fastbob

This ones really cheap but it will take longer to arrive.http://i.imgur.com/J0oZFbV.png

Wemoto don't do one , I presume your model has a carb and not an injector. If its got a carb try this.http://i.imgur.com/5Gnp9v2.png

Its fuel injected (biggest mistake of my life getting it tbh) wish i had checked first and just stuck with a carb its the 2014 daystar vl125 has a ecu and everything just more to go wrong tbh

Oh dear. Well I do admire your honesty. I guess a bike with one cylinder and two exhaust pipes is trying too hard to be something it isn't. I'm sure you will get it straightened out , it's probably something that's been wired up wrong when it was assembled. What does that thing do behind the engine on the right hand side by the way?

I know this doesn't help but help but why does this bike have a fuel pump when the tank is directly above the carburetor?

If you removed the tank and plastics you could do the whole job with the bike lying down on its side . Alternatively you can make a small ramp out of a piece of strong board and some bricks. Put the bike on a paddock stand then shove the board under the front wheel,lift the other end of the board using leverage to raise the front wheel then insert the bricks to keep it there. Place blocks under the sump then lift the board a little more to remove the bricks. Lower the board and your front end should be raised just enough to drop out the wheel and forks. It's a good idea to loosen all bolts first. This is how I've always removed the front wheel and forks on my GSXR's as I've found using a car jack too wobbly. Mind you, on reflection it's probably not worth buying a paddock stand for such a relatively lightweight bike. You could try balancing the bike on a suitable box . I guess what you really need is a helper on hand to hold it steady.

Why have you bought a whole caliper when all you needed was a piston or more likely just an insert that probably doesn't do much anyway ? By the way I've got a 25 year old GSXR that's still on the original rear pads, I should probably use the rear brake a bit more.

Looks like an inner cup to me

I agree

Yep, that's the trouble with changing bulbs . The filament position has to be compatible with the curvature of the reflector. I tried it once and illuminated the whole countryside but created a black hole immediately in front of the bike.

Why not Gretna then A75 to Stranraer and A77 north to Greenock. Short ferry across to Dunoon or round the corner to the

Bridge.

100 miles further but scenic on good but interesting roads. Allow 4 to 5 hours Gretna to Glasgow.

Definitely consider that one , good scenery and interesting roads are why I've decided to do this on my slow bike this year.You mean the Erskine bridge I presume.

I meant Stirling not Falkirk BTW.

I love that whole route as it takes in all the hills, Peaks, Yorkshire Dales, Pennines, Scottish lowlands and Highlands, and hence great roads and views all the way, but it's a looooonnnnggg day. And because it's twisty all the way, you have to concentrate.

Sounds perfect.

Thanks Baloo, I appreciate the comments re Gretna to Moffat. I've done this journey using the M74 many times mostly on 1100cc bikes. What I should have mentioned is that this time I'm going to to be on a clapped out ER5 just for the hell of it so 60 mph might be more of an achievement than a restriction! I'm beginning to think that I might be overthinking this . Back in my younger days I just used to head north without a care and I still got to the Highlands eventually.http://i.imgur.com/zoi8eM3.png

This is what I would do to avoid the west side

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/Coventry/Fort+William/@54.166544,-2.7787468,7.83z/data=!4m71!4m70!1m60!1m1!1s0x4870b151656e22b7:0x4f660f5564f0689!2m2!1d-1.519693!2d52.406822!3m4!1m2!1d-0.9800836!2d52.7434682!3s0x4879d778cbbe3ccb:0x46801dfd457ea682!3m4!1m2!1d-0.7462355!2d52.8551074!3s0x48782d75cc2f0bff:0xc2def23f0a4dad15!3m4!1m2!1d-0.5912017!2d53.0130061!3s0x4878382607089331:0xde46d67f80b84f7c!3m4!1m2!1d-0.7581343!2d53.1552815!3s0x48784cf158752b75:0x93abacca623f9503!3m4!1m2!1d-0.760345!2d53.375537!3s0x48785577cd12f6d7:0xd5e4a81435afa6e4!3m4!1m2!1d-0.8206561!2d53.5423382!3s0x487902a22877c3bb:0x92f1c0a969456e3e!3m4!1m2!1d-1.1652195!2d53.8466225!3s0x4879391315a44b3f:0x8909f0ffc04f6093!3m4!1m2!1d-1.3302418!2d53.8995198!3s0x4879461c02f64521:0xc98d45f8047c15df!3m4!1m2!1d-1.68398!2d53.9585539!3s0x487bfd910aac07c7:0x60d9d6f19b764842!3m4!1m2!1d-1.82403!2d54.1405757!3s0x487c0692ecce1bcf:0xf5f6305dee129322!3m4!1m2!1d-1.8731039!2d54.3360667!3s0x487c19f34814ed3d:0xb2202a00e5618bf5!1m5!1m1!1s0x48893323371c031b:0xcda03ee308544821!2m2!1d-5.105218!2d56.819817!2m1!1b1!3e0

That's an interesting one , I'll keep that as a plan B. I'm looking forward to the b7076 - b7078 section . I did a bit of it last year and it's like having your own private road with the M74 just through the fence. You can still access all the M74 services but from the back.

