me how to burn things and then drown everything in olive oil and I prefer to eat off a plate not a plank of wood.

When I worked at M&P in Coventry a colleague used to ride to work on one of these but only on Sunday when the roads were quieter. Yours looks to be quite a good quality one compared to the awful tat we used to sell. Main fault is always the pull starter. Good luck with it.

Definitely check tyre pressures especially the front.

Leaking exhaust gasket?

Get a new one

Errr..what he said .

So it is! In which case I think you can get the steering lock off by removing the bottom yoke to reveal two countersunk screws . Err... it's a Yamaha isn't it ?

Hey everyone. So tightened kickstand and un bent lever and it seems to be ok (not getting stuck)

However..... iv noticed it mere impossible to now find N (neutral) insted of going half up from 1st I have to take it to second and keep trying a half down till it eventually finds it. I noticed this other day when I tried to pull out at lights and was confused to why i was revving and no motion.....sooo embarrassing

Is this also because of the lever being bent?? Thinking it's stopping it from clicking in properly.

A bent lever wouldn't affect you getting neutral but sometimes it just takes a bit of practice.

If it is the clutch plates may as well just replace them. 30 quid for a new set and it's fairly simple to take apart and put back together.

Or £9.99 if you're not too bothered about quality. I've built loads of CGs and I don't remember using any special tools. One thing though,don't forget to clean out the adjacent centrifugal oil filter while your in there.

I would strip it out and replace the clutch plates, not difficult and if you lean the bike right over you don't even have to drain the oil . Found these on eBay, probably shite for that money though.http://i.imgur.com/NmUHaZ0.png

Cheers for the replies. I have keys for the petrol cap and ignition, it's the steering lock and helmet lock cum seatlock that are missing. I think I'll try drilling out the helet/ seat lock, replacements are available on Ebay. I'll leave the steering lock for now, it's not locked so can ride it.

So what bike is it,Aprilia or Yamaha?

If you can get the seat lock off the bike without damaging the mechanism you could try taking it to a locksmith. If they could make a key then there is a reasonable chance it would fit the petrol filler cap . You might also be able to remove the steering lock if you remove the forks and top yolk . By the way is this bike an Aprilia or a Yamaha RS 125 ?

So how are you going to start the bike? The ignition key should open both these other locks.

Thanks again to all who responded. Its all working fine now. The only thing I did different was to put a bit of brake fluid on the pistons although I did use plenty during the assembly. Seems to be gripping and releasing as it should so I'm just going to have to keep an eye on things for a while. I seldom use the back brake anyway, not good I know but a hard habit to brake. ( sorry )

Not a floating caliper . I've been looking at what is happening with the caliper off the disk and using an old pad of similar thickness in place of the disk. It all seems to be working perfectly I.e gripping and releasing BUT eventually after about 10 or 12 pumps of the lever it gets tighter and tighter until caliper is gripping the pad. Opening the bleed nipple doesn't make it release but if I work it from side to side it comes out. Using a big screwdriver I can easily push the pistons back in ready to repeat the same bloody process all over again.