I'm all set for my holiday in Scotland. My plan is to ride from Coventry to Fort William and beyond without using any motorways at all . I've got it fairly well sussed and I've been to Scotland many times before . Anyone got any ideas or suggestions especially the Ashbourne to Kendal stage ? I've nothing against Manchester but its very much in the way.

Bloody hell, this lot are in bit of a mood today aren't they!

OP - don't get concerned about melted engines yet.

You're doing the right thing by checking stuff out. Have you had the multi-meter on it yet?

Fair comment,in fact it is by no means a certainty that all of the oil has gone missing. There might be enough in the sump to keep things going. If the bike is CG125 based it will be push rod operated and less prone to top end damage caused by oil starvation. Probably the best idea is trailer it to a reputable mechanic and let them check it out.PS I've just had a look and it is an OHC engine so not so good because they depend on oil getting to the top end.

Put the acid in, let it stand a while, start the bike ( bump start if necessary) go for a good ride and it should be fine. Works for me , my last Yuasa lasted seven years . I know some might disagree but there you go.

Please don't be offended but you have stated what's wrong. There's no oil in it! Oil is not an optional extra , its the life blood of the engine. Without it moving parts wear out rapidly and become inefficient thus explaining the dramatic reduction in performance. Fill it up immediately and hope that lasting damage has not been done.

 

Not at all offended my man! It's just confusing as usually a bike would start even with little to no oil in, no?

I don't think it's seized as the wheels didn't lock up and as stated, still turns over and starts on a bump.

Well yes but why would you even think of starting an engine if you know there's no oil in it? That is why a retreating army destroys its vehicles by removing the sump plug and leaving them running.

Please don't be offended but you have stated what's wrong. There's no oil in it! Oil is not an optional extra , its the life blood of the engine. Without it moving parts wear out rapidly and become inefficient thus explaining the dramatic reduction in performance. Fill it up immediately and hope that lasting damage has not been done.

I believe you that there is a hole but not in the piston itself

If you look at the pic Tim posted some have an inner part which I think this is what you have damaged

If it was the piston it would be leaking fluid and not work at all

I concur,pistons are cup shaped with the bottom of the cup innermost. You have only damaged some kind of insert. If you had holed a piston you would have no brakes at all.

Why do you need to film bad driving? Its not very interesting.

Was there any reported UFO activity in the area at the time ?

Why not start it up , get up to running temperature then spray water all over it with a hosepipe to simulate heavy rain . Might help to pinpoint what's happening. I've got an ER5 which has the same engine and having read the whole post again I have to say I'm completely baffled. Its the fact that performance doesn't change that makes no sense at all. Water just doesn't cause a bike to make more noise. It's not because you unconsciously start riding differently when it rains is it ? I do alter my style of riding and if its wet and cold I have to lift my visor to stop steaming up . Visor up , more sound in my helmet and running slower thus decreasing wind noise could give the impression that the bike sounds different. The mind plays tricks.

Hi guys, so I'm changing my chain, sprockets and crush drive rubbers on my 08 ybr 125 tomorrow. I ordered a DID chain and sprockets after a bit of research. I ordered it from eBay and it says it is for my bike. The instructions are veryisleading on fitting the chain. I think Ill be okay with the fitting of the chain if it is a straight swap, but what I'm not sure on is if it is going to be the right length or not. How would I check This? Would it be as simple as removing my old chain and lining them up to see if they are the same length? Any advice will be greatly appreciated as always

Count the links

Caustic soda us how we used to do it in the olden days.

What's wrong with the baffle? Might be fixable...

Yep caustic soda BUT be careful with that stuff. I tried it once and it all shot out under pressure.Can cause burns that don't heal.

This is something that has recently started occuring with my nearly 10 year old Kawasaki KLE500. If I ride the bike in heavy rain, it sounds normal at first, then will suddenly sound weird. It's hard to describe other than the bike sounding far louder than it should be normally at a set gear. Maybe sounding a little bit more... 'rumbly' maybe? Yeah, not really a word but it's hard to describe.

The engine still works as normal, I still get the same power output out of it but the noise comes and goes as I ride and the moment the rain stops, the bike is back to normal.

Any idea what might be causing this? I just got the bike heavily redone as a few issues were creeping in due to the age of some of it's parts and the wear on them. I've also been trying to get the chance to get some oil and high temperature paint to clean up the corrosion on the pipes and protect them but I have not had the chance.

Any ideas?

There aren't bright flashes in the sky immediately before the rumbley noise occurs are there?

This bloke didn't have a problem!http://i.imgur.com/oyuIhgX.png